HammerDown Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 This is my first post and first Banshee. I just picked up a 98 Banshee for $1100 bucks. The guy I got it from put on cool heads with 19cc domes, Trinity trued and welded stock crank, Vitos pistons, Stock box with K&N filter, 310 main jets (im in vegas), TORS removed, lock up clutch etc. As stupid as this sounds I bought the bike not running. I took it home and replaced the needle/seats and cleaned the carbs out the best I could. The only way I can get the bike running is to drag it ....even this way it wont idle or start back up. When it runs it goes pretty good but dosnt feel like its tuned the right way at all obviously. After playing with the syncing, idle screws and air/fuel screws for 3 days nothing even close. Im not sure what to check on this thing but im getting pretty frustrated. New NGK's with great spark etc. What else would I need to check on this bike? Would the reeds make this issue happen? Also theres idle adjustment screws and air/fuel screws on both carbs I heard to was only supposed to be one. Any help on this would be great..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooniemon Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 This is my first post and first Banshee. I just picked up a 98 Banshee for $1100 bucks. The guy I got it from put on cool heads with 19cc domes, Trinity trued and welded stock crank, Vitos pistons, Stock box with K&N filter, 310 main jets (im in vegas), TORS removed, lock up clutch etc. As stupid as this sounds I bought the bike not running. I took it home and replaced the needle/seats and cleaned the carbs out the best I could. The only way I can get the bike running is to drag it ....even this way it wont idle or start back up. When it runs it goes pretty good but dosnt feel like its tuned the right way at all obviously. After playing with the syncing, idle screws and air/fuel screws for 3 days nothing even close. Im not sure what to check on this thing but im getting pretty frustrated. New NGK's with great spark etc. What else would I need to check on this bike? Would the reeds make this issue happen? Also theres idle adjustment screws and air/fuel screws on both carbs I heard to was only supposed to be one. Any help on this would be great..... put gas in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HammerDown Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 put gas in it Wish I could say that was funny, but it wasnt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driggs Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Check compression. When I bought mine, the only way to get it to fire up was pull it. I needed a new top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Check choke tube between both carbs is on. Pull off float bowl off and check for dirt , tank might be filthy. Check pick-up coil gap ,.017- .018 (thickness of business card. One screw on carb is slide stop ,other is air screw. X-2 on compression test. Check float level . Is correct float bowl on correct carb ? Their different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 sounds alot like you need to do a top-end rebuild. alot of 2-strokes will not kick-start when when the compression gets stupid low...but they will run when pull-started. do a compression check and let us know what you find. anything under 100 psi is gonna be needing a rebuild... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HammerDown Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 sounds alot like you need to do a top-end rebuild. alot of 2-strokes will not kick-start when when the compression gets stupid low...but they will run when pull-started. do a compression check and let us know what you find. anything under 100 psi is gonna be needing a rebuild... Guys, I appreciate your suggestions...I have a feeling in going to be spending alot of time on this forum. Can I use a regular compression tester from checker's, and also if the top end needs to be rebuilt would it still run decentley strong when it is running ? One more thing I noticed....there are 2 different carbs on this ...both mikuni but looks like different years.....the left side has the choke, idle screw and air/fuel screw......the right has an idle screw and air/fuel screw, I read that there is supposed to be only one idle screw as the other works off vaccum....this correct ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 27, 2010 Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 yea...they will still run "decently strong"....but after the rebuild you'll notice the difference. There SHOULD be idle screws on both.....the choke is what is actually works thru vacuum......there should be a small black tube between the stock carbs...if they are still stock carbs. To get a compression tester to be accurate you need to use one that has the same length tip as the spark plug AND has the shrader valve in the end of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HammerDown Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 yea...they will still run "decently strong"....but after the rebuild you'll notice the difference. There SHOULD be idle screws on both.....the choke is what is actually works thru vacuum......there should be a small black tube between the stock carbs...if they are still stock carbs. To get a compression tester to be accurate you need to use one that has the same length tip as the spark plug AND has the shrader valve in the end of it. Think I might have solved this. Theyre stock carbs and there is NO choke tube connecting the 2 or any tube connecting the 2. Leads to my next dumb question....where is the choke tube supposed to be , looks like on the insides of the carbs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 27, 2010 Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 on the in-bound side of each carb there is a nipple....its basically in the center of the carb....it is for a tube that goes from one carb to the other carb. alot of times when the carbs get pulled off for cleaning or adjustment the choke tube gets forgotten about...unless you've been burned by it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 27, 2010 Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 and there's not really a dumb question....ya you'll get a few guys that will razz you about a question or 2....but we've all been there....shit that's how we've learned some of what we know......haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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