thrill-billy85 Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 ive got a 99 man-shee. bored .020 over stock size hot rods crank tors eliminator v-force 2's fmf fatty pipes k&n filter vito's boost bottle 270 mains **135 psi (is that too low with stock head??) id like to bump the compression a bit, but still be able to run 93 if i HAD to. really im ater the improved cooling. ALSO.... this bike seemed a little hesitant getting up into the powerband..... BUT i also found out after riding that BOTH intake manifolds had cracks around 180* where the boost bottle went in..... hence it revving itself to the fuckin moon and not wanting to kill unless i pulled the choke and pinned the throttle (or putting it in gear and dumping the clutch) i havent gotten the new boots in yet, but im sure itll fix my problem wth that (which mustve happened when i was power-washing it after the ride.) MY QUESTION IS: assuming the new intake manifolds correct the problem of it revving itself out, and detonating, i wanna put a cool head on, to up the compression a TAD. what size domes should i use??? i basically want it maybe two steps higher than stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 (edited) lol, your man-shee 21's would do you fine at sea level, and 135, is actually pretty good for stock, provided you have the right tip in the tester. it should be the same length as the spark plug and have a shrade tip in the end. now that i know you are 3k elevation, go with 20's Edited July 11, 2010 by AKheathen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted July 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 lol, your man-shee 21's would do you fine at sea level, and 135, is actually pretty good for stock, provided you have the right tip in the tester. it should be the same length as the spark plug and have a shrade tip in the end. im at 2891 msl here in sw kansas. the top and bottom end have an alleged 10 hrs on the rebuild and bore. i ride in the arkansas river bed.... its all sand and little dunes and a few trails. And o long weekends ill be going to wynoka (little sahara). the tip in the compression tester was a stubby 13mil (maybe 14 cant remember) but its the same length as the NGK B8ES. maybe a touch shorter. shrade tip????? not sure what that is but its got the same thing as in a cars valve stem. i dont wanna get it too damn high comp, just enough so i know its up a little when i kick it not sure if it makes a diff for 2stroke 4-wheelers, (i does for airplanes) but the climate is very dry (hEnce riding in the arkansas river BED..... which, the first time i ever saw that river was in colorado while we were whitewater rafting down it) also, the new intake boots will fix the revving and pinging issue??? i guess ill know when they get here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Fixing the intake boots is gonna stop your problem with the "revving to the moon" issue. if they are cracked they will suck in more air and lean the hell outta your mixture....thus makin her rev higher. The power-washing your bike is not what caused your problems.....its actually your boost bottle.....they added weight of the boost bottle actually causes EXTRA force on the intakes causing pre-mature failure. Lose the boost bottle and pick up a OEM cross-over tube from one of the sponsors on here. ALSO whats the pilot jet size that you have in your carb....this may be the reason you have a slight hesitation... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Roost Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Stick some 20cc domes in it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 JEREMY: im thinking maybe the power washer hitting the shit-ass boost bottle made two already small cracks..... much much bigger, and kept me from being able to get the damn thing started for a few days (as water mustve got in too). its really te only thing i can think would have made the cracks big enough to cause this problem, cause right before i washed it, it was running ok..... not great..... ok. idled fine, but didnt have the power other shees ive ridden had. AND it was the first time since id gotten the thing id really taken it out and really RODE IT. anyways, thanks again for the advice. ive atually got the stock cross-over tube, so its def. going back on there when the new manifolds come in. ALSO.... im not sure what the pilot jets are. i know the mains are 270 with the needle all the way down. im thinking if im still not happy with things after the 20cc domes, ill go down to a 250 and 3rd clip pos. BUT maybe itll be perfect.... who the hell knows..... ahh the beauty of 2 strokes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 oh, actually, stock carbs have a REALLY bad problem with water. it will do just that- rev out real high like an air leak. when that happens, keep pulling the choke. it will come right back down, and let it out as it starts to load up. repeat untill the water steams out of the carbs and they will work perfectly fine again. while you have it apart, seal the cable entry with vaseline or grease and see what you can do about preventing any other water entry in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 gotcha on the power-washing and makin the tears larger.... running too small of a pilot can make it kinda bog out at idle. Do you have a drop in k&n filter on it or is the air-box totally removed makin it a fully exposed filter.... good catch AK....i totally forgot about the water causin the carbs to rev... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 (edited) ive never heard water will do that... good to know though. yeah it was wierd cause at first it's rev itself. then after a while it would only do i if i gave it a little bit of throttle. makes sense that it would get better after running it a bit (which it did) so i guess its a combe of water in the carbs and cracked boots. i KNOW it was sucking air thru the cracks cause i had it running and gave just a squirt of carb cleaner on the cracks and it revved up. what really sucks is when it first started doing it i kept messing wth idle screws and air fuel screws...... guess ill just put em at stock settings and go from there when te boots finally get here. they FINALLY shipped today UPS ground NC to KS..... ill be looking for them next month sometime. will the noss heads keep it thing cool enough or should i also go with a few in-line coolers and cv4 hoses. i know the HOSES dont do shit cept' look pretty... its still got the factory airbox with, i guess a PRO-FLOW (????) aluminium adapter plate for the k&n filter Edited July 13, 2010 by thrill-billy85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 ive never heard water will do that... good to know though. yeah it was wierd cause at first it's rev itself. then after a while it would only do i if i gave it a little bit of throttle. makes sense that it would get better after running it a bit (which it did) so i guess its a combe of water in the carbs and cracked boots. i KNOW it was sucking air thru the cracks cause i had it running and gave just a squirt of carb cleaner on the cracks and it revved up. what really sucks is when it first started doing it i kept messing wth idle screws and air fuel screws...... guess ill just put em at stock settings and go from there when te boots finally get here. they FINALLY shipped today UPS ground NC to KS..... ill be looking for them next month sometime. will the noss heads keep it thing cool enough or should i also go with a few in-line coolers and cv4 hoses. i know the HOSES dont do shit cept' look pretty... its still got the factory airbox with, i guess a PRO-FLOW (????) aluminium adapter plate for the k&n filter inline coolers don't do shit but look purdy also. just run good coolant and keep it jetted right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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