gofast5 Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 well im going to put my banshee back together I got some cylinders from a fellow member thanks 2sTrokeLove!!! Would you guys give the cylinders a light hone he said it had 135psi when he took it apart so it sounds pretty fresh still. I might put new rings in it for the heck of it. I normally run 40:1 on castor 927/super m/or amsoil dominator it all depends on what the dealer has. Would you guys recommend starting it at 32:1 giving it about 3 heat cycles then just takin it easy the first tank or 2 of gas then slowly stepping up the mixture back to 40:1 as the break in progress's. A really good friend of mine who raced 250b and a for a long time told me to do the heat cycles 2 or 3 times then on the 3rd time let it cool down to the point where its warm to the touch start it ride it very easily for a minute or two then open it up down a straight away turn it off and let it completely cool down? He says it seats them at hi rpm and thats the only way he'll ever break in his bikes. He says they last much longer that way. Any input is appreciated thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedSheeRida Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Break in at the same ratio your going to run and use the same oil your going to run. If the cylinders still have the cross hatch marks and its not glazed than it shouldn't need a hone. The first start up I just let it run for about 1min or 2 with the radiator cap off to make sure the coolant is moving, blip the throttle don't let the motor lug or idle. Let it cool down for 5-10mins or until cold enough to hold your hand on the jugs and pipes for 10 secs. Next start up take it out run it through a couple gears getting on it and getting off it, don't lug the engine and don't rev it out either. Run it till hot (won't take long) and let it cool down like before again. Continue that process for a couple times and run it as hard as you want. The more heat cycles the better the rings will seat. What your trying to do is get the heat to escape through the exhaust and not build in the jugs. For my first ride ill run it for about 10 mins and stop it and let it cool down, ill do this like 3-4 times during the ride and after that give her hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Break in at the same ratio your going to run and use the same oil your going to run. If the cylinders still have the cross hatch marks and its not glazed than it shouldn't need a hone. The first start up I just let it run for about 1min or 2 with the radiator cap off to make sure the coolant is moving, blip the throttle don't let the motor lug or idle. Let it cool down for 5-10mins or until cold enough to hold your hand on the jugs and pipes for 10 secs. Next start up take it out run it through a couple gears getting on it and getting off it, don't lug the engine and don't rev it out either. Run it till hot (won't take long) and let it cool down like before again. Continue that process for a couple times and run it as hard as you want. The more heat cycles the better the rings will seat. What your trying to do is get the heat to escape through the exhaust and not build in the jugs. For my first ride ill run it for about 10 mins and stop it and let it cool down, ill do this like 3-4 times during the ride and after that give her hell. thats what I do, with no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 lol....... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132836 this was posted, and discussed a day or less before your q.........just sayin..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gofast5 Posted July 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 lol....... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132836 this was posted, and discussed a day or less before your q.........just sayin..... I read that post some it didnt realy answer the question I had though it just talked about synthetic and non synthetic oils for break in which i've never even heard of flaws in using synthetics to break in a 2 stroke I have for a 4 stroke though. I just was wondering If anyone had any special way or tips in breaking theres in I've broke in dirtbikes and quads before so ill just do it how I've always done them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 oh, it's buirried in there, lol...it's cool, basically 2-3 heat cycles with the rad cap off.....not quickie heat cycles, completely hot, then cold to touch, about 1-2 hrs. after that, 2-3 proper plug chops... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 From my personal experience (2 engines), I hated the heat cycle method. I did that with 2 of my engines and could never keep compression. This last engine, I started it up, let it warm up and ride it like you stole it. That method set the rings and kept compression. Just my .02 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 From my personal experience (2 engines), I hated the heat cycle method. I did that with 2 of my engines and could never keep compression. This last engine, I started it up, let it warm up and ride it like you stole it. That method set the rings and kept compression. Just my .02 cents. hmm, are you spending too long heating them up? should only be 5 to 10min at the most to get it to operating temp. big thing is so keep from blowing the head gasket, or o-rings while they seat and loosen. the plug chops are to make sure you don't burn it up, while giing it a full load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 well, yah, that's pretty much what you do with sno-go, for best results, actually. the big thing is that the rings themself do not actually apply shit for pressure on the cylinder walls, just enough spring to keep them there. the actuall force comes from combustion pressure building behind the ring in the groove on the piston, wnich is why it is important which way the inner chamfer goes when you install rings. the smaller engines like the banshee, and tripples, have a problem with the head nuts coming loose at first, and more sensitive to jetting, in perspective. just how i see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 re ringing and "light honing" will change the piston to wall clearance. the piston clearance is very important. probably more important than most think.. you cannot just keep rining a motor over and over again the rings need the fresh PROPER hone to seat the rings.. engine break in has always been a different opinion subject but after seeing how the different methods result in engine wear and piston life i personally will only do the hard break in method anymore. it also makes more sense. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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