What 2stroke oil do you use for break in?

[James-26]

I read that synthetic oil is bad for break in. and you should only use Petroleum base oil. What 2stroke oil have/are you guys using to break in your engine and what ratio?

 

NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

[jbooker82]

I read that synthetic oil is bad for break in. and you should only use Petroleum base oil. What 2stroke oil have/are you guys using to break in your engine and what ratio?

 

NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

 

That is so not true. I broke mine in and ran the same oil later on down the road. It was synthetic. I have 185/185 psi of compression. If this is ture then why do high performance vehicles (corvett, viper, porsche) role off the assembly line with mobil 1 full synthetic oil?

[nvr2xtreme]

i use amsoil . less smoke and better friction inhibitors. check out their site here.... http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-2-cycle-oil

 

i use the dominator oil.

but for my meth motors i run klotz BeNOL... HERES THEIR SITE... http://www.klotzlube.com/products.asp?cat=4

I can hook you up on the klotz, im a dealer. Real good oil. And as u can see they have tons of 2 stroke n 4 stroke specialty oils.

[dirtydownunder]

you are correct, in a four stroke application you would not use synthetic based oils, as they dont allow for proper ring to bore wear in (as the oil is too slippery and the bore will glaze up) so you use a mineral based oil with no additives.

 

with the new car comment, they have probably been ran in on a dyno with mineral based oil, and we all know that manufacturers dont care for longevity of motors these days so they run them on full synt early.

 

i use full synthetic in my 2stroke because im going to belt the shit out of it from day one.... ( i dont run 2 strokes in)

 

performance four strokes on the other hand, ill use mineral based oil with no additives for 100 or so miles then switch it to full synth and take it to the dyno, if it where a 4poke id like to last, id run it on mineral for atleast 1000miles (3000miles is the old school run in period) then go from there.

[AKheathen]

you are correct, in a four stroke application you would not use synthetic based oils, as they dont allow for proper ring to bore wear in (as the oil is too slippery and the bore will glaze up) so you use a mineral based oil with no additives.

 

with the new car comment, they have probably been ran in on a dyno with mineral based oil, and we all know that manufacturers dont care for longevity of motors these days so they run them on full synt early.

 

i use full synthetic in my 2stroke because im going to belt the shit out of it from day one.... ( i dont run 2 strokes in)

 

performance four strokes on the other hand, ill use mineral based oil with no additives for 100 or so miles then switch it to full synth and take it to the dyno, if it where a 4poke id like to last, id run it on mineral for atleast 1000miles (3000miles is the old school run in period) then go from there.

i completely agree with most of that there. one thing left out, is that the break-in method and times/milage, are entirely dependant on what crosshatch is used. old school coarse cross hatches need the baby-it procedure for a bit simply because an enormous amount is being cut durring the initial break-in, and too much can build up and cause damage such as scoring and ring stick. now, newer, modern hones are much finer and uniform, which not only reduces ring cut, but holds at least 2x the oil for the life of the hone. the key here is, as mentioned, is to get the rings to cut and seat before they dull. the old addage that it should be 1hr for 80% and 100+ or never on the other 20% applies to the old crosshatch. there is absolutely no reason you cannot have a new topend broken in 100% well under the 1st hour. as ddu stated 4 strokes are sensitive to synthetic oils with friction modifiers because mass amounts of oil is run around and through the rings and skirt, doing just as you described. i'm not sure about the assembly line on the corvettes, since i know for sure, at least up untill a few years ago, that they all are line test run and delivered on shipping oil, which should be mineral oil with corrosion inhibitors, and they do drive them on it. my uncle used to also work at a chevy dealership, and they had him breaking them in by pulling them off the truck and rallying the piss out of them- no free-running. funny story- one truck had the nuts loose, and he hauled ass out to the main road and all the wheels started flopin around-....i also had someone take a ford back with a rod knock at 600miles, and it turned out that the dealership forgot to change the shipping oil. well, i digress- i came up with a top-end break-in method for the banshee(and other 2-strokes) mix exactly the same oil and ratio you are going to be using, do 2-3 heat cycles with the radiator cap off, and retorque the head.(do NOT rush the cycles- let it cool completely) then, go do 2-3 plug chops, or at least go through the runs. it should be 100% broken in by then. warm-up for the plug chops include the short, 4-8 second pulls, then decell longer, like 10-20 seconds, to keep blowing out any ring cutting, while not over-swelling the piston before the cyls expand. that pretty much covers all the bases on a new topend. some like to dyno break-in, and some just like to ride it hard. before the she, on sno-go motors, i would just go through the series of hard pulls, with cool-down decell, cruise in between, and it takes between 20-30 min, and you absolutely feel it kick in right when the rings seat up. so, basically, if you let the cyls cut the rings, or allow buldup to get in the way, yah, it's probably gonna end up with perminant blow-by and kill the life of the engine. oh, and the reason it is good to run synthetic oils earlier, than later, is because of compatibility issues where the conventional oil will remain behind in areas of varnish/buildup, and more importantly, the seals themself. they also need to break-in and interact with the oil, to keep seaping oil into the surface, and soak in to remain pliable. when the rubber in the seals stay in contact with one type of oil for a while, it begins to not only absorb it, but also release some of it's natural elements. incompatibility will create a barrier where it begins to run dry for a while, and could fail, or wear excessive, before accepting the new oil base.......

[dirtydownunder]

^^

[gofast5]

i use amsoil . less smoke and better friction inhibitors. check out their site here.... http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-2-cycle-oil

 

i use the dominator oil.

but for my meth motors i run klotz BeNOL... HERES THEIR SITE... http://www.klotzlube.com/products.asp?cat=4

I can hook you up on the klotz, im a dealer. Real good oil. And as u can see they have tons of 2 stroke n 4 stroke specialty oils.

 

Your a dealer are ya??? I have a feeling we could become very good friends benol and techniplate are my favorite oils hands down.

[crazycanuck]

i completely agree with most of that there. one thing left out, is that the break-in method and times/milage, are entirely dependant on what crosshatch is used. old school coarse cross hatches need the baby-it procedure for a bit simply because an enormous amount is being cut durring the initial break-in, and too much can build up and cause damage such as scoring and ring stick. now, newer, modern hones are much finer and uniform, which not only reduces ring cut, but holds at least 2x the oil for the life of the hone. the key here is, as mentioned, is to get the rings to cut and seat before they dull. the old addage that it should be 1hr for 80% and 100+ or never on the other 20% applies to the old crosshatch. there is absolutely no reason you cannot have a new topend broken in 100% well under the 1st hour. as ddu stated 4 strokes are sensitive to synthetic oils with friction modifiers because mass amounts of oil is run around and through the rings and skirt, doing just as you described. i'm not sure about the assembly line on the corvettes, since i know for sure, at least up untill a few years ago, that they all are line test run and delivered on shipping oil, which should be mineral oil with corrosion inhibitors, and they do drive them on it. my uncle used to also work at a chevy dealership, and they had him breaking them in by pulling them off the truck and rallying the piss out of them- no free-running. funny story- one truck had the nuts loose, and he hauled ass out to the main road and all the wheels started flopin around-....i also had someone take a ford back with a rod knock at 600miles, and it turned out that the dealership forgot to change the shipping oil. well, i digress- i came up with a top-end break-in method for the banshee(and other 2-strokes) mix exactly the same oil and ratio you are going to be using, do 2-3 heat cycles with the radiator cap off, and retorque the head.(do NOT rush the cycles- let it cool completely) then, go do 2-3 plug chops, or at least go through the runs. it should be 100% broken in by then. warm-up for the plug chops include the short, 4-8 second pulls, then decell longer, like 10-20 seconds, to keep blowing out any ring cutting, while not over-swelling the piston before the cyls expand. that pretty much covers all the bases on a new topend. some like to dyno break-in, and some just like to ride it hard. before the she, on sno-go motors, i would just go through the series of hard pulls, with cool-down decell, cruise in between, and it takes between 20-30 min, and you absolutely feel it kick in right when the rings seat up. so, basically, if you let the cyls cut the rings, or allow buldup to get in the way, yah, it's probably gonna end up with perminant blow-by and kill the life of the engine. oh, and the reason it is good to run synthetic oils earlier, than later, is because of compatibility issues where the conventional oil will remain behind in areas of varnish/buildup, and more importantly, the seals themself. they also need to break-in and interact with the oil, to keep seaping oil into the surface, and soak in to remain pliable. when the rubber in the seals stay in contact with one type of oil for a while, it begins to not only absorb it, but also release some of it's natural elements. incompatibility will create a barrier where it begins to run dry for a while, and could fail, or wear excessive, before accepting the new oil base.......

 

What about Nikisil ??

[06specialedition]

The day I bought my bike, I drained the stealerships gas out of it and when right to using amsoil. I ended up switching to Klotz R-50 soon after and will stay with Klotz

[t0r]

i use amsoil interceptor 2 stroke oil

[toytech]

amsoil dominator oil and I break in on that also

[James-26]

So you guys are telling me it's ok to break in a 2 stroke engine with synthetic oil?

[dirtydownunder]

many have used full synth on break in without any probs, just dont let it sit and idle for a while, always be loading it up and varying the rpms.

 

after its been warm and ridden a lil bit, let it cool over night then re tension everything. then cain it.