2004LEBanshee Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 I have been having trouble with my clutch since I last built my motor. A few years ago. My problem is the bike creeps forward when the clutch is pulled in. I have used the Clymer every time I installed the clutch. I have messed with the clutch lever adjustment and this is not it. When i first built the motor I installed a brand new cable, Easy pull lever, New hub, New billet basket, New plate, and a new FAST clutch. When I adjust the screw on the hub I did as the Clymer said and lined the point of the arm to the arrow on the top of the case. Each time I held the lever toward the front of the engine (according to the pic. it shows me pushing the lever toward the clutch side of the engine) or toward the arrow then thightend the screw till it stopped at the arrow mark. I then tighten the lock nut and adjust the cable at the clutch lever. I dont get why the clutch isnt fully releasing when the lever is pulled in. Is it possible this clutch like a little different setting? I thought about tightening the screw a half turn or so past where it wants me to? what do you think. I need help this makes launching in a drag race a pain since I have to hold the clutch brake and throttle and work them at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) The arrows are for all stock stuff. You throw in a pancake bear or fibers/steels that aren't the same thickness and the arrows might not work. I get almost all the slack out of my line the. I screw the adjuster all the way in then back it out about a 1/8 turn to give it some play. I made a video last year but it doesn't show internally how to adjust it. Just shows the top of the case and how to set the freeway on the clutch lever. If you are screwing the Phillips adjuster all the way in your bike will creep. You have to back it up around 1/8turn or a little more So it has some play. Otherwise shee will creep. Edited July 2, 2010 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 We like to run them 1/8-1/4" past the arrows torward the stator side. Feel free to call us if you have any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEBanshee Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Looking at it now it is probably about an 1/8" towards the stator. I can push it towards the arrow with my finger and it feels like there is about maybe 1/4" of spring play that will move towards the arrow. It may move slightly past the arrow. So your saying I should just screw the adjuster screw in till I feel some tension then back off 1/8 of a turn and not pay attention to where it is on the arrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Call me i will explain it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSHEE400 Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Call me i will explain it all. a lesson in customer service right there, a few years after the purchase and still willing to help kudos to you jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) I have been having trouble with my clutch since I last built my motor. A few years ago. My problem is the bike creeps forward when the clutch is pulled in. I have used the Clymer every time I installed the clutch. I have messed with the clutch lever adjustment and this is not it. When i first built the motor I installed a brand new cable, Easy pull lever, New hub, New billet basket, New plate, and a new FAST clutch. When I adjust the screw on the hub I did as the Clymer said and lined the point of the arm to the arrow on the top of the case. Each time I held the lever toward the front of the engine (according to the pic. it shows me pushing the lever toward the clutch side of the engine) or toward the arrow then thightend the screw till it stopped at the arrow mark. I then tighten the lock nut and adjust the cable at the clutch lever. I dont get why the clutch isnt fully releasing when the lever is pulled in. Is it possible this clutch like a little different setting? I thought about tightening the screw a half turn or so past where it wants me to? what do you think. I need help this makes launching in a drag race a pain since I have to hold the clutch brake and throttle and work them at the same time. what oil are you running? and is the adjuster tight and centered in the pressure plate correctly? the sticky gear saver oil wil make a clutch creap like that Edited July 2, 2010 by toytech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 So your saying I should just screw the adjuster screw in till I feel some tension then back off 1/8 of a turn and not pay attention to where it is on the arrow? Yes. But give Jeff a call so he can explain it easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEBanshee Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 I called him. He helped a bunch. I have tried belray, Honda, Maxium MTL, and now im going to try ATF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 Glad to hear. Was I right by any chance? I hope I didn't steer you in the wrong direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEBanshee Posted July 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 No, You both basicly said similar things. Hopefully I get a chance this week to take the cover off and give it a shot. Jeff also mentioned it may be my easy pull lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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