More Power From Stock Stroke

[ksidor]

I think I am about maxed out with my stock stroke banshee, but I wanted to pull as much HP from it as possible without going to a cheetah cub or something. I dyno'd at 65 HP with 41 ft. lbs or torque. This is what I have already. Let me know if you have any ideas:

 

2003 - Orange Plastic/Black Frame

 

Bolt ons:

CPI Pipes & Silencers

Cool Head - 18cc Domes

35mm Keihen Carbs

K&N Filters

Boysen Reeds

Intake Manifold Spacer

Ricky Stator Timing Plate

 

Engine:

 

.30 Bore

Wiseco Pistons w/Boost Ports

Trued and Welded Crank

+4 degrees advanced timing

Dune Port

[baker]

that dont sound like a 65 hp build to me but hey i guess i could be wrong, now i gotta get mine on a dyno if you got 65 with those mods id have to have 75. shit now im really wondering.........

[BigRed350x]

What suspension mods you got? A perfect suspension setup can help you pick up quite a bit. You could also swap over to some low-friction bearings on the transmission. You got any trans mods done yet?

[firebanshee]

Get a duneable override,put the power to the ground.Tripple port exhaust,weld up the cylinders so you can hog out the transfer ports more.

[ksidor]

What suspension mods you got? A perfect suspension setup can help you pick up quite a bit. You could also swap over to some low-friction bearings on the transmission. You got any trans mods done yet?

Nothing to the suspension yet...I have a hard time spending a ton on the suspension with no power increase. But, I have been wondering about transmission work? What do you suggest?

[AKheathen]

ok, i'm a little fuzzy on exactly what you want here. title says stock stroke, but you state that you just don't wanna step to drag cyls. you can stroke it with stock cyls-1

you can move to a drag port, which would likely have to do at least dune/drag with your current cyls on a 4mill crank, but you can step strait to stock stroke drag or somewhere in there. 2

you can pick up a little mid with a longrod crank, but it takes a tad overrev off-3

depending on which boysen dual stage reeds you have, switching up to boysen pro, vforce, or something can gain on the top.-4

moving the reed spacers to the intake side of the reeds may help on the topend, if they are not there.-5

it all depends on exactly what you want out of it. you can boost your numbers no problem and get it to an agressive drag, or you can focus on a broader, more seat-of-the-pants and technical power to the ground, like needing to ride dunes/hillshots, trail, or whatever. overriding the tranny will make it shift like a dream under full load, and there's several different options/levels to choose, based on what suits your needs. a lockup can really help more than just needing it for high hp builds. i put one on my woods/trail/hillshooter, and really noticed a difference in the hardest riding and with engagement speed on hillclimbs when i slip it. without knowing exactly what you want, and what kind of ridding, we can't really narrow it down to what will be best to shove some umph up your butt......oh, and welcome to the bhq

[87sheerips]

I think I am about maxed out with my stock stroke banshee, but I wanted to pull as much HP from it as possible without going to a cheetah cub or something. I dyno'd at 65 HP with 41 ft. lbs or torque. This is what I have already. Let me know if you have any ideas:

 

2003 - Orange Plastic/Black Frame

 

Bolt ons:

CPI Pipes & Silencers

Cool Head - 18cc Domes

35mm Keihen Carbs

K&N Filters

Boysen Reeds

Intake Manifold Spacer

Ricky Stator Timing Plate

 

Engine:

 

.30 Bore

Wiseco Pistons w/Boost Ports

Trued and Welded Crank

+4 degrees advanced timing

Dune Port

 

Sounds like a ripper already. I run basically the same setup on my 350 and it hangs with 4 mils. Id look into setup like tires and suspension and go from there... Keep the 350!

[ksidor]

ok, i'm a little fuzzy on exactly what you want here. title says stock stroke, but you state that you just don't wanna step to drag cyls. you can stroke it with stock cyls-1

you can move to a drag port, which would likely have to do at least dune/drag with your current cyls on a 4mill crank, but you can step strait to stock stroke drag or somewhere in there. 2

you can pick up a little mid with a longrod crank, but it takes a tad overrev off-3

depending on which boysen dual stage reeds you have, switching up to boysen pro, vforce, or something can gain on the top.-4

moving the reed spacers to the intake side of the reeds may help on the topend, if they are not there.-5

it all depends on exactly what you want out of it. you can boost your numbers no problem and get it to an agressive drag, or you can focus on a broader, more seat-of-the-pants and technical power to the ground, like needing to ride dunes/hillshots, trail, or whatever. overriding the tranny will make it shift like a dream under full load, and there's several different options/levels to choose, based on what suits your needs. a lockup can really help more than just needing it for high hp builds. i put one on my woods/trail/hillshooter, and really noticed a difference in the hardest riding and with engagement speed on hillclimbs when i slip it. without knowing exactly what you want, and what kind of ridding, we can't really narrow it down to what will be best to shove some umph up your butt......oh, and welcome to the bhq

 

Thanks for the input...these helped a ton. I will give a little better explanation regarding my riding:

 

I do a lot of everything, we do a ton a hillshots and trail riding, but occasionally stop by the drag hill to boost or beat down eachothers egos. My interest is basically to kick my buddies ass on the drag hill! I can adjust my riding style on holeshots and trails based on the power, but I am competing against a bunch of 4 mills. It's always a close race, and they get pissed that a stock stroke can put out as much power as I do, but I want to completely smoke em'.

 

I hope that helps. The only question I have is regarding the intake spacers, would the intake side be on the carb side of the reeds or the cylinder side? Again, thanks for all the input!

[VegasJeff]

you could drag port the cylinders and port the casses.

[AKheathen]

as far as engine, i would look into reeds and play with the timing. +4 is geneally a safe, all-round number, but you caould go either way, depending on what you want. less advance will move more topend and overrev favorable, while more advance will bring the snap from the bottom, mid, all the way up, but with less overrev. of coarse, the setting will change depending on what fuel you are running, and how close you are to minimum requirements. for example, if you are at 1500asl, 18cc, .5mm overbore, dune port, and run 112, then you have plenty of room to squeeze power with the timing, but if you bring the octane down closer, loke 100, you will not only need less timing, but, will be dangerous to go to far advanced. diferent types of burn rates, etc, so basically just play with the timing in small increments, and keep an eye on deto, which would show on a plug chop run. as far as the reed spacers- the "intake" side refers to the carb side. if you choose vf3's however, only install them on the cyl side, since they use the intake flange to hold the assy, together.

[ksidor]

as far as engine, i would look into reeds and play with the timing. +4 is geneally a safe, all-round number, but you caould go either way, depending on what you want. less advance will move more topend and overrev favorable, while more advance will bring the snap from the bottom, mid, all the way up, but with less overrev. of coarse, the setting will change depending on what fuel you are running, and how close you are to minimum requirements. for example, if you are at 1500asl, 18cc, .5mm overbore, dune port, and run 112, then you have plenty of room to squeeze power with the timing, but if you bring the octane down closer, loke 100, you will not only need less timing, but, will be dangerous to go to far advanced. diferent types of burn rates, etc, so basically just play with the timing in small increments, and keep an eye on deto, which would show on a plug chop run. as far as the reed spacers- the "intake" side refers to the carb side. if you choose vf3's however, only install them on the cyl side, since they use the intake flange to hold the assy, together.

 

 

Thanks man, I will change the spacers. I am running 110 octane fuel. So, I think I will run the timing at +5 and see where that puts me. I am also planning on having the flywheel lightened, so I can get the RPM's up faster. I am also looking to get some super lites, my tires are just toooo f-ing heavy! Otherwise, I am a little stuck, I don't think I will go with the new crank yet. Once I decide to split the case I am gonna go for it with a twister motor or something. But, I appreciate all the input, I am gonna take your advice and pick up the lockout as well.