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banshee will not fire up


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can't really tell what the pic shows, but, you are more worried about piston sidewall scratches. that's just oil there, which you should find everywhere if you are mixing right. take a look at the exhaust side, where you can see the edge of the crown. if there was a plugged jet and it ran lean, then you would see some melting on the piston at the port. likely, just plugged jets, though.

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yea sorry i forgot to add that into update from what i can see thru the intake the piston walls are smooth i tryed to feel what i could and it felt smooth no scratches or gouges i will reinspect them thru the exhaust side and try to get pics of what i can see. ill let you know more when i know more.

 

i do have one more question i noticed it was back firing when i had it running last and over heating would that have to do with a cloged jet????

Edited by Iron Cross
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i do have one more question i noticed it was back firing when i had it running last and over heating would that have to do with a cloged jet????

 

Yes, pull the carbs off one at a time, take the main jet, and pilot jet out, and clean them with aerosol carb cleaner, then clean out the passages the same way, before putting them back together, and installing them.

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Yes, pull the carbs off one at a time, take the main jet, and pilot jet out, and clean them with aerosol carb cleaner, then clean out the passages the same way, before putting them back together, and installing them.

 

the piloy jet is the one with the rubber nipple attached to the floaters isnt it????

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i checked the pistons and the walls and there is no visible scratches or gouges everything appears to be smooth and clean. i am going to clean out the carbs next and see what we have there. just glad the the pistons are ok.. wasnt looking forward to a top end tear down

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the piloy jet is the one with the rubber nipple attached to the floaters isnt it????

 

No, that's the float needle, that shuts off the gas flowing into the carbs, when the bowl gets full. The pilot jet is in a tube, right next to the main jet, and you'll need a small screwdriver to take it out. You need to buy a Clymer's manual really badly. It's the best thing for anyone with a Banshee.

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Mine sucked in a little bit of dirt and ended up ruining the top end. Which caused the ring to spin on the piston about a week after the dirt got in the carbs. Do a compression test first, but i would still be very tempted to pull the jugs off and inspect everything because you dont know what your starting compression was to relate to. Its is very basic and doesnt take that much time to drain the antifreeze, remove your carbs, head, and the two jugs. I guess it comes down to is 2-4 hours (depending how fast your are) worth $300 for a new top end?

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what r the jugs i pulled the top off where the plugs go into the motor and i noticed one side is smooth and one side is pitted but the pistons are ok. i felt around inside of the piston walls and the are smooth and there was just a little dirty oil in there and some build up on the tops of the pistons. one thing i did see was a peice of plastic in the cooling system around the pistons. so i pulled the plate off the water pump and it has almost desinigrated. so found the over heating problem.

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what r the jugs i pulled the top off where the plugs go into the motor and i noticed one side is smooth and one side is pitted but the pistons are ok. i felt around inside of the piston walls and the are smooth and there was just a little dirty oil in there and some build up on the tops of the pistons. one thing i did see was a peice of plastic in the cooling system around the pistons. so i pulled the plate off the water pump and it has almost desinigrated. so found the over heating problem.

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well i ordered my billet impeller and a 13 tooth main sprocket. so just have to wait for it all in the mail and then i will be in bussiness hopefully its been 2 weeks since i have ridden and i am getting depressed.

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