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Flywheel lightening....I DID search...I swear!


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I tried the search...for almost 45 minutes...and did not find exactly what I was looking for. Info overload!!!

 

I just need the numbers....how much off and where to cut it...

 

I know there are a bunch of people on here doing it and I appreciate that, but I want to do it my self. I have a decent machine shop and just finished milling my head so I think I can handle it.

 

I actually used to work in a shop years ago where I cut a few. It was so long ago, and at the time I wasn't really into the scene, so I forget exactly what we used to do.

 

Questions:

1) Do I really need an arbor? Can I just chuck it up by the shaft and use a dial indicator to check for true? Speaking of true....obviously that would be the surface I am cutting....not the I.D. of the flywheel...correct? I can chuck it up in a four jaw if they really run that far out. I have a taper attachment on my Southbed, but I really don't want to cut a tapered arbor for just one flywheel.

2) How much off the O.D. or finished diameter if that is easier.

3) How close to the pick up nubs? Will I be better off leaving a large radius where I stop the cut or will it matter?

4) Cut the rivet plate close to the rivets...correct?

5) Any benefit to drilling the face? I was considering mounting it in the rotary table on the mill and drilling the face. Worth the effort? Will it affect balancing if I keep the holes in a symetrical pattern?

6) In regards to balance...is it really a concern? Has anyone actually checked before and after? Has anyone actually balanced one after lightening and how did you do it?

 

For those who are curious the motor will be going in a street bike (RD400 frame, early Honda CBR wheels and forks, and a bunch of other silliness). I plan on the FINISHED bike being as close to 250 lbs as possible. Considering that this is considerably lighter than most Banshees I believe I will get a real benefit from making it as light as possible. I DO NOT want to sacrifice reliability or take the chance of it coming apart on me though.

 

To anyone responding....THANKS!! I appreciate anyone who might take the time to pass on some technical info they have spent time coming up with!!

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Out of curiusity....I just chucked the flywheel up in the lathe (3 jaw chuck) and I got less than .001" run out on both the shell and the hub (the part with the female taper that is riveted to the shell). I just tightened down on the O.D. of the part of the hub with the female taper. I do get a brief fluctuation of about .006" directly in line with the raised trigger sections.

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They handgrenade after some time...your realy best to leave it stock. I've got a lightened one that I bought before learning that. Now it's for sale. If your more than 150lbs. you'll want the weight on the flywheel to help get you started. Try searching for a post that tells how much HP you gain by shaving it.....you won't find much. Cause it's mostly an old school wives tale. Stick with stock.

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Yea I had one for a couple of rides. I took it off because I didn't like it. It might come on the pipe faster but it also falls off of it easier.

 

If you want to try it find one that some one is selling, That way you can always swap back to the factory weight.

 

I wish some one made a flywheel that was a couple more oz heavier.

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Yea I had one for a couple of rides. I took it off because I didn't like it. It might come on the pipe faster but it also falls off of it easier.

 

If you want to try it find one that some one is selling, That way you can always swap back to the factory weight.

 

I wish some one made a flywheel that was a couple more oz heavier.

 

 

yeh that would be nice :)

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