m4f1050 Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Howdy. I am due for a rebuild, what is the best option I have? I've seen a few options, like cubs and also seen sleeve/piston repair "kits" but what's the best bang for my buck? Keep in mind I would like to do it all in my garage. I already rebuilt the carbs ($28 incl. shipping eBay) and replaced all my wheel/swingarm bearings, all I need is a motor refresh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Howdy. I am due for a rebuild, what is the best option I have? I've seen a few options, like cubs and also seen sleeve/piston repair "kits" but what's the best bang for my buck? Keep in mind I would like to do it all in my garage. I already rebuilt the carbs ($28 incl. shipping eBay) and replaced all my wheel/swingarm bearings, all I need is a motor refresh... What is your current bore size? Mods? Riding style? Are you comfortable using a dremel on your cylinders? Budget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4f1050 Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) What is your current bore size? Mods? Riding style? Are you comfortable using a dremel on your cylinders? Budget? My bad, I forgot all that info!!! Stock motor, stock airbox, FMF exhaust, TORS eliminated, UNI filter. Mainly off-road (no drag, well ocassionally but with other non-drag shees.) I am comfortable using a dremel, scary thought though...lol More HP/better acceleration is definately something I would chip in a few extra bucks. Budget = no more than $500 Oh, and I want to be able to use 93 octane all day long. Edited June 2, 2010 by m4f1050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overrevtricky Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 What is your current bore size? Mods? Riding style? Are you comfortable using a dremel on your cylinders? Budget? I know everyone on here says to go through a shop for porting, but I'd love to try myself. Seems you got alot of insight into this SLORYDER?! you mind sharing some info?! to the OP: I just rebuilt mine for about $300. Bore/Hone, all new seals and some bearings, and of course some WSM slugs with a welded crank. I too was on a budget! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4f1050 Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) Addition to mods: VF 3's (I did this blind, thought the low compression was from the reeds since it had stock reeds and it's a '99 shee... Ricky Stator (200w) Here is 2 links (eBay) on what I've been looking at... Namura Std Piston rebuild kit 4MM stroker kit With this last one (4mm stroker) do I need to resleeve cylinders? Edited June 2, 2010 by m4f1050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) My bad, I forgot all that info!!! Stock motor, stock airbox, FMF exhaust, TORS eliminated, UNI filter. Mainly off-road (no drag, well ocassionally but with other non-drag shees.) I am comfortable using a dremel, scary thought though...lol More HP/better acceleration is definately something I would chip in a few extra bucks. Budget = no more than $500 Oh, and I want to be able to use 93 octane all day long. I'm assuming you need an overbore?.... Wiseco pistons, bore- $300ish Shave stock head .025"- $50 Top end gaskets- $40ish Boysen reeds-$40 ish Dremel w/ bits-$100 Mod your timing plate to give you +4 advance Port your reed cage to look like this. Make sure the pedals have 1mm of surface all around to seat on Nexy open your intake to look similar to this. You will narrow the bridge by 2mm, and raise each side of the port 3mm, and lower it 1mm. When you do this make sure you don't leave any sharp edgaes on the inside of the cylinder where the piston rides; chamfer the port. Go over the chamfer with very fine sandpaper oiled with wd-40 Next, smooth out these sharp edges at the botom of the cylinder; the transfer port tunnel entrance To look like these, even smoother if possible Finally, you need to clean up your exhaust port. This is looking through the exhaust port of a non-banshee. See how the sleeve isn't even with the aluminum? Grind the sleeve until everything's flush, like this Sand all the carbon out of the exhaust port, then go over it with a fine sand roll until it's as smooth as you can get it Follow the instructions on chamfering that I gave for the intake. This is your basic clean up port job, and really hard to mess up. These mods will REALLY bring your shee to life. And if you feel confident about your dremel skills, I can tell you hor to get another 10-15 hp out of the exhaust port. Edited June 2, 2010 by SLORYDER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alf44 Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 advance timing to plus 4 New timing plate $35 vforce 3 reeds- $219 true and weld crank-$100 and get the Vitos superstock piston kit-$210-225 I put in these kits on stock motors all the time. Im putting one in the wifes bike. The claim and have proven gains of 6-8hp with these pistons and minor mods. I sell alot of them, but you will also get people who for some reason hate them. Me personally I think there a great setup and have never had any problems with them or any Vitos parts. If you can afford to have motor ported definantly go that route. A good port job is going to run you at least $400. By going with the superstock kit it allows you to afford some other mods you can and need to do before you do the port work. Its really all about the money you have to spend and the direction you want to build your bike. Hit me up anytime for parts or to discuss further options. Pm or give me a call anytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Yeah I was going to recommend the vitos pistons, but I figured the money would be better spent on a dremel and some weiscos... true and welding the crank is definately a good idea IF you plan on splitting the cases. Then you should go ahead and buy new seals. How old is your banshee? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) I know everyone on here says to go through a shop for porting, but I'd love to try myself. Seems you got alot of insight into this SLORYDER?! you mind sharing some info?! to the OP: I just rebuilt mine for about $300. Bore/Hone, all new seals and some bearings, and of course some WSM slugs with a welded crank. I too was on a budget! I'm in the middle of a rebuild and my budget went from 600 to 1500 bucks, speed costs money, I can't take it with me when I go upstairs to live! then I went and bought tires. the wife loves my banshee Edited June 2, 2010 by toytech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4f1050 Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) Ok, so I have the following already: VForce 3's Ricky Stator (200w with timing and set +4 forgot to mention that) So basically I would need new pistons (Vito suggested, Wiseco for price,) a port job and .025" less on stock head. What's the minimum bore oversize I can go? .10? If going aftermarket/cool head what cc domes should I be looking at? Edited June 2, 2010 by m4f1050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Ok, so I have the following already: VForce 3's Ricky Stator (200w with timing and set +4 forgot to mention that) So basically I would need new pistons (Vito suggested, Wiseco for price,) a port job and .025" less on stock head. What's the minimum bore oversize I can go? .10? If going aftermarket/cool head what cc domes should I be looking at? Your weakest link right now is your compression. Also your porting. Doing the clean up port will help you more than the vitos pistons, and you will have a dremel for when you want to unleash big hp. Unless you are looking for bling, and plan on changing setups 3 or more times,lose the cool head idea IMO What bore size are you at right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4f1050 Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 (edited) You know, I am about to find out when I open her up. I called the previous owner and he said that it had pistons, but IDK, it ran like any other shee with expansion/pipe. What is the stock measurement? (I have a measuring tool I can just take heads off and check.) Edited June 2, 2010 by m4f1050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Stock bore is 64mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 (edited) If you are going to continue running that Ricky Stator, I would recomend getting a spare stator to carry with you. Sooner than later it will fail and you will be stranded and/or lose out on a riding trip. Just search Ricky Stator on here and you should find all kinds of reasons to ditch it. Edited June 3, 2010 by bansheesandrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentsoul Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 I'm assuming you need an overbore?.... Wiseco pistons, bore- $300ish Shave stock head .025"- $50 Top end gaskets- $40ish Boysen reeds-$40 ish Dremel w/ bits-$100 Mod your timing plate to give you +4 advance Port your reed cage to look like this. Make sure the pedals have 1mm of surface all around to seat on Nexy open your intake to look similar to this. You will narrow the bridge by 2mm, and raise each side of the port 3mm, and lower it 1mm. When you do this make sure you don't leave any sharp edgaes on the inside of the cylinder where the piston rides; chamfer the port. Go over the chamfer with very fine sandpaper oiled with wd-40 Next, smooth out these sharp edges at the botom of the cylinder; the transfer port tunnel entrance To look like these, even smoother if possible Finally, you need to clean up your exhaust port. This is looking through the exhaust port of a non-banshee. See how the sleeve isn't even with the aluminum? Grind the sleeve until everything's flush, like this Sand all the carbon out of the exhaust port, then go over it with a fine sand roll until it's as smooth as you can get it Follow the instructions on chamfering that I gave for the intake. This is your basic clean up port job, and really hard to mess up. These mods will REALLY bring your shee to life. And if you feel confident about your dremel skills, I can tell you hor to get another 10-15 hp out of the exhaust port. I would love kow what to do on the exhaust port! I am actually rebuilding my engine right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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