midlifecrisis Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 If a trued and welded crank has all of its components welded together, how are you to take them apart to replace a rod bearing, or is that the idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 the crank will have to be taken apart regardless by someone who knows what they are doing. welding is just extra insurance that it will stay together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 Because when a crank is trued and welded, the welds are nothing more than a tack weld that can be ground off in about 15 seconds to take the crank apart. A tack weld is all that is needed to ensure that the crank does not spread or twist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 Because when a crank is trued and welded, the welds are nothing more than a tack weld that can be ground off in about 15 seconds to take the crank apart. A tack weld is all that is needed to ensure that the crank does not spread or twist. Not sure who welds your crank, but the bird shit "tack" welds don't usually hold up. Ask anyone that's run an older hot rods crank that was "welded" from the factory. To be honest, for the cost it'll take to replace a rod on a stock crank, get a used one with good rods and bearings and retrue and weld it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 lol, yah, the term is not "trued and tacked" it is actually welded pretty deep into the webbing and pins to keep them in place, and some even add extra welding around the whole pin. they just gouge the wled out to take it apart and either replace the pin, since most rod kits come with one, or weld the gouge back in, if posible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 Not sure who welds your crank, but the bird shit "tack" welds don't usually hold up. Ask anyone that's run an older hot rods crank that was "welded" from the factory. To be honest, for the cost it'll take to replace a rod on a stock crank, get a used one with good rods and bearings and retrue and weld it. Between my bike and the other bikes I work on,I have installed at least 5 cranks from Twister and had no problems with any of them. They TIG weld them and it is not more than 3/4 of an inch long, that in my opinion is a tack weld. I would not waste my money on a used time bomb. I can get a rebuilt crank that is trued and welded for less than $350 and that is good piece of mind, I have seen cranks taken out of brand new bikes that have lees than 20 hours on them that needed to have rod kits in them because they spread and screwed things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 Between my bike and the other bikes I work on,I have installed at least 5 cranks from Twister and had no problems with any of them. They TIG weld them and it is not more than 3/4 of an inch long, that in my opinion is a tack weld. I would not waste my money on a used time bomb. I can get a rebuilt crank that is trued and welded for less than $350 and that is good piece of mind, I have seen cranks taken out of brand new bikes that have lees than 20 hours on them that needed to have rod kits in them because they spread and screwed things up. well, 3/4" weld on a 7/8" pin is a bit more than a tack weld. that would be a tack weld to hold a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" steel. tack would be one spot welded, rather than a bead. it may look small and not verry deep at first galnce, but there is quite a bit of penitration and area in the weld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 As long as it's a bead and not a little shit weld, you should be fine. I wish I had a pic of the shit welds I've seen. My bro welds the pin all around, inside and out. It is definitely not going anywhere when he gets done. I can tell you I have a new 10 mm Vitos crank for this year, I retired my old one. They do a nice weld on them out of the box and they are pretty damn true ready to run as well. VERY nice pieces of equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 With the heavy equipment that I normally work on that is considered a tack weld and as I said it takes no time to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted May 28, 2010 Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 what's up with all of the crank failures all of a sudden??? I have had 4 cranks (different motors) take a crap in the last year. 3 were bearings, and one bent rod (hydrolock.) And you know all the shit that tears up in addition to the crank. I'm checking with Titan Racing to fix mine. He hasn't gotten back to me with a price quote or ETA back to me, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebanshee Posted May 28, 2010 Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 I broke a rod on my 4mil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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