c1poweredeg Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Here is a link to where I posted some pics of the billit intake. It is nice if your running clamp on filters but if your running the stock air box it is going to be to thick. It is alread to tight of a fit just going up to larger carbs let alone running an intake that is an exta inch thick. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131184 hey..thanks for all the info man. i really apreicate it. everything is helpfull.. you wouldnt kno why the bike wouldnt stay running would you ? i have to give it just a lil throtttle in order to keep it running...there 2 adjustment screws...the one with the nut to lock it into place and theres one thats lower that screws into the the body of the carb. thats sitting flush. which one is which ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 hey..thanks for all the info man. i really apreicate it. everything is helpfull.. you wouldnt kno why the bike wouldnt stay running would you ? i have to give it just a lil throtttle in order to keep it running...there 2 adjustment screws...the one with the nut to lock it into place and theres one thats lower that screws into the the body of the carb. thats sitting flush. which one is which ???? The one on the top of the carb where the cable attaches is used to sync the carbs. That way both slides open at the same time. You dont use these to set the Idle speed. There is a scew infront of the choak lever it angles up. That is what you use to adjust the idle speed. These need to be set the same as well. Using a carb sync tool works wonders. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Never mind I see some one put lock / jam nuts on your idle speed adjustemt scews. There should be just a spring on that scew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c1poweredeg Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 Never mind I see some one put lock / jam nuts on your idle speed adjustemt scews. There should be just a spring on that scew. yea forsome reason now the bike will not start at all... check the plugs after trying to start. and they came out black , but not wet so i figured since the plugs were out. id try and do a compression test...my question is do i just screw in the Compression tester and kick the bike over. cause if thats what u do. my reading came outt too 100psi after 5 kicks and 75 at 5 kicks on the other cylinder..i might say im getting kinda dissapointed in this bike.. i rode it for only 5 min. when he dropped it off and it ran fine. now it dont wanna start and now i think i got a bad reading for compression.lol.. too bad ur not in my area i'd pay you to teach me how to work on this thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c1poweredeg Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 where you live, i am sure someone would be willing to help you. and that is low compression on the one, 100 is low but runnable. sounds like maybe it needs new rings and a hone job. im over in staten island ny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benb5241 Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 First thing I am going to tell you is to get a Clymer's Service Manual for the bike, a ton of your questions will be answered if you read through it. When you are working on these bikes, it is a must have. They are all over the internet for sale if you search. Dont pay more than 30 dollars for one. When your doing a compression test, make sure you have a good tester for one. But for your readings, kick it until it stops going up, throttle wide open, then kick it over with the tester in the other cylinder that many times also. If you really wanna do it accurately, do it a few times and get your average of each cylinder. 75psi is pushing it for something to run, so lets just hope you didn't test it right, no offense. As for it not running, since you said they are all black it just sounds like your plugs are fouled, replace them and I bet it would fire up. They could have gotten fouled if your jetting is off, as has been mentioned, which would make it hard to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c1poweredeg Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 First thing I am going to tell you is to get a Clymer's Service Manual for the bike, a ton of your questions will be answered if you read through it. When you are working on these bikes, it is a must have. They are all over the internet for sale if you search. Dont pay more than 30 dollars for one. When your doing a compression test, make sure you have a good tester for one. But for your readings, kick it until it stops going up, throttle wide open, then kick it over with the tester in the other cylinder that many times also. If you really wanna do it accurately, do it a few times and get your average of each cylinder. 75psi is pushing it for something to run, so lets just hope you didn't test it right, no offense. As for it not running, since you said they are all black it just sounds like your plugs are fouled, replace them and I bet it would fire up. They could have gotten fouled if your jetting is off, as has been mentioned, which would make it hard to start. yea thats exactly what i was doing for the compression test.. and the tester i got is my digital snap on gauge. but i'v already order my maual. and will def look into it. AGAIN THANKS ALOT FOR EVERYONE GIVING THERE SUGGESTION AND HELPFULL HINTS... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c1poweredeg Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 i have access to a parts washer. can i use the solvent inside the parts washer to clean the carbs or should i just use carb cleaner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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