new owner of a shee (problems i thnk)

[c1poweredeg]

whats up bansheehq i just picked up a 95 shee for a price i couldnt pass up, now the bike isnt in the best of shape but it runs ok i think. from what the previouse owner told me it's been bored over .30 and it's got a boost bottle and 35mm carbs on it. the problem i came across is that trying to kick it over takes a couple of tries well more than a couple. the bikes got twist throttle setup (that i hate with a passion). i noticed that on the left side carb had a some oil residue and some amber tint to it to where the right carb had none. what could cause one carb to have oil coming out of it. ?? im mechaically inclined just never really worked with carbs any suggestions or helpfull hints would greatly be apreciated. also the clear fuel lines that are near the carbs were all dissconnected does anyone know where they go or have any picstures of there setup that i can take a look at ?

[Larry's Shee]

Welcome to BHQ !! The amber residue is evaporated fuel, carb might have been leaking. X-2 on vent lines. Might want to clean carbs on at a time to avoid mixxing parts. Change trans oil, get new plugs. I would do this before changing a bunch of shit. Having as much info about your set up will help in helping you. Also get a Clymers manual.

[c1poweredeg]

here a couple of pics of the carb setup are these 35mm carbs ?? and why does one carb have the oil residue and the other doesnt ??

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[c1poweredeg]

the clear fuel lines sound like vent tubes. just hook up to any brass knob.

and 35mm carbs on a stock banshee is overkill. would be bettet with some small carbs.

ditch the boost bottle.

if it is hard to start, change the jetting. also do a compression test to see if the psi is high enough.

hey thanks for the quick reply, what is the stock bore size on a stock motor ? " HE SAID" lol.. it was bored .30 over" but you never know what people say to sell stuff so

[c1poweredeg]

Welcome to BHQ !! The amber residue is evaporated fuel, carb might have been leaking. X-2 on vent lines. Might want to clean carbs on at a time to avoid mixxing parts. Change trans oil, get new plugs. I would do this before changing a bunch of shit. Having as much info about your set up will help in helping you. Also get a Clymers manual.

thanks for the welcome. now when u say clearn the carbs. do you recomend removeing it from the bike and just do a break down cleaning or just spray the carb cleaner into the carb? ? and from what ur telling me about them clear hoses i think ima just buy new hose and replace everything on the bike. just so that i know that i got new lines.

[c1poweredeg]

also the boost bottle ? is it good to have one... and if i remove it i can just run a hose from one carb to the next ? lol.. sorry for all the nooob questions guys i'll get the hang of it soon..

[c1poweredeg]

stock bore 64mm so a .030" would have a bore of 64.75mm.

with that residue, just take the carbs off, tear them apart and clean them and maybe put in a new bowl gasket.

this might help with the hard starting.

but like what larry said, put all new fuilds into the machine, new tranny oil, new gas, new coolant. then but in new plugs.

it is worth the $30 to do this.

 

take the boost bottle off and find a stock cross over tube.

thanks for the info. and i'll be taken that bottle off. ur def. right all fluids will be changed in a couple of days. whats a decent oil for the trans and what coolant do i use ? regualar automotive coolant ? Zilla can u tell ift he carbs that i have are what he said they were ?

[midlifecrisis]

Stock carbs are 26 mm Mikunis, also if you arent a fan of the twist throttle, Ill trade you my stock thumb throttle for it? PM me if youre interested?

 

As far as oil is concerned, you are going to get a tonne of responses on which oil, premix, coolant etc.... to use, its a touchy subject! If you have one you like, use it, but most of these guys have a preference. Alot use Klotz as there premix (I use bluemarble), most use ATF or a mixture of 50/50 ATF and motor oil (preferably a synthetic) in their cases, and coolant, as Zilla said run the engineice if you want, but regular 50/50 prestone is fine as well.

[c1poweredeg]

Stock carbs are 26 mm Mikunis, also if you arent a fan of the twist throttle, Ill trade you my stock thumb throttle for it? PM me if youre interested?

 

As far as oil is concerned, you are going to get a tonne of responses on which oil, premix, coolant etc.... to use, its a touchy subject! If you have one you like, use it, but most of these guys have a preference. Alot use Klotz as there premix (I use bluemarble), most use ATF or a mixture of 50/50 ATF and motor oil (preferably a synthetic) in their cases, and coolant, as Zilla said run the engineice if you want, but regular 50/50 prestone is fine as well.

i might take you up on that offer..cause im def. not liken the twist.. how many quarts of oil do u use in the trans and in the motor oil. what kinda 2 storke oil do people usually use. the guy told me to buy yamalube... is that a good oil\gas mix ??

[ECshee]

Welcom to the site man! Enjoy the endless knowledge you'll recieve from BHQ!

 

Id go to your local dollar store, or cheap-o-mart and get yourself a few soft and hard toothbrushes, and a can or two of carb cleaner if you want those puppies to sparkle. And yes, remove them from the bike if you can/want. itll just make the job easier since your probably going to have to rejet anyway. I do agree that 35's are far too big for just a stock trails bike. What are the rest of your mods?

 

Ditch the boost bottle for a stock crossover tube..

 

For transmission fluid, if you have a local honda shop, their Honda Pro trans oili have found is cheap, and can take the abuse from a handful of rides before it needs to be changed. I switched from Bel*Ray Gear Saver oils, to this(honda pro), because of the serious price difference. if your going to be changing it regularly (for trail riding, every 4-6 rides) its not worth spending 15 a quart on oil when the honda pro is $5. For premix, ive been using Klotz Supertechniplate. Midlife is right though, its a touchy subject. Many people willl be siding with their preference. I find that supertechniplate just burn VERY clean, and smells great as its burning. you can buy a gallon of it from rmatv(rockymountainatv.com) - to which one of our fellow member is a trusted dealer for them, his name is alf44. hit him up he can get you some deals on parts. As far as coolant, prestone works just fine.

 

If you need some stock carbs(26mm), i have some for sale/trade if you need em!

Edited May 25, 2010 by ECshee

[overrevtricky]

thanks for the info. and i'll be taken that bottle off. ur def. right all fluids will be changed in a couple of days. whats a decent oil for the trans and what coolant do i use ? regualar automotive coolant ? Zilla can u tell ift he carbs that i have are what he said they were ?

 

WaterWetter from redline racing, and a gallon of generic coolant from schucks or wherever. For the price of a half gallon of engine ice you get a gallon, and still have tons of water wetter left over. I saw very similar temp drops with this compared to engine ice.

[c1poweredeg]

Welcom to the site man! Enjoy the endless knowledge you'll recieve from BHQ!

 

Id go to your local dollar store, or cheap-o-mart and get yourself a few soft and hard toothbrushes, and a can or two of carb cleaner if you want those puppies to sparkle. And yes, remove them from the bike if you can/want. itll just make the job easier since your probably going to have to rejet anyway. I do agree that 35's are far too big for just a stock trails bike. What are the rest of your mods?

 

Ditch the boost bottle for a stock crossover tube..

 

For transmission fluid, if you have a local honda shop, their Honda Pro trans oili have found is cheap, and can take the abuse from a handful of rides before it needs to be changed. I switched from Bel*Ray Gear Saver oils, to this(honda pro), because of the serious price difference. if your going to be changing it regularly (for trail riding, every 4-6 rides) its not worth spending 15 a quart on oil when the honda pro is $5. For premix, ive been using Klotz Supertechniplate. Midlife is right though, its a touchy subject. Many people willl be siding with their preference. I find that supertechniplate just burn VERY clean, and smells great as its burning. you can buy a gallon of it from rmatv(rockymountainatv.com) - to which one of our fellow member is a trusted dealer for them, his name is alf44. hit him up he can get you some deals on parts. As far as coolant, prestone works just fine.

 

If you need some stock carbs(26mm), i have some for sale/trade if you need em!

is .30 over still considered stock ? and are the 35mm. carbs too big for that bore size? and if i were to sell them how much could i get for them.

[Larry's Shee]

Now I see , residue is in the throat. Not a big deal, just clean it up, I presumed it was on outside (ie leak). Clear lines are for vents and overflow , change them if you want to spruce it up a little , not criticle. Without you or us knowing your setup , it might need those carbs. What kind of pipes do you have? Clean the carbs out , not just throat. See how it runs , if it's not to your liking THEN start changing things.

[jbooker82]

Yes your carbs are Probably 35's they could be 33's. They are diffinatly a Keihin PWK wich is a good thing. They are one of the best 2 stroke carbs. If they are 35's then they are to big for a stock port engine. It will run fine but just lack a little throttle responce. Some people will tell you to go smaller. I say port the Engine. That way you can get way more power than running a stock port with smaller carbs. If you absolutly want to go smaller I am sure you could trade your PWK35's straight across for some PWK 33's.

 

By the looks of your pics of the carbs you need new intake boots. They are the rubber pices that bolt to the cylinders. You see where the boost bottle goes in at. It looks like one is wraped with black tape. I am betting that it is split under the tape. That is what the boost bottle does. It is extra weight on the intake boots and causes them to crack.

 

If you get a carb boots get a boss billit intake. It has an internal crossover machined in it. It also lifts the carbs up so the LH carb bowl doesnt hit on the clutch arm. I run one it is a real nice pice.

 

What are you running for air filters. Just clamp on filters or an air box?

 

I would pull the carbs off and take the bowls off. Take the jets out and spray carb cleaner through all the passages just to make sure they are clean. Make sure you write down what jets and needles are in them for future referances.

 

Main Jet =

Pilot Jet =

Needle (should be 3 letters like CEL, or CGL) =

Needle clip position 1 being the top groove 5 being the bottom grove)=

Air scew # of turns out from fully seated =

 

If you trade your twist for a thumb you will need a new cable. Your twist throttle and cable will work on his carbs if he has a TORS eliminator kit on his stock carbs. If he has a TORS elimintator kit then his cable will work on your carbs. If he doesnt have a tors elimintator kit then you will both have to buy new cables.

[jbooker82]

Here is a link to where I posted some pics of the billit intake. It is nice if your running clamp on filters but if your running the stock air box it is going to be to thick. It is alread to tight of a fit just going up to larger carbs let alone running an intake that is an exta inch thick.

 

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