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Posted

i would love to try a set on my 535 as of now with the pv's it explodes out of the hole .. ( and i was told they would just slow it down..)

 

 

i am also interested in the r-2 out frame pipes!!! i'll be watching both!!.

Posted

i would love to try a set on my 535 as of now with the pv's it explodes out of the hole .. ( and i was told they would just slow it down..)

 

 

i am also interested in the r-2 out frame pipes!!! i'll be watching both!!.

Power valves are OK as long as they don't hang down so far that they put carbon in the transfers. And they open all the way.

Posted

if the transfer ports are not to tall the carbon is not an issue. also with alky carbon dosent happen ! and these motors on the good stuff..!

i do have to clean the valves from time to time. its not nearly as bad as you'd think.. i just wish the valves didnt have those lil itty bitty screws holding the tops on..

Posted

I sent a pm and got no reply i take that as a no? :shrugani: oh well, GL with the testing!

i wouldnt count it out yet. i sent gary a message when he signed up about his stickers and he never sent me anything back. im willing to bet he doesnt know how to use the PM system. he told me this is the first forum hes been on. i will try to give him a call and let him know.

Posted (edited)

With the design of the Sniper Inframe complete, we have been going over some of our design files for our OOF drag pipe that we researched around 2 years ago in an effort to determine final design parameters. I meant to post up several files, but most of the file sizes were so small that they were hard to read. I have although posted up a sister pipe to the inframe design that I like very much personally. It made a little less peak hp, but did make an additional 7 lbs. torque over the inframe version, 61 ft. lbs to be exact, on one of my 421 Cub engines on GAS! Most high end methanol 421's will make around 62 ft. lbs. These tests were done against the Shearer OOF drag pipe and CPI. The reason Im doing this is that I would like some feedback from anyone reading this on power delivery preference. Big HP at high rpm vs. decent HP with off the charts torque at a earlier rpm ...your thoughts? We appreciate any input for we want to deliver what the people want. Interactive responses are important to us, and in a way, you get to be part of the fun...Jim

A side note.....notice at 6500 rpm it makes 19 more HP than the Shearer or the CPI...not bad

 

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g215/passionre/dyno12.jpg

 

dyno12.jpg

Edited by PassionRE
Posted

Jim...

You are on the right track. Rob @ RDZ has lot of dyno numbers on his pipes, one of my questions for him was always why his pipes signed off at an earlier RPM than others (namely Shearer) and his answer was always why do you need to rev that high.

His pipes did make a few more HP and torque and at lower RPMs.

 

One day you'll need to make it to Planet Sand in Gilbert. That's where the big dogs race...but you know that.

 

Rob's game is all 60 foot. He has little motors (400cc) running 1.3 60fts in sand, TONZ of paddle...

His ET is excellent, and he holds the small motor record. Because of the amount of tire he runs, his MPH is not impressive...but his game is 60ft.

 

That is who you need to gun for to be the man.

 

I think you are spot on trying to make a pipe that may not rev as high but puts more torque out sooner...and again, for those that are following, I am absolutely praising you for your thought process and efforts.

That being said...

After it's all said and done, the best thing you can do is get two types of comparisons AFTER the dyno...cause no one races dynos at any track...LOL.

 

Spend a day at the track with two things, your pipes and others...as well as YOUR motor and another motor that wasn't built by you.

 

To truly make these pipes sell and do well, you're going to have to proove that not only do they perform on your motors...but other motors as well.

Andy from M&M was going in that direction in his suggestions, and I'm with him.

 

Please clarify something for me....

 

You or Gary mentioned 3 different initial configurations, I think one was gas pipe, alky pipe and a bigger motor pipe...is that correct?

 

That being said, am I right in saying you guys can actually customize a pipe for a rider/motor's specific needs aside from the 3 basic pipes designs? That's how I read it...just wanted to make sure I was accurate in saying that.

 

Lastly...and Jim I simply can not state this enough...and it really hits home for me.

 

Quality...make sure the welds are quality and the construction is quality. In my opinion, what makes other pipes weak/split welds/crack has alot to do with the prep work for chroming. As you know, before metal is chromed it has to be polished. I think some times polishers remove too much metal from the welds and weaken the pipe before chroming....

 

A lot of people can chrome a pipe, but when you choose your chromer (if you're going to offer it in chrome) just choose wisely....

 

Looking forward to some real world results of these pipes...

Posted

Jim...

You are on the right track. Rob @ RDZ has lot of dyno numbers on his pipes, one of my questions for him was always why his pipes signed off at an earlier RPM than others (namely Shearer) and his answer was always why do you need to rev that high.

His pipes did make a few more HP and torque and at lower RPMs.

 

One day you'll need to make it to Planet Sand in Gilbert. That's where the big dogs race...but you know that.

 

Rob's game is all 60 foot. He has little motors (400cc) running 1.3 60fts in sand, TONZ of paddle...

His ET is excellent, and he holds the small motor record. Because of the amount of tire he runs, his MPH is not impressive...but his game is 60ft.

 

That is who you need to gun for to be the man.

 

I think you are spot on trying to make a pipe that may not rev as high but puts more torque out sooner...and again, for those that are following, I am absolutely praising you for your thought process and efforts.

That being said...

After it's all said and done, the best thing you can do is get two types of comparisons AFTER the dyno...cause no one races dynos at any track...LOL.

 

Spend a day at the track with two things, your pipes and others...as well as YOUR motor and another motor that wasn't built by you.

 

To truly make these pipes sell and do well, you're going to have to proove that not only do they perform on your motors...but other motors as well.

Andy from M&M was going in that direction in his suggestions, and I'm with him.

 

Please clarify something for me....

 

You or Gary mentioned 3 different initial configurations, I think one was gas pipe, alky pipe and a bigger motor pipe...is that correct?

 

That being said, am I right in saying you guys can actually customize a pipe for a rider/motor's specific needs aside from the 3 basic pipes designs? That's how I read it...just wanted to make sure I was accurate in saying that.

 

Lastly...and Jim I simply can not state this enough...and it really hits home for me.

 

Quality...make sure the welds are quality and the construction is quality. In my opinion, what makes other pipes weak/split welds/crack has alot to do with the prep work for chroming. As you know, before metal is chromed it has to be polished. I think some times polishers remove too much metal from the welds and weaken the pipe before chroming....

 

A lot of people can chrome a pipe, but when you choose your chromer (if you're going to offer it in chrome) just choose wisely....

 

Looking forward to some real world results of these pipes...

Thanks for that input. It looks like you are on the same page as we are. But many others think different and that is why he is asking. It will show that you, me and Rob are thinking the same when we post some of our OOf drag pipes sheets. We have designed and tested several drag pipes that make peak power 800 rpm earlier than most pipes out now. Our horse-power numbers are 4% stronger than the small bore small flange OOF drag pipes that we test against. We are looking forward to showing off our products at some off the big races. The one size fits all is not our philosophy. We will offer our pipes to builders unwelded to fab and tweak and tune to get the most out of there porting configurations. We feel that most builders theory's are good if they are match up to the right pipe. !!!chrome!!! Does anybody know of a good chrome shop around the Tulsa Oklahoma area?

Posted

K.... Not sure it matters, but this has been eating me for a few days now. I thought for sure that there was already some company runnin the name "Sniper Pipes". So I started to look today and the first hit was right here on BHQ. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=113943 I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Jim....Gary........, tread lightly. Make sure there are no legal infringements before you go any further with the SNIPER name. We all know you're on to something great here, and it would just be a friggin shame for some nameless schmucks who can't sell another knock off, try to make their dollars on some one who knows the pipes, but not the legalities. Please check it out fellas. Good luck!

Posted

Jims a very smart guy and very helpful, id love to see what his pipes would do over the shearers he used to praise! Love his portwork! Cant wait to see what new ideas he comes up with! Ported both the girlfreinds and my engine!

 

PASSION RACING ENGINES FOR THE WIN!

 

 

 

Cody

Posted

K.... Not sure it matters, but this has been eating me for a few days now. I thought for sure that there was already some company runnin the name "Sniper Pipes". So I started to look today and the first hit was right here on BHQ. http://bansheehq.com...howtopic=113943 I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but Jim....Gary........, tread lightly. Make sure there are no legal infringements before you go any further with the SNIPER name. We all know you're on to something great here, and it would just be a friggin shame for some nameless schmucks who can't sell another knock off, try to make their dollars on some one who knows the pipes, but not the legalities. Please check it out fellas. Good luck!

Thanks for the concern, We can see that an on line company in Canada by the name of Splash'n Dirt was trying to market Power Pro's complete catalog under the name Sniper. We our Sniper Racing Products selling a line of pipes named Assassins. Just to be safe when ordering make sure they are Sniper In-Frame or OOF Assassins. If getting the wrong pipes happens to anyone, we will do what we have to do, so it will not continue. Even if it means changing our name to stop it. I know a little bit about two company's with same name. In our last business we were around 15 years and then a local company changed its name to the same as ours but added ( of Tulsa ) And we couldn't do any thing about it. So everybody can see why we are not going to fight over a name.

Posted

 

Lastly...and Jim I simply can not state this enough...and it really hits home for me.

 

Quality...make sure the welds are quality and the construction is quality. In my opinion, what makes other pipes weak/split welds/crack has alot to do with the prep work for chroming. As you know, before metal is chromed it has to be polished. I think some times polishers remove too much metal from the welds and weaken the pipe before chroming....

 

A lot of people can chrome a pipe, but when you choose your chromer (if you're going to offer it in chrome) just choose wisely....

 

 

I would like to echo these thoughts. I have a set of inframe and out of frame pipes from your competitor. The fitment and chrome are IMHO horrible. If you can make a pipe that runs like hell and fits like they should and the chrome actually stays on the welds, im sold for a set of each.

Posted (edited)

I would like to echo these thoughts. I have a set of inframe and out of frame pipes from your competitor. The fitment and chrome are IMHO horrible. If you can make a pipe that runs like hell and fits like they should and the chrome actually stays on the welds, im sold for a set of each.

Rest assure the quality will be there. Instead of oxy/acetelene welding, all units will be tig welded for the purest, cleanest welds. We are currently building highly accurate jigs for pipe orientation upon assembly. Machine work etc. on silencers will be top knotch.

Standard plating will be electroless nickle inside and out. Not the cheap flash plating. This plating is so hard that it can actually be machined. Pipe prep and proper etching will be done professionally. Gary is at least as anal as I am and that's saying a lot. We are trying to keep the prices down and as soon as we get bids back from our vendors, pricing info will be available. We are taking a lot of extra steps to insure quality so in the long haul the customer has made a good investment. No wham bam here ya' go stuff like most people are used to. Not only will they blow every pipe on the market away in performance, they will hold for the long haul...Jim

Edited by PassionRE
Posted

Cant wait cant wait. I want to try these out on my new build BADLY!!

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