notsosmart Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hope someone can help me get this thing running again. But what I have is a 2006 stock shee that has no spark. period. It was running yesterday but only at an idle. When I would give it some gas it would bog down and more smoke would come out of the left pipe. Thought I had a carb problem so I took them off and cleaned them up but found nothing wrong. It would fire up. But still the same thing, would not run right except at idle. So I started to check the ignition. Replaced the plugs . No change. Now all of a sudden It would not strart. No spark. WTF. Checked the plug wires. Checked the coil. Primary side 3 ohms, secondary side 5,000 ohms. Checked the kill switch. checked the key switch. Checked the pickup coil, 115 ohms.Checked the coil gap .018". Checked the stator ignition coil, 15 ohms. Checked the wiring harness, no shorts, grounds or opens. Now the only suspect was the magic box. The CDI. Well you don't want to just go out and buy a new one at $400 bucks just to find out if it is the problem. Wish I knew someone who had one that I could switch out with, but no such luck. So that's where I'm at. Can't think of anything else. Got any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madjimmax Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Hope someone can help me get this thing running again. But what I have is a 2006 stock shee that has no spark. period. It was running yesterday but only at an idle. When I would give it some gas it would bog down and more smoke would come out of the left pipe. Thought I had a carb problem so I took them off and cleaned them up but found nothing wrong. It would fire up. But still the same thing, would not run right except at idle. So I started to check the ignition. Replaced the plugs . No change. Now all of a sudden It would not strart. No spark. WTF. Checked the plug wires. Checked the coil. Primary side 3 ohms, secondary side 5,000 ohms. Checked the kill switch. checked the key switch. Checked the pickup coil, 115 ohms.Checked the coil gap .018". Checked the stator ignition coil, 15 ohms. Checked the wiring harness, no shorts, grounds or opens. Now the only suspect was the magic box. The CDI. Well you don't want to just go out and buy a new one at $400 bucks just to find out if it is the problem. Wish I knew someone who had one that I could switch out with, but no such luck. So that's where I'm at. Can't think of anything else. Got any other ideas? Is the tors still on the bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsosmart Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Is the tors still on the bike? Yes the Tors is still on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broncbob Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Un plug the tors brain and try it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsosmart Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Un plug the tors brain and try it again. Thanks, I'll give that a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madjimmax Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 That could be your problem right there. That TORS shit is for the birds they cause more problems then they're worth. You should pick up a TORS elimination kit hit up alf44 he'll get one to your door for like $60. It will include everything you'll need to do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsosmart Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 That could be your problem right there. That TORS shit is for the birds they cause more problems then they're worth. You should pick up a TORS elimination kit hit up alf44 he'll get one to your door for like $60. It will include everything you'll need to do the job. Why is it better to remove the tors unit and replace it with the kit than just unplug it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 Getting rid of all the TORS crap on top of the carbs, makes it easier to rejet the carbs, and it cleans up the bike. The TORS is nothing, but a huge expensive headache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notsosmart Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 I just unpluged the tors unit and now I have spark. Wahooo. For some reason I still can't get it to start but having spark is a big plus. Thank guys for the help. I'm still not sure why you would go to the trouble of removing the tors with with the kit if you can just unplug it. There would be no increase in performance would there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasons Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 I just unpluged the tors unit and now I have spark. Wahooo. For some reason I still can't get it to start but having spark is a big plus. Thank guys for the help. I'm still not sure why you would go to the trouble of removing the tors with with the kit if you can just unplug it. There would be no increase in performance would there? removing the tors just cleans up space and like someone else said it makes it easier to rejet or adjust the carbs if they need synced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted May 19, 2010 Report Share Posted May 19, 2010 I just unpluged the tors unit and now I have spark. Wahooo. For some reason I still can't get it to start but having spark is a big plus. Thank guys for the help. I'm still not sure why you would go to the trouble of removing the tors with with the kit if you can just unplug it. There would be no increase in performance would there? Right. Just unplug it. Save the money for other mods. Just my $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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