Just being cautious!

[jack350]

hey boys,

 

Quick update im waitin on a NOSS head 21cc, and just a bit scared to open my motor (stock never been touched)

 

for its running pretty much perfect to me. BUT its time to man up!!! Im a type of guy who has to do every thing my

 

the book ESPECIALLY if im working on my shee. So I want the guys who go by the book to give me some advice and

 

anything i should be cautious with when tearing and installing head. I know alll the basics guys but just wanna

 

know stuff out of the ordanary.

 

I aslo wanna know if i need to re-jet after installtion of cool head???

 

how to correctly do the heat cycle post installation???

 

I just dont wanna put my bike at risk for its MY LIFE

 

Thanks

 

Jack

[jbooker82]

You shouldnt need to rejet it. Your still pulling in the same amount of air and fuel. Your just compressing it more.

 

As for installation here are some tips.

 

#1 Drain pull the hoses off the front of the head, and the clutch cover. Then pull the small bolts out of the side of the jugs. That drains the coolant out of the cylinders.

 

#2 After the head is off make sure the cylinder head seaing surface is clean.

 

Take the fitting off the back of the noss head. Make sure you dont loose the o ring or bolts.

 

Grease up the o rings with vasoline / petrolium jelly. Dont use automotive grease. Petrolium jelly melts at a low temp so the excess wont float around in chuncks like wheel bearing grease will.

 

Put the o ring on a dome and set the dome over the cylinder. Do the same for the other.

 

Next put the o rings in the bottom half / shell and slide it down over the studs and domes. Make sure you have the domes lined up with the locating finger in the shell.

 

Then put the orings on the top cover and install it. Put brass / copper washers on the studs and torque the acorn nuts down in incremets using a criss cross pattern.

 

Then put the elbow in the rear hose coming from the clutch cover and bolt it back on the head. Put some teflon tape on the bolts so you dont get any coolant leaking. It is nice to be able to take this fitting off so your not having to fight the rear radiator hose while trying to keep orings in place.

 

Hook the rest of the hoses up and fill it up with coolant. Fire it up with the radiator cap off for and make sure the radiator is full.

[jack350]

thx for that great write up... do i use the same torquing specs from the banshee bible (cylmers)???

 

any suggestions on coolant??? I only want the best for my shee

 

also how to do the heat cylce correctly??

 

thx again

Edited May 19, 2010 by jack350

[madjimmax]

Yes you would use same torque specs in your book. I run engine ice as do most of the guys on here its the best coolant out there. And as far as heat cycles the only thing you have to really do is run it a couple of time as nothing needs to be broke in say like rings or bearings, but you will have to retorque after a couple of runs. I initially torque to 20 lbs and then I retorque to 22lbs after a couple of runs.

[AKheathen]

yah, allod do run engine ice for better cooling, but i really like dex-cool prestone. it's a lubricant base, and has better heat transfer than any conventional. make sure to fully flush the old stuff sitting below the drain bolts in the cylinders. 2-3 heat cycles, which means to warm it up to hot operating temp with the cap off, then letting it naturally cool untill the cyls/head are cold to the touch. then retorque the head in sequence again.