Nitros oxide

[serius4play]

So iv got a slitly modified shee, pipes, port, k&n adjust timing plate at 3 degrees+ 6in extended swing arm, .20 over one pice crank, 18 paddle paddle brats on 8in rims, runing a stock head at the moment but plan to get a cool head soon but befor i did i was wonting to add a nos kit to my bike. i wont to keep it ride-able but still have the extra power when i need it if im dragin. what kind of set ups are other people runing on there shees. would it be cheaper or/or would i gain morepower to build a stroker or add nos but also not rediculaly big to where its a sand rocket only. i wont to maintain as much ridability as i can. any sugestions?

[SAVAGE420]

Skip the nos and do a 4mill or larger.

[serius4play]

Skip the nos and do a 4mill or larger.

more reliable? what kinda gains shuld i expect from a lets say 4 mill and will spacer plates make it so my port job i have now will work with a stroker, what about heads. am i going to have to have them rechambered? or anything even if i get a cool head?

[Fastassbanshee96]

more reliable? what kinda gains shuld i expect from a lets say 4 mill and will spacer plates make it so my port job i have now will work with a stroker, what about heads. am i going to have to have them rechambered? or anything even if i get a cool head?

You will notice a huge difference with the 4mil. Not sure about the spacer plate... Everyone says not too run them. But you will need to either mill the head or get a cool head with blaster domes. But IMO go with the 4mil. I was going to do nos too but after alot of looking around I'm leaning towards the 4mil. If you do go nos I heard that boondocker makes a nice one.

[AKheathen]

have your port timings checked. the 4mill will make lots of power, but you sacrifice allot if you run a spacer, and of you don't port. you run recessed domes, not blaster domes....unless you are on a big enough bore, and running blaster pistons, lol...then you get recessed blaster domes. the strokers are more torquey by nature

[serius4play]

have your port timings checked. the 4mill will make lots of power, but you sacrifice allot if you run a spacer, and of you don't port. you run recessed domes, not blaster domes....unless you are on a big enough bore, and running blaster pistons, lol...then you get recessed blaster domes. the strokers are more torquey by nature

 

ya longer stroke=more torq makes since, just like if u make a small block stroker moter you get alot more torq.

im only at .20 over some would some wisco pro lite pistons and a cool head work with like 20cc domes? wouldnt have to use the blaster pistons then right? or because it has a 5mm longer rod an i guna have to use a special dom not the normal ones they give me? so id have to get ones that are recessed ones for only .20 over?

[fastbanshee8]

If you run the long rod stroker crank, you will need the Wiseco 795 series pistons. The wrist pin is higher on these pistons, to make up for the added length of the longer rod.

[serius4play]

If you run the long rod stroker crank, you will need the Wiseco 795 series pistons. The wrist pin is higher on these pistons, to make up for the added length of the longer rod.

 

Ok so there is a long rod stroker and a standard rod stroker? wich i better?

and iv been looking around iv found a Vito's 4mil for $539.96 plus spacer plate for $35.06

or a hot rods 4,mil for $599

and a diff hot rods one for $434 that one says it is the 5mill longer rod one that why it is cheaper then the other one because your going to have to buy the other special pistons? aaaa still to many choices. wich crank would you recomend?

[serius4play]

even found a hot rods crank for 289.95 wtf?

[serius4play]

and whats the diff between a 90 degree firing order 4mill and a 180 degree firing order crank?

[fastbanshee8]

The long rod will give you better reliability. It puts less side load on the pistons. You should really get in contact with one of the site sponsors to buy your crank, as many of the eGay cranks are cheap knock offs, that will not last. You get what you pay for.

[serius4play]

The long rod will give you better reliability. It puts less side load on the pistons. You should really get in contact with one of the site sponsors to buy your crank, as many of the eGay cranks are cheap knock offs, that will not last. You get what you pay for.

ok ya i found the info i needed on the diff between a long rod and standerd rod length kit. and hte one i found for 200 and somethin wasnt from "EGAY" surprisingly. but what is the diff between a 180 degree firing order crank and a 90 degree one? dousnt sound like a 90 degree one would be posible because it is a twin cylinder. piston shuld be all the way down when the other is all the way up or it would "cam" realy bad?

[AKheathen]

i don't think i'd mess with the 90* crank outside of drag. you would need to buy a special flywheel, stator, 2coils, etc, just to run it. just get a good quality longrod 4mill, and cut domes for standard bore. the shortrod will slightly change the port timings, and rev out quicker and higher, but, if you let your topend run real loose and/or drystarts, then the reliability issue will come into play. the 90 will probably shake at, or near idle pretty good, but it should be ballanced pretty good, actually.

[serius4play]

ok. ya i finaly found a page telling me the diff between a 90* and a 180* the howl wasted spark shit bla bla bla. ok so dont cheap out on the crank 4 mill long rod with cut domes and off that latter on i could posible save up the money to get a t rex kit to also build up and add more power but the 4 mill with stock cylinders will get me goin in the right direction as far as a good building block on the bottom end so i can upgrade my top end latter on...