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ran in to some problems today tuning the bike on methanol, i bought a set of mikuni tmx 36mm's , the bike starts and runs pretty good, a tad on the rich side on the low end but nothing too bad, runs real crisp at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, but after that just before your about to shift it coughs and just about dies, if you let off the throttle for a split second and get back on the throttle pull pretty good again, the plugs are still brand new looking clean, just the cross over strap is turning the galvanized color a darker gray to the timming is right on at 4.5 degrees advanced, do you guys think its just too rich or possibly running low on fuel in the float bowl, if its running low on fuel i will have to add a fuel pump, but i guess i can try and pressurize the tank slightly to feed a bit more fuel to the engine and see if it goes away but maybe its just rich so i will see what you guys say

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i am running a stock gas cap with all the internals removed from it and all the passageways are drilled out to 3/16ths, the fuel valve was removed and i built a billet aluminum block with 5/16ths tubes where i clamp the fuel lines directly on so there is zero restriction, then instead of a fuel valve i used the motion pro single quick disconnects as a shut off, i tested before running and if you just let the lines run into a 1 galolon measuring jug the 5/16ths fuel lines run full stream

the plug is a br9eix by ngk, the strap is a darker shade of galvanized then original and the ring around the base of the threads is perfectly clean and slightly wet looking, main jet is a .112'' or as the mikuni number said a 720, the pilot is a 30, im also running klotz super techniplate at 32:1, v force 3 reeds, port matched base, cpi inframes

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I'm gonna say that's pretty lean. You have a dual feed powerjet on those carbs I assume? Nothing wrong with those plugs per se; but they may not read the same as the "es" plugs because the plating on them may be different (I think.) They cost 3 times as much and do resist fouling better; but won't net any hp increase though.

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When they act like they die or just die after WOT and you let off the gas and let the fuel catch back up and then they act fine and start back up, that for me has been bowls running out of fuel, that can be a problem as you describe.

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When they act like they die or just die after WOT and you let off the gas and let the fuel catch back up and then they act fine and start back up, that for me has been bowls running out of fuel, that can be a problem as you describe.

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ran in to some problems today tuning the bike on methanol, i bought a set of mikuni tmx 36mm's , the bike starts and runs pretty good, a tad on the rich side on the low end but nothing too bad, runs real crisp at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, but after that just before your about to shift it coughs and just about dies, if you let off the throttle for a split second and get back on the throttle pull pretty good again, the plugs are still brand new looking clean, just the cross over strap is turning the galvanized color a darker gray to the timming is right on at 4.5 degrees advanced, do you guys think its just too rich or possibly running low on fuel in the float bowl, if its running low on fuel i will have to add a fuel pump, but i guess i can try and pressurize the tank slightly to feed a bit more fuel to the engine and see if it goes away but maybe its just rich so i will see what you guys say

i run consistant 3.17s in 200ft from tuning my carbs, for 1, i would go to a set of 38-39mm airstrykers, go to a size 52 on your pilot jet, and drill ur main jet out. set your timing to +7 degrees, and what i did on my 1st race was that i raised my needles all the way up, and if it was too fat, then id drop them, i kept dropping them until i got it lean but yet fat. and i usually run ngk spark plugs, i use a BR9ES, and if its not hot enough, go to a BR7ES.

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\i kept dropping them until i got it lean but yet fat. and i usually run ngk spark plugs, i use a BR9ES, and if its not hot enough, go to a BR7ES.

 

Lean yet fat?

 

You should never need a 7 range plug for methanol....9s' work most of the time, if not...throw an 8 in....7 is too much.

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Lean yet fat?

 

You should never need a 7 range plug for methanol....9s' work most of the time, if not...throw an 8 in....7 is too much.

thats what you think but i was at full throttle one night, i had 9s in as usual, and it was prolly 75 degrees outside, i couldnt get the alky to burn then i went to a 8, it was a little better then i went to a 7. its like my bike wouldnt run warm.

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my 4 mill cub loves fuel! I ended up running billet bowels and cutting one float off of each carb so it would not run out of fuel......

 

just some fuel for thought

 

I would also consider bumping the main and dump tube up a bit...... mines somewhere in the .120-.125 range

Edited by badassbanshee479
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yep i think thats your problem is that the dumps are not big enough you need around a 120 -125 main drill and dump. also need a powerjet the carbs DO have a power jet on them? i would also go with the cutting the one float off but you may need to make sure the float will still shut of the fuel with the alky you are using. 421's with some porting will SUCK up about as much fuel as you can give them escpecially with mikuni's/ you'd probably have to pump both mik's and keihn's. the lectrons are a lil better in the fuel department.. AND easier to jet..

 

you want to have more than enough fuel for the motor urn your pj's ALL the way out OR at least 4-5? turns out if they are clippards. just not to far some of them will turn out and fall out might check that also.

 

gap the plugs at .18 and start with a b8 bla bla bla i prefer the b8eix myself.

 

the mikuni's are VERY prone to run out of fuel on a long run just make sure you set up the lower end as lean as you can that will keep more fuel in the bowls on the run. pig rich and blowing alky out the pipes is NOT ok..

 

is the alky NEW!!! not that stuff your buddy had in the back garage?

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