Which override are you using

[atv asphalt drag racer]

If you spent all your time on pavement and/or had a BIG motor, I could see one of these Robinson trans being worth the loot.

For the average sand/dirt drag race guy with a nominal motor, they're just not cost effective.

I do understand the some sand dragger don't need a billet tranny. But the big boys use the Robinson billet 1-4 tranny.

 

Some of the hard core atv asphalt draggers that race for NHRA National Open events. Or in the huge money payouts events in the 1000's $$$.

Don't need to any problems with the tranny's. Stock cut tranny is a weak link in the motor on asphalt. Stock shift fork are the 1st to go.

Not made for override tranny's.

 

My motor is a 392cc stock stroke Cub. K&T ported.

[camatv]

if your building to win money and you consider yourself a professional weekend racer and you have the cash to spend on it why not buy a billet..

 

in a std override i LIKE that the shift forks are a weak link. i think the drum, or the shift shafts would be next adn i think that just might eat up the gears if those bent or broke ( YIKES)

 

i will always use a n down 1-5 std OR duneable trans. i like the std drag trans. i have messed up more than once on it and its still shifting fine BUT i also have thicker dogs on mine.. i had a LOT of problems trashing 2nd gear in my 10 mill i went to a 1-5 NO issue's anymore. if you dont think you need a 1-5 YOU may need to be tought HOW to use one. rember its an override you can shift it at any time. and if the gearing you like just wont pull a 2nd gear launch and 2nd almost feels a lil to short with the gearing the motor will pull. you need a 1-5 n down.

 

i wouldnt use a 1-5 std neutral they CAN jump into gear. and in my opinion is a lil dangerous compared to the n down trans.. plus its SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to just shift down after the run and shift up one time and drive back.

[okbeast]

if your building to win money and you consider yourself a professional weekend racer and you have the cash to spend on it why not buy a billet..

 

in a std override i LIKE that the shift forks are a weak link. i think the drum, or the shift shafts would be next adn i think that just might eat up the gears if those bent or broke ( YIKES)

 

i will always use a n down 1-5 std OR duneable trans. i like the std drag trans. i have messed up more than once on it and its still shifting fine BUT i also have thicker dogs on mine.. i had a LOT of problems trashing 2nd gear in my 10 mill i went to a 1-5 NO issue's anymore. if you dont think you need a 1-5 YOU may need to be tought HOW to use one. rember its an override you can shift it at any time. and if the gearing you like just wont pull a 2nd gear launch and 2nd almost feels a lil to short with the gearing the motor will pull. you need a 1-5 n down.

 

i wouldnt use a 1-5 std neutral they CAN jump into gear. and in my opinion is a lil dangerous compared to the n down trans.. plus its SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to just shift down after the run and shift up one time and drive back.

 

When are the std neutral 1-5's prone to jump into gear? I'm wanting to get one of these, due to only having 1 bike, so it gets duned, raced at the river, and raced at the track. Whenever I'm warming it up at the track I'll have it in neutral and have the clutch pulled in while cleaning it out, then put it into first to drive to the box, shift up into 2nd and then just clean it out with the clutch in. Probably not the best idea but I've been doing it for 2 years this way on the same clutch. I want the std. neutral for the times I'm duning or at the river and don't want to have to shift all the way down then back up 1 to be in 1st. Maybe I'm thinking into it too much

[dajogejr]

A properly cut std neutral should not jump into gear...mechanically.

 

However, once they're cut...they click into gear so easily, it is very easy to "bump" the shifter and hit false neutral, etc.

 

I personally have more confidence in a N down. I do a burnout/clean out in first...pull in the clutch and wrap the gas a few more times, then click up into 2nd...and I'm ready to go.

[bansheeqc]

I run 1-5 neutral down duneable override cut by WCR.

[kawiking]

wcr 1-5 nuetral down , duneable ... from F.A.S.T RACING

[okbeast]

A properly cut std neutral should not jump into gear...mechanically.

 

However, once they're cut...they click into gear so easily, it is very easy to "bump" the shifter and hit false neutral, etc.

 

I personally have more confidence in a N down. I do a burnout/clean out in first...pull in the clutch and wrap the gas a few more times, then click up into 2nd...and I'm ready to go.

 

Gotcha, I'm really not too worried about bumping the shifter and it going in, was thinking more along of the lines of just motor shake kicking it out of neutral.

[Ieat4strokes]

N down 1-5 duneable

[J-Madd]

I just changed both of my 4 mils to 2-5 n down. Bought a new tranny for one that wasn't shifting that great, and took first gear out of the other. I imagine it will leave the line better with that heavy first gear gone.

[dajogejr]

I'd bet it doesn't make enough difference on the slip or to your butt dyno.

It's just a convenience factor for 300 foot...

[camatv]

most of the ones i seen hop into 1st or second probably shook into gear thats the reason the n down has become so popular.

 

i need a 1-5 because of my weight, gear, motor tq, and tire combo's i was exploding 2nd gears within a few runs.. i did it many many times and it was very anoying...