LaegerEliminator Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 I'm wondering if any one here ever uses a "half Link" on there setup? My chain slack is right between the sweet spots, not loose enough to remove a whole link and too loose to leave it where it is now. I'm using a DID 520. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 I have never been able to find a half link for an O ring chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 I'm wondering if any one here ever uses a "half Link" on there setup? My chain slack is right between the sweet spots, not loose enough to remove a whole link and too loose to leave it where it is now. I'm using a DID 520. Thanks I would recommend making mods to your adjuster system if possible. Half links severely reduce the capacity of a chain. Certainly is the "weak link" just by design. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 I was told they don't make them for o ring chains. My cousin is using on on his outlaw 500 on a regular chain. It seems to work fine so far but I would say do what you can with the adjustment so you don't need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted April 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 Sounds good, thanks for the replies. I'll have to change my gearing setup to get it right. I'm running 15/40. Even with a brand new chain I can't quite get the sweet spot. I might try going to 16/42 and see what that does for me. When I go to St. Anthony I run 13/42 and can get the tension just perfect with another shorter chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 Sounds good, thanks for the replies. I'll have to change my gearing setup to get it right. I'm running 15/40. Even with a brand new chain I can't quite get the sweet spot. I might try going to 16/42 and see what that does for me. When I go to St. Anthony I run 13/42 and can get the tension just perfect with another shorter chain. Are you saying you cant rev it out? because going from from a 15/40 to a 16/42 will reduce low end and increase top speed or is that what you are trying to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Do you have a roundhouse or stock style swinger? If it is a stock style you can grind out the slots on the lower fork so the carrier will move a little more and gain some adjustment that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 I have a complete Laegers Pro-Trax rolling chassis. Nearly identical setup to what Duncan was winning the PDV races with except I went with Duncans 403 Eliminator motor instead of the 350 National motor. One of these days I will post up some pics. I primarily ride motocross, and occasionaly at St. Anthony. The swingarm is stock length rounds house style setup to use an LT500 rear TEAM rear axle and the rear brake caliper from a Yamaha FJ1200 street bike. The 15/40 has worked very nicely for me with my riding style. There is still a ton of top end left in it at WOT in 6th. This gives me a topspeed of 80 mph according to my GPS. I have wanted to keep it somewhat low geared for the way I ride most of the time. I figure that by going to 16/42 which is what I have on hand, that will be the closest option I can come up with. For what ever reason with the 15/40 gearing I cannot get the chain tension "just right" I end up having to run the chain pretty loose. Then when I corner real hard the chain starts to chatter on the rear sprocket. So far I haven't be able to get the chain to stretch enough to remove a full link, even with my bearing carrier rolled to the loosest setting. It must have something to do with the relationship of the motor in the chassis and the swingarm pivot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 just buy a one tooth bigger or smaller rear sprocket. sounds like you need to go roundhouse carrier and do away with the lame stock stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted April 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Thanks Loco....but did you read my last post? I have a complete Laeger's rolling chassis....this includes the stock length swinger with round house style carrier. It runs an LT500 axle. The only thing stock on my bike is the plastic, gas tank, and wiring harness, everything else is Laeger's, Duncan, aftermarket or hand made. I'll try the gearing change and see what happens. I've never posted any pictures on hear. give me a little input on how to post pics and I'll try to get them up soon. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David DeLeon Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I use half links all the time, since the early 90s The problem is they are not available for oring chains. You can only get them for non oring chain. I have a Laegers frame banshee and a 93 stock frame. I have half links in both. I think its the gearing you are running. I ran 15 / 40 for years and ran into the adjustment issue. Replace the chain with non oring and install the half link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I've used a non oring half link in an o ring chain in a pinch before. But as previously stated, it is the weak link and will be the first thing to break. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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