blue angel Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 So at the end of last season my bike would not idle at all, over the winter we tore down the bike and replaced all the top end gaskets and I got a set of carbs with the TORS removed and now the bike idles....just extremely high. it does not matter if I bottom out the idle screw or back it all they way out, it screams until you pull the choke lever out. not sure what to do from here. modifications = fmf fatty's w/ turbine core silencers, +4 degree key, Vitos Tors removal w/ twist throttle, K&N pod filters (airbox removed). When I bought the carbs we put brand new 27.5 pilots and 280 mains in them. elevation = 784 ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 Sounds lean. You need to do a leakdown test to check for air leaks. If it pressure tests OK, then you need to look at your carbs, specifically thepassages for the idle circuit to see if they are plugged and not allowing fuel through. Also make sure you have the correct float bowl on the correct carb, the left is different from the right, and that you have the choke tube in place between the carbs. Once all of this is correct, you need to adjust your idle MIXTURE screws. Usually a TORS problem won't make it run crappy, it won't run at all. If it runs crappy, and it is a 97 or newer, it is a park brake rev limiter problem, which is a totally different circuit and not connected to the TORS in any way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue angel Posted April 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 Sounds lean. You need to do a leakdown test to check for air leaks. If it pressure tests OK, then you need to look at your carbs, specifically thepassages for the idle circuit to see if they are plugged and not allowing fuel through. Also make sure you have the correct float bowl on the correct carb, the left is different from the right, and that you have the choke tube in place between the carbs. Once all of this is correct, you need to adjust your idle MIXTURE screws. Usually a TORS problem won't make it run crappy, it won't run at all. If it runs crappy, and it is a 97 or newer, it is a park brake rev limiter problem, which is a totally different circuit and not connected to the TORS in any way. I did a leakdown test before it was put back together and it had a slight leak at the brand new gaskets I put on, I have since sprayed them down with permatex gasket sealant and it passed the test. when we took the carbs apart we did it one side at a time to make sure crossing of parts would not happen....I will double check though because I am not the original owner. I know the choke tube is in place because I just put all new hoses on the carbs and that was one of them. what all started this teardown was the bike would not start and if it did start it would bog right out after 5 or so seconds, after removing the TORS the bike starts first kick.....it just idles extremely high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1026 Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 parking brake rev limiter ?????? what where and how ??????explain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 So at the end of last season my bike would not idle at all, over the winter we tore down the bike and replaced all the top end gaskets and I got a set of carbs with the TORS removed and now the bike idles....just extremely high. it does not matter if I bottom out the idle screw or back it all they way out, it screams until you pull the choke lever out. not sure what to do from here. modifications = fmf fatty's w/ turbine core silencers, +4 degree key, Vitos Tors removal w/ twist throttle, K&N pod filters (airbox removed). When I bought the carbs we put brand new 27.5 pilots and 280 mains in them. elevation = 784 ft. Start with your air mixture screws. They should be open the same amount of turns, which should be 1.5-2 turns. Once you make sure they are the same, and if it's still idling too high, turn each one in 1/4 of a turn, and allow the motor some time to adjust to the changes. Keep doing this until it idles where you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 first thing you need to do is a proper carb sync to the letter.....without the tool. i would almost bet money that you will find the cables too tight. other than that, you can have moisture in there, which will do the same thing as an airleak. if the choke is doing anything, then you know you have the bowls on right, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue angel Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 first thing you need to do is a proper carb sync to the letter.....without the tool. i would almost bet money that you will find the cables too tight. other than that, you can have moisture in there, which will do the same thing as an airleak. if the choke is doing anything, then you know you have the bowls on right, too. We did sync them (without the tool) before we even tried starting the bike because they were off by a mile when I bought them. I will have to check the cable tension, I never thought of that. The choke is working...it settles the idle down when you pull it out. I just went out to the garage to get some stuff and noticed a large puddle under the overflow tubes, that was happening with the old carbs as well but nowhere near as much as I have now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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