blowit Posted April 15, 2010 Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 I heard it was ok to reuse the head gasket and base gaskets? Good idea? Cody Head gasket is usually fine. Base gaskets will be your call. usually I will just replace them because it is not worth the hassle. If they have 5 min on them, that might be different. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 Jims base gasket was a one piece and a different material then normal if i recall. Spoke with him and he said head gasket is cool, and base gasket should be fine as well. He said if it looks like the piston started to seize and there aluminum on the bore to use some meratic acid to boil it off. Said i shouldnt need to hone but if i do a degalzing ball hone should be fine, run it at medium speed and a couple quick passes. Ill keep ya updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 i never reuse a head gasket that has been through a few heat cycles......especially hot enough to melt a piston, lol. it's your call to risk it over a $12 gasket. and, i would use a fine ball if possible. i would have really pulled the head before ordering anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 well silver lakes this next weekend and im not at home with my quad, so i did what i had to do. I would have tore it down first and checked everything but im not where my quad is till this weekend and if i wanna go to silver i have to have all bases covered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 okay update, good news is the top ring was just seized, cylinder looks fine. Bad news is i had a air leak out the crank seal on the stator side, pulled the flywheel off and found a suprise on my brand new hot rods 4 mill crank. Will post pictures within the hour, its got me scared because i had a crank brake right at the flywheel side bearing, just before this rebuild (because of that after 2 hours on that rebuild). Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Pistons and head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Heres what happened before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Now this one is worth looking into. A crank breaking where yours did is very unlikely. I would highly suspect a severe imbalance in the flywheel or a bore misalignment which will cause excessive radial loading on the shaft. I am trying to think of some tests you could do at home but I think at the very least, you need to run down and get a mag base and .001 indicator and start there testing for runout in the crank. What a lot of people do on crank welding is true them, then weld them, then ship them. It is imperative to check after welding to test for warping which can cause a lot of excess stress on the crank. I think you should nail down this issue before moving forward. I am highly suspecting case issues but that flywheel is also suspect. You will want to put your indicator on the OD of the fly wheel as well as the front when it is mounted up and test for axial and radial runout. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Thing is this is a different flywheel, and a different crank then the first time it happened two hours after the rebuild. This crank came straight from hot rods welded. Flywheel is in good shape from a member on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 first thing that came to mind is the same as blowit. imballance. even a loose, or improperly seated flywheel can tear a crank apart. so what happened there? looks like the flywheel came loose and shot the key around. you are going to need to dress that up square, and deburre/degauled, to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 flywheel was perfect, brand new key, nut, and flywheel from member, key is perfect not sheared or anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 well, where did the gouges come from? stuck to the flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 (edited) you tell me lol, thats the funny thing, both keyway grooves are pefect, but all those missing chunks are on the shaft and there is some marks in the flywheel to in equal spots but not as bad. I really dont know what to do, most likely looks like ill be getting a new crank (son of a bitch) maybe some cases, and probably another new flywheel. Bottom line this will be 3rd rebuild in the last year and only a total of like 3 hours. First rebuild rode for two hours crank broke 2nd rebuild you see here 3rd rebuild better stay the fuck together or you guys will be seeing another part out soon. Cody Yay the edit buttons back flywheel also came off nice, was on there good, but wasnt a bitch taking it off. Going to call jim tonight and see what he has to say! Edited April 19, 2010 by papa_smurf49319 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 After looking more at your pics, I still cannot determine what would cause the damage on the shaft taper. Did you use an impact on the flywheel? I think regardless of what is new, you need to go through things with a fine tooth comb. Just because a crank is new or welded by hotrods does not mean it did not slip through quality control. So you developed a crank seal leak in a very short amount of time. Is the bearing toast? Does it have a lot of movement on the outer race? It is very possible if something is way out of balance to over load the bearing and cause a leak. OTOH, you should really feel that in the bars! Here is a test I would like you to do. Assemble the cases dry with no trans or crank. Torque all the bottom 6mm bolts to the light side of tolerance and have the bearing bores inspected. for roundness. Any more eccentricity than .001" could be concerning. Surely you know someone at a machine shop or something. It would also be wise to set the crank in the bottom case half and try to spin each race. None should spin free with just the weight of the crank. If one does, apply a little pressure to the crank and see if it will seat. If not, rotate just the crank and see if it changes. I am looking for a phase or balance problem with the crank. An out of true crank can certainly cause all of this. Remember, don't rule anything out because it is new. Even better would just be to get the crank to someone that is competent in checking is for true. IMO, I would not buy or build anything until the cause of the failure is known. I am suspecting the crank at this point but the tests I mentioned above are a very good idea. OR, you could just throw parts and dollars at it... B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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