labbe001 Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Hello everyone, i'm new to the whole banshee world....which explains why this is my first post....i recently purchased a 2001 banshee from a buddy of mine...he basically quit riding it and sat it under his shed where its been for the last two years....when i got it, i changed all fluids and checked everything over before attempting to fire it up....i've finally gott'n the kinks worked out except for one little problem....the right side cylinder does not kick in until about 1/4 throttle.....here's what i've done so far in terms of trying to diagnose the problem....checked the compression (good), checked the spark (good), removed both carbs and gave them a good cleaning and adjusted back to factory settings, checked the reeds (good), adjusted the idle (when adjusting the idle for the left, it revs and de-revs like it should..right side, there is no change noticed unless i rev past 1/4 throttle....then when i let off, right side cylinder shuts off again), i swapped spark plug caps (same problem existed w/ no change)...i'm almost convinced it's the tors module for the right side that is malfunctioning....i'm already planning on removing these but for diagnostic purposes wanted to know if the two tors are interchagable..in other words, could i just swap them around to see if the left cylinder stops firing? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD1026 Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 im sure they can just have to make sure you bont kink the cable. as long as the slides move the same its worth a shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 The TORS is designed to cut spark if it detects the throttle is released and the slides are not closed... HOWEVER; The banshee only has a single coil, and both plugs fire at the same time thus if the TORS was causing you to lose spark it would affect both cylinders. Although you should remove the TORS I don't think this is a TORS issue. "(when adjusting the idle for the left, it revs and de-revs like it should..right side, there is no change noticed unless i rev past 1/4 throttle....then when i let off, right side cylinder shuts off again)," Your idle knobs/screws should be set the same on both sides for the most part. You also should only adjust the idle with the engine warmed up. Lastly it takes a few seconds for idle adjustments to kick in. Perhaps I misunderstood the last sentence but how are you adjusting the idle at 1/4 throttle? your throttle should be closed when adjusting the idle.... 1) did you put new plugs in it? Try changing the plugs or swapping the cylinders they are in to see if the problem moves. 2) have you cleaned your carbs? Especially the pilot jet, as it's responsible for idle to 1/4 throttle. 3) are your carbs synced?? When you open the throttle BOTH slides need to move at exactly the same time, theres a nut on top of the carbs/tors for adjusting this. There's also a tool available but you can do it by sight/feel.. Have a helper slowly open the throttle to verify that they're both moving at the same time then snap the throttle open a couple times you should hear ONE click when the slides close not two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidonmars Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 yupp sounds like the carbs aren't synched Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labbe001 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 The TORS is designed to cut spark if it detects the throttle is released and the slides are not closed... HOWEVER; The banshee only has a single coil, and both plugs fire at the same time thus if the TORS was causing you to lose spark it would affect both cylinders. Although you should remove the TORS I don't think this is a TORS issue. So are you saying that if one tors is malfunctioning that it wouldn't cause that cylinder to fire...rather it would cut the spark to the single coil thus shutting both cylinders down? "(when adjusting the idle for the left, it revs and de-revs like it should..right side, there is no change noticed unless i rev past 1/4 throttle....then when i let off, right side cylinder shuts off again)," Your idle knobs/screws should be set the same on both sides for the most part. You also should only adjust the idle with the engine warmed up. Lastly it takes a few seconds for idle adjustments to kick in. Perhaps I misunderstood the last sentence but how are you adjusting the idle at 1/4 throttle? your throttle should be closed when adjusting the idle.... my fault for not being clear......here's what i tried....throttle completely closed i adjust the left cylinder....it revs and de-revs like it should.....then on the right side, when i adjust it, there is no change b/c its not firing at closed throttle.....for instance, if i idle the right side down at closed throttle wait a second and the rev it, the cylinder kicks on then dies....then i'll idle it up at closed throttle w/ no change, wait a second then rev it and it fires up but idles WAY too high and stays firing until i idle it back down to a certain point then it dies...basically, the right side cylinder will not idle at all at lower than 1/4 throttle or if i have the idle adjusted really high 1) did you put new plugs in it? Try changing the plugs or swapping the cylinders they are in to see if the problem moves. multiple times (using NGK BR8ES...had B7ES when i got it) 2) have you cleaned your carbs? Especially the pilot jet, as it's responsible for idle to 1/4 throttle. I cleaned the right side carb twice....it initially would not fire at all and fuel was dumping out of the overflow...cleaned it really well and yes, the pilot jet was fairly clogged...now it's squeeky clean and you can see light through it 3) are your carbs synced?? When you open the throttle BOTH slides need to move at exactly the same time, theres a nut on top of the carbs/tors for adjusting this. There's also a tool available but you can do it by sight/feel.. Have a helper slowly open the throttle to verify that they're both moving at the same time then snap the throttle open a couple times you should hear ONE click when the slides close not two. i will try this but i'm fairly certain the slides are synced as i inly hear one click when i snap the throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 "my fault for not being clear......here's what i tried....throttle completely closed i adjust the left cylinder....it revs and de-revs like it should.....then on the right side, when i adjust it, there is no change b/c its not firing at closed throttle.....for instance, if i idle the right side down at closed throttle wait a second and the rev it, the cylinder kicks on then dies....then i'll idle it up at closed throttle w/ no change, wait a second then rev it and it fires up but idles WAY too high and stays firing until i idle it back down to a certain point then it dies...basically, the right side cylinder will not idle at all at lower than 1/4 throttle or if i have the idle adjusted really high" Hmmm this sounds a lot like a problem I had, my left bank was running fine, the right bank I could never get adjusted right.. I had a fuel elbow that was really loose on the carb to the point it would pop out sometimes and pour fuel on top of the case. Anyways despite trying to patch that up I ended up buying a set of carbs with the TORS removed since the elbow wasn't a servicable part. Once I got rid of the TORS the right side behaved exactly like the left, the carbs were easy to adjust.. There are a few threads on here about how much of a bitch it is to adjust your carbs with the TORS installed, and getting it to mine to properly was also a big pain in the butt. Before I removed the TORS mine was idled really high to keep it running it would idle sometimes then other times die randomly.. It probably isn't the TORS preventing the cylinder from firing its more like the inability to adjust the carbs because of the TORS System. You can eliminate those bulky boxes up there with a TORS removal kit or buy a set of carbs already set up without it. If everything is synched, you've switched plug wires, and that right hand slide isn't sticking, and the carbs are clean you can probably blame the TORS box up there. You might check just to see that the right hand slide isnt sticking, when you rev it up. TORS gets blamed for tons of stuff hehe but for the most part only good can come from getting rid of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Sounds to me like it is either a plugged idle circuit, a plugged pilot jet or possibly you got the float bowls on the wrong carbs- the left is different from the right. IF YOU HAVE A TORS PROBLEM THE BIKE WON"T RUN AT ALL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labbe001 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 "You can eliminate those bulky boxes up there with a TORS removal kit or buy a set of carbs already set up without it" Can someone recommend a good tors delete kit. i've seen some on ebay but just wanted to get the opinion of you guys "Sounds to me like it is either a plugged idle circuit, a plugged pilot jet or possibly you got the float bowls on the wrong carbs- the left is different from the right. IF YOU HAVE A TORS PROBLEM THE BIKE WON"T RUN AT ALL." What exactly is the "idle circuit?" "carbs are not sync'ed or maybe it doesn't have the choke tube there. also could be a bad plug." choke tube is there and plugs are good..will have to check the carb sync Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labbe001 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 so update....yesterday when i got home i pulled the float bowl off of both carbs to compare and see what the difference is....am i missing something b/c i couldn't find one thing that was different b/t the two.....while i had the carbs removed and bowls removed, i removed and cleaned all the jets again.....then i swapped the slides so i could swap the tors to see if my problem changed sides....after all that, nothing....the problem still remains w/ the right cylinder not kicking in till bout 1/4 throttle....i also check to see if the carbs were synced by checking the needle and listening as i snapped the throttle shut.....i'm not 100% sure exactly what is meant by carbs being synced but they seem to be....i'm really just at a loss with this whole thing.....i've come to the conclusion that the problem is definately in the carb but i just cant pin in down....does anyone have any other ideas? thanks for all the help so far...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labbe001 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2010 also, i'm in the huntsville, alabama area during the week and in the birmingham, alabama area on weekends...was wondering if there was anyone around those areas that wouldn't mind meeting up and maybe taking a look at it for me...just let me know...thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon2021 Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 Chech your reeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
375hp banshees Posted October 5, 2020 Report Share Posted October 5, 2020 Man this things been sitting 10&1/2 years ...why didn't i think to check the reeds Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grantevans713 Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 On 10/4/2020 at 8:01 PM, 375hp banshees said: Man this things been sitting 10&1/2 years ...why didn't i think to check the reeds Thanks! 10½ years I'd clean your carbs while they are off to check the reeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
375hp banshees Posted October 7, 2020 Report Share Posted October 7, 2020 Man thanks, ive been waiting for a good response, so i could get this thing ripp'n again ! ! !Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.