dajogejr Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 You popped an oring JD. I'd bet on it. Let me know how milling an aftermarket head works out for you.... Seriously, I'm sure you have a surface plate at work. Take the shell off, remove the domes and do a few figure 8's on some 800 grit wet sand paper...make sure the whole surface gets scratched. When you put the head back on, go 10 ft. lbs, then 15 then 20 all the way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 well tonight i whipped the tank off and checked all my lines, pretty sure they are correct, as they are different sizes, but to note the hose from bottom on my expansion tank, (that goes to the top of the rad next to the rad cap), somehow was wedged under my airbox and rear shock mount, pinching it tight, it was pretty tight in there and took some pulling out, no doubt this would be causing some issues. My bike melted a piston 2weeks ago, hence my new rebuild on sat morn, but its was pushing out water before, and still is now. So im thinking due to the intense heat, i may have warped my head, so i took that off tonight aswell. I put it on my steel workbench which is flat, and there is slight rocking motion, if i press with my finger on the front bolt recess next to where the rad hose connects, it lifts the back side ever so slightly. Rang my yam dealer early this morning thou, the guy i always deal with there used to personally race banshees in mx, and pretty sure won the Pont De Vaux enduro a few times, he was confident that my problem was the head gasket, so ive got that on the way and he has heads in stock for £30, so il prob get one aswell. Hopefully be sorted by the weekend! Keep you posted lol, dave.....i was talking to this guy with the stock head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 You popped an oring JD. I'd bet on it. Let me know how milling an aftermarket head works out for you.... Seriously, I'm sure you have a surface plate at work. Take the shell off, remove the domes and do a few figure 8's on some 800 grit wet sand paper...make sure the whole surface gets scratched. When you put the head back on, go 10 ft. lbs, then 15 then 20 all the way around. Yea, it seems to be that Dave. I'm going to back her down from 190 psi as that is just excessive anyways (but it sure does rip outa the hole haha). I put this head on last year with no RTV like I used in years past without issue. So Im going to back down the compression, make sure the head surface is flat, and re-install O-rings with a lil bit of RTV. Lets hope for the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike350uk Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 is your workbench true flat, like 1/4"+, or "flat" got a straitedge? i would just have the head planed, or milled, actually, and you will pick up a little power over just replacing the head. also, it has to be parfectly cleaned, with no burrs, or deposits to be square, or the slightest thing can make you think it's warped, not to say it's not, but i'd be sticking a straitedge on it and checking for junk on there. well i did put it on a straight edge, and i was sure that it was slightly out. But whilst i was at work today, my old man had a look, and he(and old skool motocrosser) reckons its fine, and i should just put the new gasket on and go try it! so thats the plan! cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Yea, it seems to be that Dave. I'm going to back her down from 190 psi as that is just excessive anyways (but it sure does rip outa the hole haha). I put this head on last year with no RTV like I used in years past without issue. So Im going to back down the compression, make sure the head surface is flat, and re-install O-rings with a lil bit of RTV. Lets hope for the best oh, yah, i've installed allot of o-rings with a light rtv coating at work, too, lol. one thing i do, also, is leave the radiator cap off for the heat cycles, so there's no pressure in the cooling system as it cools off and loosens up, then retorque the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 Alright! It was the O-ring. Thx for the input fellas, time to RIP this thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 pinched perhaps ? what do all the big alco builds run ? steel o-ring with coper gasket ? or do the viton orings do alright ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 pinched perhaps ? what do all the big alco builds run ? steel o-ring with coper gasket ? or do the viton orings do alright ? I personally like the stock head gasket.... I run a cut stock head on my drag bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03rider Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 (edited) i to have a leak.stock radiator spittin when hot out of front left (if lookin from front) there are no over flows there. so i put an after market aluminum 30% bigger one in with an in line cooler on each line out of despriteness and this danm things leaking on my pipe in the same spot, but only enough to see the steam but cant find the leak. now i know the things over heat quick, but how are all you desert,west coast and south riders keepin cool? im in ohio were it pretty cool most the year. and i just cant figure it out. PLEASE BANSHEE OG"S, any advise would be greatly apreciated. Ohio 03 rider Edited April 29, 2010 by 03rider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 actuall, if you still have the coolant catch bottle hooked up and plumbed, that is where the end of the hose is....a few things to make sure- the hose going to the radiator from the catch is hooked to pull from the bottom of the catch, take your cap of and start it.....you should see the coolant moving in the radiator, and it shouldn't spit out more than what may vibrate out at first....does the exhaust smell sweet? white smoke?.....and one of the biggest things i stress is the condition of your coolant....if you don't know, can't test, or it smells fishy, replace it with a 50/50-60/40 mixture of fresh stuff, and make sure to flush the remaining old stuff out of the bottom of the jugs by tipping it on both sides when the plugs are out.......the coolant condition/quality makes a huge difference in overheating..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03rider Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 actuall, if you still have the coolant catch bottle hooked up and plumbed, that is where the end of the hose is....a few things to make sure- the hose going to the radiator from the catch is hooked to pull from the bottom of the catch, take your cap of and start it.....you should see the coolant moving in the radiator, and it shouldn't spit out more than what may vibrate out at first....does the exhaust smell sweet? white smoke?.....and one of the biggest things i stress is the condition of your coolant....if you don't know, can't test, or it smells fishy, replace it with a 50/50-60/40 mixture of fresh stuff, and make sure to flush the remaining old stuff out of the bottom of the jugs by tipping it on both sides when the plugs are out.......the coolant condition/quality makes a huge difference in overheating..... is it cool 2 run any 50/50 or is there a certain kind i should use? i run engine ice now but with a leak that gets a lil expensive.so if i could use anything,i would feel real stupid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 is it cool 2 run any 50/50 or is there a certain kind i should use? i run engine ice now but with a leak that gets a lil expensive.so if i could use anything,i would feel real stupid I have been running 50/50 since I bought my 89 new, i change it out every 2 years or sooner and have had no problems. I do add a little Water Wetter per the instructions on the bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03rider Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 I have been running 50/50 since I bought my 89 new, i change it out every 2 years or sooner and have had no problems. I do add a little Water Wetter per the instructions on the bottle. cool,thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03rider Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 so im tryin to purge/bleed out the air in my coolant sys. the CORRECT way cause im gona do a pressure test,and im pretty sure im not doin it right, does anyone have any good or helpful tips. id realy apreciate it,my poor bike hasnt been out in weeks and it and i are in need a good hard ride without over heating or blowing seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted May 7, 2010 Report Share Posted May 7, 2010 just fill it...starti it up and rev it if you want. there is really nothing to bleed. that is why it has that little hose on the top of the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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