SLORYDER Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Yeah if your port timing is stock what will the 2mm base plate put yout timing at? Also I have some mild porting done to mine like 126/ 189. Wondering what that would put me at... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 well, all you can do is measure....mm-degrees conversion isn't verry easy, since linear distace per degree of rotation changes by every degree...and the plate is only 1.5mm.....plus whatever gasket you add Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Yeah if your port timing is stock what will the 2mm base plate put yout timing at? Also I have some mild porting done to mine like 126/ 189. Wondering what that would put me at... i thought someone sent you that "port mapper" program a while back, in one of your previos porting posts? if so, start using it and learning about "what mm height changes here", end up doing "there". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 i thought someone sent you that "port mapper" program a while back, in one of your previos porting posts? if so, start using it and learning about "what mm height changes here", end up doing "there". I don't recall getting that program... Would be nice tho And if you raise the barrel, I know you have to trim the top of the barrel and lower the transfers, exhaust, and intake...Isn't there much less reprecussion if you don't dress the inside radius of the transfers(lowering the port to increase duration)perfectly? Seems like there would be way less of a chance of altering the flow dramatically by not doing it perfectly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overrevtricky Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 I sure wouldnt mind this "port mapper" u so speak of! If anyone knows where to get it please let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Yeah if your port timing is stock what will the 2mm base plate put yout timing at? Also I have some mild porting done to mine like 126/ 189. Wondering what that would put me at... I am confused as to your target. Are you doing a 4mm with the spacer? The spacer by itself will be the same as raising the ports 2mm except your deck height will be all wrong. I think if you do your homework, you will find the spacer is not all that great of an idea because of the stock port map. Also must take into account, the rod length, change in stroke, etc. Why don't you post what your goals are, and your target engine spec and I can make some recommendations. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Target is a drag engine, stock stroke with pipes like shears of cpi's. I don't feel comfortable grinding on the trnnsfer roofs, and the spacer is the best way for me to increase the port timing. I shoulld be able to get the deck milled, along with the spacer for relatively cheap, then it would just be a matter of lowering my ports, which IMO would be much easier to do a decent job on than raising them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Target is a drag engine, stock stroke with pipes like shears of cpi's. I don't feel comfortable grinding on the trnnsfer roofs, and the spacer is the best way for me to increase the port timing. I shoulld be able to get the deck milled, along with the spacer for relatively cheap, then it would just be a matter of lowering my ports, which IMO would be much easier to do a decent job on than raising them... As an engine porter, I would tend to disagree on lowering the ports being easier. It really is about the same deal but I consider raising them easier. You will have to remove all the cylinder studs, relieve the holes again so the gasket will sit down, and deck the cylinders. Not worth it IMO when raising the ports will ultimately be a better deal. Allows correction of some port geometry while also advancing the timing. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 As an engine porter, I would tend to disagree on lowering the ports being easier. It really is about the same deal but I consider raising them easier. You will have to remove all the cylinder studs, relieve the holes again so the gasket will sit down, and deck the cylinders. Not worth it IMO when raising the ports will ultimately be a better deal. Allows correction of some port geometry while also advancing the timing. B My theory is that not everyone has the steady hand and experience to change port roof geometry. On the other hane lowering the ports seems do-able for someone with limited skills as the outside radius work would be much more sensitiveto errors than the inside. To me, if you were to lower the ports symetrically it would be really difficult to actually disrupt the gas dlow much if at all. And even someone with limited mechanical knowledge can remove and re-install the head studs. It might take a while, but to me almost anyone with a dremel and a 90 degree attachment could do this with a little patience. Just my theory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 My theory is that not everyone has the steady hand and experience to change port roof geometry. On the other hane lowering the ports seems do-able for someone with limited skills as the outside radius work would be much more sensitiveto errors than the inside. To me, if you were to lower the ports symetrically it would be really difficult to actually disrupt the gas dlow much if at all. And even someone with limited mechanical knowledge can remove and re-install the head studs. It might take a while, but to me almost anyone with a dremel and a 90 degree attachment could do this with a little patience. Just my theory. Gotcha. Let us know how she runs. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 wtf? tryin to run the spacer to move the ports? that's ghetto ass, and i understand why, but you didn't decide to do this to take shortcuts, did ya? work like that will surely bow. so, find a way to do it right, and not ruin a good set of cylinders intentionally, which i'm sure you have 100+ hrs int from reasearch, mapping and cutting. otherwise, take them into your guy who has the tool to get the transfers and have them cut as much as you want.....i'm sure he'll do it pretty cheap, if all it is is using his 90* tool to follow the dotted line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 I'm no rocket scientist but unless some one is milling and releiving bolt holes for free, put the money towards a port job. Any time I've had doubts about my abilities in any given project I end up regreting having started it. Btw I've done some porting, my first with die files and sanding rolls, (many, many years ago, when a T-500 was relatively new, lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Ok I never said it was instant drag motor. Buuut $100 for a cheap dremel, 90 degree tool, and a couple bits. $25 for a spacer and gasket. $60 for the machine work That's under $200 bucks, you have much more agressive timing which, to me would be a serious bump in hp? Can you please state exactly what will not work with this theory.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 ok this is a stupid question and im probably totally wrong, but wouldnt your piston rings snag the base plate, or will the piston not travel that low in the bore? Thinking about it now i dont believe the piston will travel that low. Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLORYDER Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 ok this is a stupid question and im probably totally wrong, but wouldnt your piston rings snag the base plate, or will the piston not travel that low in the bore? Thinking about it now i dont believe the piston will travel that low. Cody No man I don't believe they even go much below the boost port Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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