James-26 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 I didnt kick anywhere near 30 times when I did my test. Maybe 10-15 kicks on each side and I also held the throttle open while kicking. I can't remember if the engine was cold or warm when I did my test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Here is the tester I use. I got it off ebay about a year ago. Can't remember what I paid for it. Now take a pic of the end of the test end that installs in your head. My guess is it does NOT have a valve in the tip. This is a CRITICAL difference. Usually all those little adapters are a sure sign that you need a different gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James-26 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 It looks to have a valve in the tip to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 yeah 100 psi is pretty low i have a 95 shee and it read 120 psi in each cylinder after 14 years on the stock pistons before i rebuilt it, im at the same elevation as you to, a cool head is definately the way to go, i love my noss head. A cool head is def not the only way to go, a stock cut head will work just as good as a cool head if your on a budget, if ya got extra cash then the cool heads do look nice, and the removable domes is not nice. If you know what kinda fuel you wanna run and dont care about the bling, or building a sleeper motor than a stock head will do just fine, and if mull engineering ever gets the time lol, there head exchange is hard to beat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 removable domes is nice* wow thats gay that i cant edit my post anymore, oh well guess its just more bullshit someones gotta read threw! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 The problem with your gauge is the adapterthat goes between the gauge and cylinder. Unless it has a check valve in the other adapter it is not getting an accurate reading on the engine. Also, when you check the compression, the engine should be warm, the throttle should be wide open, and you should kick it over until the needle quits climbing. 100 psi seems a little low even for 800 feet, if it was 1800 ft, it would be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 The problem with your gauge is the adapterthat goes between the gauge and cylinder. Unless it has a check valve in the other adapter it is not getting an accurate reading on the engine. Also, when you check the compression, the engine should be warm, the throttle should be wide open, and you should kick it over until the needle quits climbing. 100 psi seems a little low even for 800 feet, if it was 1800 ft, it would be fine. I run a cut and chambered head that gets me 185 at sea level when fresh, and is at 175 after 7 years on the top end.I have no problems with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driggs Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Make sure you're holding the throttle wide open when you're testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodneya Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Make sure you're holding the throttle wide open when you're testing. Make sure you read the whole post before offering your pearls of wisedom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickStartMyHeart Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 This topic is a never ending topic. I have a very aggressive port on my cylinders (real close to a drag port) and I freaked out when I had 135lbs of compression after a fresh top end and a milled head. The reasoning for this is because my exhaust ports have been raised therefore lowering compression. Whether this is true or not im totally positive, but ive spoke to several known guys in the industry and they all said the same thing. I do not have specs on my porting, but JSR performance is the one who ported my cylinders. I also got the milled head from them as well. Im not sure of my elevation, but im in wichita ks. I got soo damn wrapped up in worrying about compression all the time and tearing it back down to bump the compression to 150 lbs that I finally said F it and just ride the damn thing. Mine runs real strong and will beat 450's and raptor 700's all day long with my 135 psi compression. I have a coolhead, but have not installed it yet and wont until after snakehunt. Its dialed in just fine right now and dont feel like f'n with it while im down at snakehunt. I plan on replacing the head when I get back with 20 or 21 cc domes just so I can run 91 octane or a blended fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driggs Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Make sure you read the whole post before offering your pearls of wisedom You're officially a douchebag! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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