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New Toy, Needs some work


benb5241

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Hey guys, new to the forum, been a member of everything2stroke for some time. Just picked up a banshee this past weekend. It needs some work to it. As you can tell, one of the pistons got clobbered. The one side of the crank is shot too, at least the lower rod bearing is, and I suspect the main bearings as well.

 

It came with cool dome heads, and I need a new set of domes for it. It has meiar? racing plastics on it all around. Ported, as you can tell, but its a pretty ugly job. I might have to have someone clean it up if at all possible, but that is at a later time if it seems screwed up, I am going to do some measurements and look at it better when I get home, I'm at college now. I'm planning on replacing the crank, pistons, and domes at the least.

 

It has the following done to it. It has pro taper bars, meiar racing plastics, six pack rack, gripper seat cover, works dual rate shocks with ressies, good full set of kenda tires, itp polished aluminum wheels all around, fmf gnarly pipes with powercore 2 silencers, trinity 2 in 1 carb setup, keihn pwk carb, porting, pro design cool head, 200 watt stator, billet impeller, barnett racing clutch with new hub and pressure plate, hinson clutch basket, vforce reeds, k&n airfilter, and new case halfs, a spare set of maxxis razr 18 inch tires in like new condition, hairs still slightly on, and a set of nerfs, I cannot remember the brand. Thanks to any one who answers and what do you think?

 

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Edited by SAVAGE420
Fixed and put your pics up here.
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Yeah I'm set to get a new crank ordered today or tomorrow. And for the studs, it does have a cool head, and I know those come with different studs, would that be why they are much longer than stock?

 

I am also wondering what to do with the carb setup. It has the trinity stage IV 2 into 1 kit on it and I am not sure what the jetting should be at for it. I'm at about sea level so...

 

Other than that, I am just in the area of procuring parts for it and will update as I build it up.

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i think he was talking about the cylinder studs in the middle. head studs will be longer than oem as well but i dont think that's what he was referring to. either way not going to hurt anything imo. i dont have an opinion on the carb jetting, i'm running dual 35 pwks so i cant be much help there. good luck, keep us posted!

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The surprising thing is, there really isn't any scarring on the cylinder walls from the piston. I was very surprised, because it looked like someone took a welder to the rings to try and make them stay on the piston, they are literally merged into one. I think I am going to bore it one size over, since it has virtually no scarring, and I need new domes for it because the one side got clobbered from the piston, its super pitted, what size do you think I could run tops on pump gas where I am at? The local pump gas is 91 octane.

 

Yeah, all the parts are included except of course new pistons, crank, domes, gasket kit, etc. I even got the stock pipes, front shocks, front gas tank and radiator plastic, clutch inspection plate or whatever the formal name is for that, since it has a polished aluminum one on it, and 450r front hubs. Actually I got everything for 1050, which for around here where I live, isn't bad. You really can't pick up a running one around here for less than 1500, and that is pretty much bone stock. At least that is what I have seen looking for them.

 

One quick question, what would the guy have been planning to do with the 450r hubs and the banshee, do they add any width or something?

 

Thanks for the input!

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Couple quick questions to sum up my last post, what can 450r hubs do for a banshee, as I got a set of them with it, idk what the kid was planning to do with them, does it widen the front stance, more durable, etc.

 

Another question, what size domes should I run for the cool head to be on pump gas, 20cc, 21, or 22, I ride anywhere between 300-1000 feet above sea level.

 

One more question, last for now, what should I start off with for the jetting for this setup, its got fmf gnarly pipes, powercore 2 silencers, k&n air filter, single 36mm pwk carb, vforce 3 reed valves, porting that looked like it came outta hell, and that should be everything that I think affects jetting, I just dont wanna blow her up on my first ride. Thanks

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Judging from what I can see, your piston did not get "clobbered", your crankshaft grenaded and the resulting shrapnel ran through the engine and damaged the piston, head, and cylinder. This is what an unwelded crank does. Make sure the new crank that you get is trued and welded.

 

Right, but in the end, the piston did get clobbered, as did the head on one side, even if it was by the metal fragments of the bearing going ou. The shrapnel from the rod bearing going out also took out at least one main crank bearing, as its almost impossible to turn over, no matter where you are at. Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to either look for one that is already trued and welded or get it done if it isnt. Thanks.

 

As for the jetting, I will have to check what it has in it when I get home to make sure.

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Ok, completely tore apart the engine, found some surprises.

 

As I am taking off my cover, some piece of metal falls out, looks like a clip of some sort, completely mangled. I have no clue where it came from or where it goes. It was steel so I got afraid.

 

Then ,basically, somehow, the clutch managed grind up against the cover, at least the bolts did, because they stick out the farthest. I though, no big deal, aluminum versus steel, steel wins of course, all the internals pretty much are steel, no biggie.

 

Then, I take a look at the clutch basket and see the big gear towards the rear of the basket has a gouge in the same place in all the teeth. Not good obviously. On the gear that is behind but still on the clutch basket, there is a gouge in one of the teeth. Like I said, I will update with pictures later.

 

Other than those mishaps, it looks like no one has taken the transmission apart so thats a good thing. I cleaned everything out, figured out the carb was jetted at 190 and pilot of 52, and it died during 10 degree weather, idk if that is lean or not, kind of sounds like it to me.

 

O, one more thing, the billet water pump inpeller, it's ruined, whoever put a new seal in when they replaced the pump pushed it in too much, it put too much pressure on the shaft of the impeller, and wore grooves in it, not your normal, like probably 1/8" deep, so it is shot.

 

Here are the pics.

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