zr2highrider Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 I just got my top end rebuild kit today. 65mm wiseco's, rings, wristpins, c-clips, needle bearings, and gaskets. I was wondering if there was anything that I needed to know about rebuilding this top end. I have only done one other rebuild on a 2 stroke and it was an old DT175. I have a clymer repair manual that I follow to the tee. I know these things arent that hard but was just wondering if there was anything that I should "double check" or watch out for. Any extra advice would be much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNTBANSHEE Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 I just got my top end rebuild kit today. 65mm wiseco's, rings, wristpins, c-clips, needle bearings, and gaskets. I was wondering if there was anything that I needed to know about rebuilding this top end. I have only done one other rebuild on a 2 stroke and it was an old DT175. I have a clymer repair manual that I follow to the tee. I know these things arent that hard but was just wondering if there was anything that I should "double check" or watch out for. Any extra advice would be much appreciated! Just follow the repair manual and you will be golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasJeff Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 x2 and take your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandfrk33 Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Put a little 2 stroke oil on everything when assembling. Follow the manual. Looks harder than it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundish2800 Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 just go slow. i did my first one just from the manual and didnt have any problems. One little tip dont drink beer while doing it for the first time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebanshee Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 If it is a fresh bore make sure the ports are chamfered so you don't catch a ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zr2highrider Posted March 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Its going to be a fresh bore so I will deffinatly make sure the ports are chamfered. Just make sure that there are no burrs right? Anyways, thanks for all the input! I will make sure that i lube everything up and I will try to keep the Coors away for a little wile! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pweezy42 Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 explain this chamfered a lil more please also doing this myself in the next week or so due to my local shop wants 700 for the rebuild jeez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 explain this chamfered a lil more please also doing this myself in the next week or so due to my local shop wants 700 for the rebuild jeez The intake and exhaust ports on the inside of the cylinder can get really sharp after being bored and honed. If the ports are not chamfered then there is a possibility during install to catch a piston ring on the sharp lip of the port damaging the ring...thus deterorating the life of the engine/rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Gap rings, make sure pin clips are in and drink beer AFTER you're done. Also clean cyl good after bore/hone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pweezy42 Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Gap rings, make sure pin clips are in and drink beer AFTER you're done. Also clean cyl good after bore/hone. clean w/what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpringle83 Posted March 31, 2010 Report Share Posted March 31, 2010 clean w/what? Clean it with a good solvent to remove all the shavings and oils from the machining process I always use a non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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