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Degree key function


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chariot makes a very nice timing plate, and the price isnt to bad, also a site sponsor. There are plenty of cheap aluminum ones on ebay that will get the job done and work fine, wont have the bling of the chariot though. Rm stator has them which im sure is the same as the ricky stators, just make sure you only get the plate and not the stator to! Ive had a couple for years and they work fine. But the chariot is a nice piece if you have the dough.

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the degree keys that are being sheared off are being installed incoorectly, a degeree key is just a clocking device. ppl are not seating the flywheel correctly and are not correctly torquing the flywheel nut down. if you notice most pple that break the key happens almost immediatly. degreekeys are a big item in the snowmobile industry, but i agree that the timing plate is more practical in most cases being that today it could be set a 4 degrees and tommorow 10.

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the degree keys that are being sheared off are being installed incoorectly, a degeree key is just a clocking device. ppl are not seating the flywheel correctly and are not correctly torquing the flywheel nut down. if you notice most pple that break the key happens almost immediatly. degreekeys are a big item in the snowmobile industry, but i agree that the timing plate is more practical in most cases being that today it could be set a 4 degrees and tommorow 10.

 

seating the flywheel? torquing the flywheel? i think both of these things are really irrelevant in the case of the degree key. the problem i can see with the degree key is that they are stepped and thats what causes the shearing point. ive never heard of a stock key shearing and id be willing to bet there are far more of those being installed than the +4 degree keys.

 

regardless, the timing plate is a much better option that provides many more timing options.

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Have you ever seen a woodruff key that is half sheared off? it looks just like a brand new degree key. I have seen lots of half sheared keys in industrial applications and I would not use a degree key. If you can't afford a plate you can slot the holes in the stock plate and advnce it. I recomend the Chariot piece, it is the best bang for the buck.

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I just didn't know how reliable the degree keys were. I do now and will be purchasing a timing plate and higher wattage stator instead. I'll probably do a dc conversion and run HIDs too.

Beware of the higher wattage stators, most of them are junk, especially Ricky Stator. If you are going DC with HIDs then you may not need more wattage. Most HIDs use less power than stock lights once they have fired off, if you have a battery on the bike, that will get them fired off and then the stock stator will keep them running. You need to PM Snopcynski(or however you spell it, sorry) on here. He is the lighting,and DC conversion guru and will tell you the best way of doing it, what lights to use, etc.

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What do you mean by they are junk? Do they quit working or what?

Yes, they qiut working, some of them have problems with high RPM misfires, and some of the Ricky Staor ones don't even work when they are installed out of the box. Ricky Stator used to make their stuff in the USA, but they switched to China manufacturing and their quality went to shit. Stay away from Ricky Stator, or RM Stator which looks like a renamed Ricky Stator. There are multiple threads on here about this. If you have to have a big stator, try Moose, Electrix or Electrosp[ort, I have a hunch these are all from the same manufacturer, but they are the ones that I have heard the least bad news about. I was going to do a large stator, DC conversion with a battery, but I am now looking into some light that will work with just a DC conversion and a battery, because my wife wants some LED park lights so she does not get hit when she is parked watching us race the hill at night.

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