Flush mounted vapor computer

[jbooker82]

My vapor would blink out or reset right as my banshee would hit the power band.

 

I did the 9 volt battery trick and still got interfearance until I switched from runing non resistor B8ES plugs to Resistor BR8ES plugs.

 

I tried everthing to get the interfreance to stop. Running it with out the tach hooked up. Wich there was enough electrical interfearence and I still got an accurate tach reading. Running it by the internal battery only. Trail tech said that some times the battery vibrates and that is what was causing the blinking out or reseting. So I put a little piece of paper towel to make the batter fit tighter.

 

I tried all those things in multiple combos and nothing helped. The switch from B8ES to BR8ES did the trick. It was the last thing I tried and it worked. So I ditched the 9 volt battery and hooked it up to the stator and it has been running fine off that with no issues for 2 years now.

 

FYI I am running a nology coil and hot wires, I would imagine a hoter spark would make for more electrical interfearance too.

[evro]

mine worked great right from the start. spliced into the light circuit before the switch so it'll work without them having to be on.

 

i was really most concerned with temperature but the tach and speedo are nice (as long as they keep working). also, for free riding and trail riding, the odometer is nice. i've got my fuel range dialed in to within a few kilometers (depending on how hard i am riding).

 

but yeah, lots of guys have had nothing but problems with them too...

[jbooker82]

the odometer is nice. i've got my fuel range dialed in to within a few kilometers (depending on how hard i am riding).

 

that is the biggest plus right there. Distance to Empty.

[bansheesandrider]

My vapor would blink out or reset right as my banshee would hit the power band.

 

I did the 9 volt battery trick and still got interfearance until I switched from runing non resistor B8ES plugs to Resistor BR8ES plugs.

 

I tried everthing to get the interfreance to stop. Running it with out the tach hooked up. Wich there was enough electrical interfearence and I still got an accurate tach reading. Running it by the internal battery only. Trail tech said that some times the battery vibrates and that is what was causing the blinking out or reseting. So I put a little piece of paper towel to make the batter fit tighter.

 

I tried all those things in multiple combos and nothing helped. The switch from B8ES to BR8ES did the trick. It was the last thing I tried and it worked. So I ditched the 9 volt battery and hooked it up to the stator and it has been running fine off that with no issues for 2 years now.

 

FYI I am running a nology coil and hot wires, I would imagine a hoter spark would make for more electrical interfearance too.

With mine the problem was that when the coolant temperature was below 100 degrees and I revved the bike above 6000 it would do a complete reset, if I waited till it was above 100 degrees it was fine. I was running BR8ES plugs in it as I always do. I tried the 9V battery trick, it made no difference. I took the bike to the TrailTech headquarters and they looked at it, tried thebattery shimming trick, replaced the coolant sesor and the replaced the computer itself. By this time, the bike had come up to 100 degrees and it was workoing OK. I came back home and tried it riding in one of my fields a couple of days later, and it was still doing it. I called Trail Tech and they said to remove the tach pickup and try it- it would still do it with the tach pickup removed. I took the bike back to them again and they trid every way they knew of to hook up the tach, replaced all the sensors and wiring and even the computer again, but no matter what they did it would still reset. While I was riding it at home I came to the conclusion that the tach was too hard to read when I was tearing it up, and I was still shifting it by the way it sounded and felt. I figured that if I did not know when to shift after 15+ years on it, that I should not be on it. So, I ended up telling Trail Tech that I could live without the tach if it would work properly. We then tried the Vector unit and it worked flawlessly. The Vector is the same thing without the tachometer in it, it has every other function except the one related to the tach and I mainly wanted the temp, speedometer and hourmeter functions.In the end, they let me keep the Vapor setup that I bought, and they gave me a complete Vector setup plus one of their terminal and crimper kits. The Vector has been on there for 2 years now and has never reset once. Some day, when I have the time I was going to try the Vapor on my wife's Banshee and see what happens. I would recomend that if you don't need the tachometer to go with the Vector and save yourself some headache.

[jbooker82]

Yea I dont know what the deal is. I dont use the tach any way because it is to hard to read. I do like how it keeps the max rpm though. You could have kept the vapor. Maybe your top end would have lasted longer. You would think do beat on it until the engine was warmed up. 6000 RPM on an engine operating at below 100 deg isn't real good on it.

[bansheesandrider]

Yea I dont know what the deal is. I dont use the tach any way because it is to hard to read. I do like how it keeps the max rpm though. You could have kept the vapor. Maybe your top end would have lasted longer. You would think do beat on it until the engine was warmed up. 6000 RPM on an engine operating at below 100 deg isn't real good on it.

I don't beat on it, an occasional blip of the throttle to clean it out will take it above 6000, and that was all it took to make the Trail Tech reset. The pipes were already warm, the coolant was below 100. Hell, when I am actually moving the coolant is only 170. I always make sure the bike is fully warmed up before I start riding it hard, but as I am jetted borderline rich, I sometimes have to blip the throttle to clean it out. When I put this topend on it, it had 185 pounds of compression, and now 7 years later it still has 175 pounds. As I have not had any problems with seizures, snagged rings or the other things that arise from not properly warming up the engine , I don't think I am beating on it. When I had the bike at Trail Tech, the actual engineer that designed the Vapor was working on it and baffled.

[bansheesandrider]

I don't beat on it, an occasional blip of the throttle to clean it out will take it above 6000, and that was all it took to make the Trail Tech reset. The pipes were already warm, the coolant was below 100. Hell, when I am actually moving the coolant is only 170. I always make sure the bike is fully warmed up before I start riding it hard, but as I am jetted borderline rich, I sometimes have to blip the throttle to clean it out. When I put this topend on it, it had 185 pounds of compression, and now 7 years later it still has 175 pounds. As I have not had any problems with seizures, snagged rings or the other things that arise from not properly warming up the engine , I don't think I am beating on it. When I had the bike at Trail Tech, the actual engineer that designed the Vapor was working on it and baffled.

Since I thought the tach was unusable when riding, I figured it was better to go with the Vector and have a more reliable and easier to read setup. I am glad I did as I have had zero problems with the Vector and it does what I really wanted the thing for anyway.

[AKheathen]

i'ma cheat and hook it to the dyna f/s......mabey i'll not read the tach 90% of the time, but hopefully, i can see the shift lights..... no matter how well you know when to shift, there's always that occasional instance that it would be nice