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First Oil Change W/ ATF-F


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I have been running type F ATF for 4 years on a 4 mil stock drag ported setup and now a 10 mil cub w/a duneable tranny beating the piss out of it in the dunes and at the track and have had no problems whatsoever. I change it often, but it is cheap. I typically ise the castrol brand simply because it is a respectable name and readily available.

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I have been running type F ATF for 4 years on a 4 mil stock drag ported setup and now a 10 mil cub w/a duneable tranny beating the piss out of it in the dunes and at the track and have had no problems whatsoever. I change it often, but it is cheap. I typically ise the castrol brand simply because it is a respectable name and readily available.

 

I just bought my Banshee a couple of months ago and just got it about ready to ride, It had clean looking oil in the tranny but I didn't know what was in it. I bought 4 bottles of Castrol type F and changed it and then warmed it up and rode it around the yard a fews times and changed it again to flush out what was left of the old oil. I then rode it down the street a few times and it seemed to shift smoother and find neutral easier. I'm going to be mostly trail riding it and will keep a close eye on the fluid and probably change it after every 2 rides or so, but so far I really like it.

 

Jimmy

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Did you use oil designed for a wet clutch? If not it will make your clutch slip. I like ATF, but other oils will work if it is designed for a wet clutch.

 

really I don't know if the mobil1 is designed for a wet clutch but the Banshee manual just say 10w/30 oil motor nothing else, then this was I used in my banshee.

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I just bought my Banshee a couple of months ago and just got it about ready to ride, It had clean looking oil in the tranny but I didn't know what was in it. I bought 4 bottles of Castrol type F and changed it and then warmed it up and rode it around the yard a fews times and changed it again to flush out what was left of the old oil. I then rode it down the street a few times and it seemed to shift smoother and find neutral easier. I'm going to be mostly trail riding it and will keep a close eye on the fluid and probably change it after every 2 rides or so, but so far I really like it.

 

Jimmy

 

I took the Banshee out for the first time yesterday with the type F fluid and the clutch was smooth and worked great, BUT after riding for 20 minutes or so I noticed it started hard shifting and neutral was harder to find. What do you guys think? What should I put in it?

 

Jimmy

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I tried atf type-f and had issues granted it probably just exposed my weak clutch but I put Belray Gear Saver 80W in with the new clutch and have never looked back... A little more expensive but it will last longer and works great.

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I took the Banshee out for the first time yesterday with the type F fluid and the clutch was smooth and worked great, BUT after riding for 20 minutes or so I noticed it started hard shifting and neutral was harder to find. What do you guys think? What should I put in it?

 

Jimmy

I have been using Klotz Flex Drive 30(part number KL506) for about the last 17 years or so. I had tried moter oil, ATF Type F, Hondaline tranny oil and BelRay GearSaver before that. With the motor oil and ATF it was hard to shift and when I drained it there was "glittter" in the oil, I even split the cases to see if there was a problem but did not find anything. I then tried the BelRay and that was better as far as shifting and glitter. When my dealer was out of BelRay, I tried the Honda oil and the shifting SUCKED, it was not in there long enough to tell about the glitter. I then had an independent shop recomend the Klotz and I have been using it ever since. My bike shifts great with it and there is never any glitter in it when I drain it, it looks almost as good coming out as it did going in. I have not had any tranny or clutch problems- my Toomey clutch plates looked almost new the last time I was in there, I have never welded a clutch ball in any of the 3 Banshees or 2 Blaster we have owned, never lost any gear or bearings, etc. I think it is the best thing out there, but it is not cheap and I now have to mail order it from Rocky Mt. ATV to get it. I keep enough in the trailer that I can change both Banshees and the Blaster(all the bikes we currently own) on the road if I have to and I keep enough at home to do it again. I have an hourmeter on my bike and change mine every 20 hours and do the other 2 bikes as I see fit, they don't get the hours mine does.

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I have been using Klotz Flex Drive 30(part number KL506) for about the last 17 years or so. I had tried moter oil, ATF Type F, Hondaline tranny oil and BelRay GearSaver before that. With the motor oil and ATF it was hard to shift and when I drained it there was "glittter" in the oil, I even split the cases to see if there was a problem but did not find anything. I then tried the BelRay and that was better as far as shifting and glitter. When my dealer was out of BelRay, I tried the Honda oil and the shifting SUCKED, it was not in there long enough to tell about the glitter. I then had an independent shop recomend the Klotz and I have been using it ever since. My bike shifts great with it and there is never any glitter in it when I drain it, it looks almost as good coming out as it did going in. I have not had any tranny or clutch problems- my Toomey clutch plates looked almost new the last time I was in there, I have never welded a clutch ball in any of the 3 Banshees or 2 Blaster we have owned, never lost any gear or bearings, etc. I think it is the best thing out there, but it is not cheap and I now have to mail order it from Rocky Mt. ATV to get it. I keep enough in the trailer that I can change both Banshees and the Blaster(all the bikes we currently own) on the road if I have to and I keep enough at home to do it again. I have an hourmeter on my bike and change mine every 20 hours and do the other 2 bikes as I see fit, they don't get the hours mine does.

 

Thanks bansheesandrider,

I have the glitter as well when I drained the oil and that concerned me, I will order some Klotz Flex Drive 30 in the morning from Rocky MT. Since the stuff is pricey can I just drain the ATF out and add the Klotz and ride 20 hours? Or am I going to have to drain the ATF then add the Klotz and warm the bike up and then drain and add again to flush it of all the ATF?

 

Jimmy

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Thanks bansheesandrider,

I have the glitter as well when I drained the oil and that concerned me, I will order some Klotz Flex Drive 30 in the morning from Rocky MT. Since the stuff is pricey can I just drain the ATF out and add the Klotz and ride 20 hours? Or am I going to have to drain the ATF then add the Klotz and warm the bike up and then drain and add again to flush it of all the ATF?

 

Jimmy

 

Maybe you have something going on with your bike, i run ATF in my drag bikes and dune bikes no glitter, shifts awsome :confused:

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Thanks bansheesandrider,

I have the glitter as well when I drained the oil and that concerned me, I will order some Klotz Flex Drive 30 in the morning from Rocky MT. Since the stuff is pricey can I just drain the ATF out and add the Klotz and ride 20 hours? Or am I going to have to drain the ATF then add the Klotz and warm the bike up and then drain and add again to flush it of all the ATF?

 

Jimmy

 

Well I received my Klotz flex drive 30 and drained the ATF out and put the Klotz in. I went riding this weekend and let me tell you, the Klotz is some great oil !! It shifted smooth all day long and found neutral real easy and the clutch was smooth with NO slipping!! I know people have good luck with the ATF type F and that's good, It just didn't work for me. Thanks Bansheesandrider for turning me on to the Klotz, so far It's working bad a** !!

 

Jimmy

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Thanks bansheesandrider,

I have the glitter as well when I drained the oil and that concerned me, I will order some Klotz Flex Drive 30 in the morning from Rocky MT. Since the stuff is pricey can I just drain the ATF out and add the Klotz and ride 20 hours? Or am I going to have to drain the ATF then add the Klotz and warm the bike up and then drain and add again to flush it of all the ATF?

 

Jimmy

Since you are changing over and you seem to have glitter also, I would probably change it sooner than 20 hours the first time, just to get the rest of the ATF out and to make sure the glitter stopped. Like I said before, my bikes love the stuff and I have never had a gearbox/clutch problem using it, not even a problem with clutch balls welding to the pushrod. I am going to pancake bearings in the Bashees the next time I have them apart, just to be safe.I know some guys swear by ATF in their bikes, but it did not work for me, I know the oil is pricey, but it is cheaper than having a riding trip cut short and/or having to buy a bunch of parts and splitting cases. Hope you don't have any other problems, Good luck.

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Since you are changing over and you seem to have glitter also, I would probably change it sooner than 20 hours the first time, just to get the rest of the ATF out and to make sure the glitter stopped. Like I said before, my bikes love the stuff and I have never had a gearbox/clutch problem using it, not even a problem with clutch balls welding to the pushrod. I am going to pancake bearings in the Bashees the next time I have them apart, just to be safe.I know some guys swear by ATF in their bikes, but it did not work for me, I know the oil is pricey, but it is cheaper than having a riding trip cut short and/or having to buy a bunch of parts and splitting cases. Hope you don't have any other problems, Good luck.

 

Thanks bansheesandrider,

 

When I changed over to the Klotz I drained the ATF and then filled with Klotz and warmed the bike up and run it through the gears using the clutch on jack stands for 5 minutes or so and then drained it again and refilled with fresh Klotz. I bought enough klotz to make sure and flush the ATF out of there. I will still change it on the 20 hour mark just to be safe and after that go 30 hours or so between changes. Thanks.

 

Jimmy

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