How close is my porting to drag?

[SLORYDER]

Ok my durations, ect. are in my sig.

 

The reason I ask is I plan on having them drag ported and I was wondering how much more work I need done to them (40%, 75% more)because i'm sure it won't be full price if most of the work is done.

 

Thanks

[papa_smurf49319]

i dont port, but for what i do i hate it when customers try to help and alot of times it ends up costing them more.

 

 

Porting is like an art and who wants to try and paint over someone else picture when they can just start there own lol.

 

Reading all those books didnt make ya confident enough to just run your porting lol

 

 

 

 

 

Just givin ya some crap!

 

 

 

Cody

[mopar1rules]

i'm pretty sure durations alone aren't what dictates a "drag port". you also have to worry about wether all the ports open at the same time, or progressive. also, port roof angles, rear hook angle on secondary transfers, exhaust port roof flat or sweeping arc, and so on.

[SLORYDER]

i'm pretty sure durations alone aren't what dictates a "drag port". you also have to worry about wether all the ports open at the same time, or progressive. also, port roof angles, rear hook angle on secondary transfers, exhaust port roof flat or sweeping arc, and so on.

Ok, one more time.

How much time did I save in the grand scheme of drag porting by cutting that much off my cylinders?

And if we were talking in layman's terms, what would my porting be considered, if all I did was widen and raise my exhaust, and raise the transfers, leaving the angles the same?

[too_fazt]

Ok, one more time.

How much time did I save in the grand scheme of drag porting by cutting that much off my cylinders?

And if we were talking in layman's terms, what would my porting be considered, if all I did was widen and raise my exhaust, and raise the transfers, leaving the angles the same?

 

If u send them out the be ported by a pro, don't expect them to be giving a discount because u already did "some work"...But just think of it as this, u have cylinders that are slightly faster then stock ones now, maybe lol . Like the other guy said porting is an art.

[papa_smurf49319]

Ok, one more time.

How much time did I save in the grand scheme of drag porting by cutting that much off my cylinders?

And if we were talking in layman's terms, what would my porting be considered, if all I did was widen and raise my exhaust, and raise the transfers, leaving the angles the same?

 

If you cant understand that kind of lingo then dont go carving on your cylinders, sorry to be so blunt about it.

[jbooker82]

I doubt your saving any money. They are going to charge you the same. Your not paying for x amount of hours at 50 bucks an hour shop rate. Your paying for there KNOWLEDGE, not the physical labor involved. If anything you can be ruining your cylinders by not knowing what your doing.

[SLORYDER]

I doubt your saving any money. They are going to charge you the same. Your not paying for x amount of hours at 50 bucks an hour shop rate. Your paying for there KNOWLEDGE, not the physical labor involved. If anything you can be ruining your cylinders by not knowing what your doing.

Alright bretheren this is what I did.

Cut the exhaust to 189 duration. Cut it to 68.9% of my bore dameter. Chamfered the port.

 

I also opened up my intake and increased its duration a good bit, as well as widening the boost slightly.

Next I shipped them to a reputable builder who raised my transfers a couple mm and verified that there were no other trouble areas with the layout and work I did.

 

So. in a nutshell, I didn't just whip out a file and start hacking metal off my cylinders. I'm sorry if my previous write up exhibited some noobishness.

And I've spoken to a builder and he said it would be roughly the same.

 

So, I am still curious to know how much better it would run now compared to stock.

[papa_smurf49319]

Alright bretheren this is what I did.

Cut the exhaust to 189 duration. Cut it to 68.9% of my bore dameter. Chamfered the port.

 

I also opened up my intake and increased its duration a good bit, as well as widening the boost slightly.

Next I shipped them to a reputable builder who raised my transfers a couple mm and verified that there were no other trouble areas with the layout and work I did.

 

So. in a nutshell, I didn't just whip out a file and start hacking metal off my cylinders. I'm sorry if my previous write up exhibited some noobishness.

And I've spoken to a builder and he said it would be roughly the same.

 

So, I am still curious to know how much better it would run now compared to stock.

 

How bout ya bolt them on and you tell us?

[mopar1rules]

dude, just slap those cylinders on and give'er. i don't know why it seems like you don't want to try them out, especially after you spent all the time and $$ on them so far. i couldn't wait to throw them on. it will run alot better than stock.

[mopar1rules]

i just noticed what pipes you are running, and IMO i think you'll love how it runs. should run well.

[Burt Reynolds]

Port timing(height and floor of ports) on the exhaust and transfers is what dictates what type of port job you have trail/dune/drag.

You can cut your exhaust and transfers to a straight up trail port duration,and make them 10 foot wide and you will still have a trail port.

 

 

 

To answer your question i believe stock duration is 170 something,and drag port is like 194-196 exhaust,so your not to a drag port yet.

 

BTW i know a lot of guys that wont even cut on someone elses work.

[AKheathen]

well, you know.......i opened this really hoping to see pics, lol. that aside, bolt them mothers on and rip. kinda wide on the exhaust, how did you shape the opening? you might even run into extra cost, since you did work on it and there is lees to work with, which means they have to work harder designing it all effectively.

[SLORYDER]

well, you know.......i opened this really hoping to see pics, lol. that aside, bolt them mothers on and rip. kinda wide on the exhaust, how did you shape the opening? you might even run into extra cost, since you did work on it and there is lees to work with, which means they have to work harder designing it all effectively.

Well, the opening is pretty close to oval, I probly coulda went a little more square on it.

So after you get the intake transfer and exhaust durations up to "drag spec", about how much more hp is extracted by playing with roof angles and such?

I guess I'm nervous because before I run the bike, I want to send off the whole motor to get inspected and rebuilt. I want the bike to be decent in the drags, but if i can keep my transfers where they are and bring the exhaust up to about a 195, and still be within 5 or 10 hp of a "drag" port with drag pipesI will run with it and save the 500 bucks on porting and 550 on pipes.

Decisions decisions.

[SLORYDER]

well, you know.......i opened this really hoping to see pics, lol. that aside, bolt them mothers on and rip. kinda wide on the exhaust, how did you shape the opening? you might even run into extra cost, since you did work on it and there is lees to work with, which means they have to work harder designing it all effectively.

Well, the opening is pretty close to oval, I probly coulda went a little more square on it.

I guess I'm nervous because before I run the bike, I want to send off the whole motor to get inspected and rebuilt. I want the bike to be decent in the drags, but if i can keep my transfers where they are and bring the exhaust up to about a 195, and still be within 5 or 10 hp of a "drag" port with drag pipesI will run with it and save the 500 bucks on porting and 550 on pipes.

So after you get the intake transfer and exhaust durations up to "drag spec", about how much more hp is extracted by playing with roof angles and such?

 

Decisions decisions.