THE358BANSH Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 So I am currently in the process of building some cromoly LT +3+1 arms and I finally had to make a decision on what type of joint to use. I liked the sealed portion of the ball joint, and the strength of the heim. I ended up with a set of Janssen Motorsports billet ball joints which are the best of both worlds. Unfortunately when I ran down to get them, they only were stocking the Honda taper joint. I purchased them anyways, and figured I would do a write up on how to ream spindles since there so many questions. There aren't too many tools involved, I listed mine below... Rigid 1/2" drive cordless drill 2" over 1' tapered reamer Honda taper joint of your choice Some 3/4" masking tape Press(spindle shaft install only) As you can see in the first pic, the honda taper stud does not fully seat in the spindle. The reamer will pilot off the hole in the spindle currently. Just take your first one slow and steady while checking the fit of the joint multiple times as not to ream too far. When determining the depth of the ream, you need to pay attention to the threaded portion of the stud. I reamed until there was approximately a 1/32"-1/16" step from the end of the taper to the face of the spindle where the nut rests. This is an important step as to still allow the taper to seat in the spindle for a proper fit. After you determine the correct depth, use some masking tape wrapped around the ream to mark your depth for the remaining holes as seen above. Had to continue everything below 'cuz of HQ rules... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE358BANSH Posted March 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Next up was the LoneStar Spindle shafts I used a V-Block and a hammer to pound the old shaft out New shaft next to the old one and the spindle all sandblasted and cleaned up I smeared some grease on both the shaft and the spindle and used the press to drive it home Back together A couple random pictures of the ball joints and the completed spindle/hub assembly Disassembled Back together All in all I am really impressed with the ball joint. The lower is a 3/4"-16 billet steel version and the upper is the same size/thread just made of aluminum. They are fully rebuild-able if the time ever comes for about 12 dollars a joint. How did I do? Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 nice writeup man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulvafan537240 Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 (edited) . Edited March 2, 2010 by volfan537240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Nice write-up! awesome looking joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansheeb0y5505 Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 Hey dude. How many degrees is the angle of your reamer? Is it by any chance 7* or 3.5 on each side? If it is, is there ANY chance of maybe I can possibly borrow it from you and ship it right back when im done with it? I need to ream my spindles and they are way expensive for me to just do 2 spindles. BTW that shee looks sick with the fox floats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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