duaneh Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 For the t-5's you have it is better to port it mildly. Besides it doesnt matter what you call a port job the porter will and should port for the pipes you have. So call it a t5 port job. If you had some shearer inframes on it then im sure kevin would give it his dune port. He knows what he is doing and just trust him. If you tell him what you want he will do it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 For the t-5's you have it is better to port it mildly. Besides it doesnt matter what you call a port job the porter will and should port for the pipes you have. So call it a t5 port job. If you had some shearer inframes on it then im sure kevin would give it his dune port. He knows what he is doing and just trust him. If you tell him what you want he will do it for you. T5's are perfictly capable of supporting a dune port. They are a mid to top end pipe so why wouldnt they be good for a port job that is mid to top. They wont have as much pull on the top end as CPI's but they will have a better midrange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klever209 Posted February 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 Thanks again you guys. In talking Kevin last night I think I've settled on getting the MX/hardcore port work with the 4 mil build. I just wanted to know if there was some sort of dyno chart data available so that I could compare the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbcmudtruck Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 Listen to Kevin, he won't steer you in the wrong direction. To add what Burt Reynolds said though, you need to get totally commited to this build to get everything out of it. You need a bunch of stuff for everything to work at its potential. I'm not trying to scare you out of the 4mil, but rather giving you a heads up. Things you will need in addition to your portwork: 4 mil crank, extra weld, and upgraded maxload bearings. New seal kit. You will need a new clutch, I would recomend the FAST clutch hands down. Billet basket, I would put in new inner and outer clutch hubs as well, for $50 bucks why not. Pancake bearing You should go ahead and mod the transmisson parts while your in there. You should also go ahead and let Kevin port match the cases. Carbs, let Kevin help you decide on which carbs to run. Intakes for the new carbs. Filters for the new carbs. Domes cut for the 4mil and new orings. This list could go on for a while but I'm sure your getting the point. Once you get this list a little closer to completed your going to be very happy with your motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted February 20, 2010 Report Share Posted February 20, 2010 x2 its just not worth it unless you go all the way. Once you get it there though they are great bikes. Make sure you do a cut dome setup and not a spacer plate setup. there more than motor here too,with a proper 4mil if you have a stock swinger you will have a wheelie machine. 4mils can be brutaly fast though. We have a "safe" drag ported 4mil,with cpi inframes,+2 swinger,35mm pwk'sect,ect,and i swear to g on pavement in 4th gear at about 50mph you can seriously flip it backwards at will without pulling up. Its a fun ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klever209 Posted February 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 Listen to Kevin, he won't steer you in the wrong direction. To add what Burt Reynolds said though, you need to get totally commited to this build to get everything out of it. You need a bunch of stuff for everything to work at its potential. I'm not trying to scare you out of the 4mil, but rather giving you a heads up. Things you will need in addition to your portwork: 4 mil crank, extra weld, and upgraded maxload bearings. New seal kit. You will need a new clutch, I would recomend the FAST clutch hands down. Billet basket, I would put in new inner and outer clutch hubs as well, for $50 bucks why not. Pancake bearing You should go ahead and mod the transmisson parts while your in there. You should also go ahead and let Kevin port match the cases. Carbs, let Kevin help you decide on which carbs to run. Intakes for the new carbs. Filters for the new carbs. Domes cut for the 4mil and new orings. This list could go on for a while but I'm sure your getting the point. Once you get this list a little closer to completed your going to be very happy with your motor! Thanks bbcmudtruck. I am going to send my motor over to Kevin and have him to do the whole thing. I do have a brand new Barnett Clutch and pancake bearing in there that I plan on leaving until it burns up and will be replacing the basket with a billet piece for the mean time. As far as the intake side goes, well I'm relying on Kevin to steer me in the right direction so that everything is hooked up the right way. Like I told him, I want bragging rights next time I'm out riding. And I plan to go to Pismo Beach for Easter Weekend. What trans mods are you referring to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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