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banshee not starting properly


newfierider

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hey every one im new to this site and new to banshee's i just picked up a 2003 banshee that needed the rings done,, i did them and the banshee will only start if i prime it but it doesnt idle,, if i prime it and jump on and go it will work fine but when i let go of the gas it dies out and i have to prime it to start it again,,, what do I do???? please help me get my banshee up and runnin good ,, thanks!!

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We need more info, what has been done to it? Has the TORS been removed properly? If the TORS carb tops have been removed, then have the carbs been drilled and tapped for idle screws on the carb body? If all of this was done properly, then is the rubber hose that connects the carbs by the choke in place? Do the carbs have the correct float bowls on them? The left bowl is different than the right bowl because of the way the choke works. Have the carbs been cleaned recently or are they full of trash and gunk? Are you properly jetted on all circuits of the carb? Do you have good strong spark? Check on this stuff and get back to us.

Edited by bansheesandrider
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We need more info, what has been done to it? Has the TORS been removed properly? If the TORS carb tops have been removed, then have the carbs been drilled and tapped for idle screws on the carb body? If all of this was done properly, then is the rubber hose that connects the carbs by the choke in place? Do the carbs have the correct float bowls on them? The left bowl is different than the right bowl because of the way the choke works. Have the carbs been cleaned recently or are they full of trash and gunk? Are you properly jetted on all circuits of the carb? Do you have good strong spark? Check on this stuff and get back to us.

 

the banshee is completly stock, only thing i did to it was change rings, it has strong spark, i had the carb s apart and they were clean, the only way i can get her started is by priming it through the tube that connects the carbs but she wont idle,,

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the banshee is completly stock, only thing i did to it was change rings, it has strong spark, i had the carb s apart and they were clean, the only way i can get her started is by priming it through the tube that connects the carbs but she wont idle,,

Do you still have the TORS system on it and hooked up? Did you check for air leaks? Did you get the float bowls mixd up when you had the carbs apart?

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Do you still have the TORS system on it and hooked up? Did you check for air leaks? Did you get the float bowls mixd up when you had the carbs apart?

 

ok you might think im stupid for askin this but wat the hell is the TORS system,, i am completly new to the banshee i only bought it about a month ago,, and i had the carbs apart sepratly so didnt get nothin mixed up,and i will look for air leaks,,and im going to a compression test on her what compression should i get??

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ok you might think im stupid for askin this but wat the hell is the TORS system,, i am completly new to the banshee i only bought it about a month ago,, and i had the carbs apart sepratly so didnt get nothin mixed up,and i will look for air leaks,,and im going to a compression test on her what compression should i get??

 

ok i was just talking to the guy i bought it off and he said he had the carbs ajusted for the low compresion the banshee had before i changed the rings so would that be the trouble with mine and i seen that on another forum same problems and they said to adjust the carbs up and she should work perfect.

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tors is the throttle overide system. its located on the top of each carburator.

if you still have it, get a tors rem. kit.

 

ok thats wat i thought it was,, y do you have to remove it,, wat does it do to the bike,, and do you think that the carbs are my problem?? the guy i got the banshee off said he was fuckin around wit the carbs so it would run with the low compression,, but i changed the rings now so she got good compression,,

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ok thats wat i thought it was,, y do you have to remove it,, wat does it do to the bike,, and do you think that the carbs are my problem?? the guy i got the banshee off said he was fuckin around wit the carbs so it would run with the low compression,, but i changed the rings now so she got good compression,,

You disable the TORS system because it is very problematic, it can cause the bike not to run. You disable it by unplugging the little black box to the left of the coil under the gas tank. You remove the TORS system because it is heavy and a bunch of clutter that makes working on your carbs more difficult. You remove it by buying a removal kit that has neww carb tops, a new throttle cable for either the stock thumb throttle or a twist throttle, and idle screws that you have to drill and tap the carb body to install.

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You disable the TORS system because it is very problematic, it can cause the bike not to run. You disable it by unplugging the little black box to the left of the coil under the gas tank. You remove the TORS system because it is heavy and a bunch of clutter that makes working on your carbs more difficult. You remove it by buying a removal kit that has neww carb tops, a new throttle cable for either the stock thumb throttle or a twist throttle, and idle screws that you have to drill and tap the carb body to install.

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You disable the TORS system because it is very problematic, it can cause the bike not to run. You disable it by unplugging the little black box to the left of the coil under the gas tank. You remove the TORS system because it is heavy and a bunch of clutter that makes working on your carbs more difficult. You remove it by buying a removal kit that has neww carb tops, a new throttle cable for either the stock thumb throttle or a twist throttle, and idle screws that you have to drill and tap the carb body to install.

'

 

ok but the guy i bought the banshee off said it had low compression and instead of changing the rings and fixing the problem he said he fucked with the carbs so the bike would run with the low compression,, but i changed the rings rite after i bought it so do you think that the carbs are my problem??

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it sounds like a carb issue, which could be a number of things. as far as starting the right side carb bowl has a 'starter jet' in the bottom of it. if you have the bowls switched it will make for hard starting. make sure your crossover tube betweent the carbs is on. make sure you don't have the slides in backwards. the back side is cut out higher to allow it to flow at idle. check float height. put the needle clip in the middle notch. air screws 2 turns out. check the jet sizes and let us know what's in it. if he changed the jet sizes that could be the problem also.

 

did you check compression after putting the new rings in?

Edited by MILO
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it sounds like a carb issue, which could be a number of things. as far as starting the right side carb bowl has a 'starter jet' in the bottom of it. if you have the bowls switched it will make for hard starting. make sure your crossover tube betweent the carbs is on. make sure you don't have the slides in backwards. the back side is cut out higher to allow it to flow at idle. check float height. put the needle clip in the middle notch. air screws 2 turns out. check the jet sizes and let us know what's in it. if he changed the jet sizes that could be the problem also.

 

did you check compression after putting the new rings in?

 

wat should the compression be i checked it and its a little over 90 on each side, and i was talkin to the guy i got it off he said he was playin with the needles, and the bike wont start unless i prime it, then it will only stay going if i play wit the choke and throttle, but if i start it and jump on and go it will stay going as long as im on the gas but soon as i let go of the gas it craps out on me

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90 is considerably low. a lot of guys will rebuild at around 110 or so. 120-125 is about normal for stock top end in good shape. i would take it to a reputable shop and get the cylinders checked out. if it's that low with new rings then you probably need a fresh bore & hone. make sure if you get the cylinder work done they have the pistons on hand to match them to ensure a proper fit. a normal top end rebuild should run around $300, give or take. you might as well go with Wiseco's or something rather than stock also. of course there's all kinds of options for the rebuild, pretty much limited only by your budget. but i would say you are definitely in for at least a fresh top end.

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90 is considerably low. a lot of guys will rebuild at around 110 or so. 120-125 is about normal for stock top end in good shape. i would take it to a reputable shop and get the cylinders checked out. if it's that low with new rings then you probably need a fresh bore & hone. make sure if you get the cylinder work done they have the pistons on hand to match them to ensure a proper fit. a normal top end rebuild should run around $300, give or take. you might as well go with Wiseco's or something rather than stock also. of course there's all kinds of options for the rebuild, pretty much limited only by your budget. but i would say you are definitely in for at least a fresh top end.

 

I'm gonna get another compresssion tester just to make sure before i do that but if i give her a fresh bore n hone i would have to get bigger pistons rite? and wat size are the cylinders of a stock banshee?

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