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Banshee wont start


zr2highrider

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My friend just got a 99' banshee. Has V force 2 cages and carbon fiber reeds, T5's, .50 overbore, No airbox - has K&N's on carbs, No TORS and the rest is stock. He basicly got it in pieces and just got it back together. Thing is that he had to get carbs (let him use my spare stock set). Elevation here in LV is 900 ft above sea level. Its around 35* here and he wants to know what kind of jets to use now and in the summer. Im still kinda stumped on my own jetting let alone his. Enough about his, now mine.

 

I got pretty much the same setup (few things diffrent - bigger bore, aftermarket clutch, ect.). Its hard as hell to start still but runs like a champ. Running 320 mains. 32:1 Lucas oil, and runnin pump gas. Should I step it up on the pilots? (they are stock i believe and yes my carbs are clean)

 

 

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T5 loves the 27.5 I would start the air screw 1-1/2 turns out from seat. Mains should be fine and I would put the needles in the middle for starting. Also make sure the carbs are as close as you can get them to be synced. DONT use starting fluid. If you have to us some sort of starter, us the gas your trying to run in it if it is fresh! I just use an old spray bottle. Make sure you have fresh plugs as well and that you are getting spark. I just have someone kick my bike over while I hold the end of the plug to a good ground point on the motor and watch for spark. If you dont have anyone. Just take out both plugs and it should be easy enough to turn over by hand.

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Ya thats what i have been doing to start it. i just use an old squirt ketchup bottle and fill it up with some fresh 32:1. A lil' squirt in the back of each carb and it fires right up on first or second kick. Def getting good spark....shocked the shit outa me (not thinkin). Plugs are clean. Gettin some new pilots here in a few day.

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About 2 weeks ago. Set to Clymer repair manual stock height. Both carbs are sync'd. Have needle set one click to the rich side. Thought it was a ignition issue but got that solved. It really rips with no bogs or anything. Wished it had some more lower end but i hear that these just dont have that much low end grunt (just came from a cr250 that was pretty torquey). The only problem that I have it its just hard to start. Starts right up when the engine is warm but when its a cold start, it litterally puts holes in the bottom of my boot from kickin it so much.

Starting procedure:

Kick 20+ time and get tired

Squirt a lil premix in both carbs

Starts almost instantly

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i'm going through the same thing. just picked up an 05 with fmf fatty pipes and two stage reeds. doesnt start for crap. once its started dont feel like riding. just tore a carb apart and has 260 mains and 25 pilot. read an article and according to it i should ballpark with 300 mains and 30 pilots. does this sound half ass close? gonna try to pick some jets up tomorrow. runs like a striped ape when its warmed up. idles great starts great warm. one kick. all points to lean to me so i'm at least gonna try the pilots cuz it runs good on top.

Edited by skj283
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Got to thinking. If it is hard to start but starts easy when warm... I would check the compression. Also, if you dont have an air meter gauge. Then the carbs aren't synced right. I have tried the eye watching and then tried the carb window and they are were all off when I put the air meter gauge to them. I have also found that having them synced with the air gauge that i have gained my bottom end back. So when people say that a banshee doesnt have bottom end. It is BS. Then they dont have it tuned right. Hope this helps. But really look into the compression. If one side is off more then 5psi more then the other. It will be time for a rebuild-new rings. Depending on how hard I ride a year. Just a light hone and new rings will bring up the compression. But you have to make sure you check with the manufacturer guide for ring gap.

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Got to thinking. If it is hard to start but starts easy when warm... I would check the compression. Also, if you dont have an air meter gauge. Then the carbs aren't synced right. I have tried the eye watching and then tried the carb window and they are were all off when I put the air meter gauge to them. I have also found that having them synced with the air gauge that i have gained my bottom end back. So when people say that a banshee doesnt have bottom end. It is BS. Then they dont have it tuned right. Hope this helps. But really look into the compression. If one side is off more then 5psi more then the other. It will be time for a rebuild-new rings. Depending on how hard I ride a year. Just a light hone and new rings will bring up the compression. But you have to make sure you check with the manufacturer guide for ring gap.

 

He is comparing bottom end from a CR250 that has a power valve.So compared to that a Banshee has no bottom end.Really there just two 175 engines.So no your not going to have alot of bottom end.You ever ride a 125 2-Stroke?You got to keep them reved to the moon to make power.

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as far as syncing goes could you just use two vacuum gauges and tune until they match? i already have one and they are inexpensive and could grab another if that is all that you are essentially doing when you sync them.

 

also do banshee's have coated cylinders? do you use a dingle ball hone or can you use a regular deglazing hone such as what is used on automotive. as i have one of those that would fit but not a ball hone.

 

lastly does a 27.5 pilot sound too big for a bike with nothing more than pipes and reeds?

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as far as syncing goes could you just use two vacuum gauges and tune until they match? i already have one and they are inexpensive and could grab another if that is all that you are essentially doing when you sync them.

 

also do banshee's have coated cylinders? do you use a dingle ball hone or can you use a regular deglazing hone such as what is used on automotive. as i have one of those that would fit but not a ball hone.

 

lastly does a 27.5 pilot sound too big for a bike with nothing more than pipes and reeds?

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for what its worth, today i put the banshee back together. have 27.5 pilots 280 mains, still couldnt get it to hit a lick. air screws 1.5 turns from seat. but, and a big but, i think im closer. i kicked it about 25 times and had nothin. yanked the air filter shot some carb cleaner down each carb, and the ol girl hit first kick and idled great. so i'm really leaning towards my choke not doing its part. is there any adjustment one can make to change its action? the thing didnt even try to die once it started, and i was able to turn the choke off pretty quick.

 

with it warmed up when i pull the choke out it revs up slightly, but if i turn the air screws in any it pulls the engine down. this seems contradictary. does anyone have an explanation of how the choke works on this bike? does it have some kinda fuel bypass it opens up? i unscrewed it and all the choke itself is, is basically a needle.

 

the pilot jet change and carb adjustment cleaned up it idle and off idle circuits greatly. has great response now and doesnt pop anymore on decelleration. like i said if i can figue this choke circuit out i think i will be golden.

 

i have a tors kit coming, when i pull carbs to install idle screws it think i'm gonna pull the reed cages cuz this bike is supposed to have reeds in it, and in my experience anything thats been changed is a good place to start. and i have the tors unplugged for now at the brain box

Edited by skj283
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