Keyser Soze Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) Engine is at my builder (T-shee) for inspection and rebuild. There is a lot of side to side play in my crank. Ive been interested in doing a 4mil for awhile. Ive seen the spacer plate kits on e-bay for $650. I even seen a complete kit sell with no reserve for $330. The no reserve listing did not have a name listed for the crank and the pistons looked to be off brand so I think i'll stay away. If I just do a basic rebuild by the time I buy a crank $300, and good pistons $175 i'm already in $500 bucks with gaskets ect. My jugs have been ported but I have no clue who ported them. The porting looks to be professional. Ive heard gains are minimal with a spacer plate set up. At some point I would have the jugs port matched and have everything done right. I just blew my wad on some full flight a-arms and a PCed frame, so it will have to wait. So anyways my questions Any harm in going with a 4-mil spacer plate set up for time being? Will I be putting out so much more power I will need a billit basket? High dollar clutch? Pancake bearing? I'm currently running 28mm flatslide mikuni's, will I need bigger carbs even for a spacer plate set up? Edited January 22, 2010 by jugriggs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNR101 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) you can run the spacer plate setup no harm done with your current setup you will gain hp.. but you will gain alot more hp after you port it and ditch the plate if your clutch is good.. and cash is tight it will do till it begins to slip depends what port you go with.. your 28s could be fine later to Edited January 22, 2010 by GNR101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 I would just build it now using a cool head with stroker domes. Then look for another pair of cylinders to be sent out to be setup for the 4mill long rod. Chances are that your cylinders wont be able to be reported for a 4mill unless it isnt a very agressive port job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Soze Posted January 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 I would just build it now using a cool head with stroker domes. Then look for another pair of cylinders to be sent out to be setup for the 4mill long rod. Chances are that your cylinders wont be able to be reported for a 4mill unless it isnt a very agressive port job. Dang I was curious about that to. My porting is pretty aggressive. Price check on cool head 20cc stoker domes? Price check to have stock head modded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbcmudtruck Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 If your going to build a 4mil, do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. You will save yourself money and headache! You can pick up a nice used cool head for $150 and stroker domes for $50 if your patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewski Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 X2 on doing it right the first time. Who would want to get their doors blown off by a real 4mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) My opinion is find some used stock bore juggs, get them ported to match your riding as well as a 4mil stroker set up. No spacer plate needed with 795 pistons with a longrod i think. That's what i did! As said, do it once, do it right. mine is too fun Edited January 22, 2010 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 The 795 series pistons compensate for the long rod. The spacer plate (or cut domes) is what compensates for the added stroke. And no one has mentioned the pancake bearing. EVERY Banshee should have a pancake bearing in place. You can weld the ball/rod on a stocker. It's just piss poor design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 As far as the carbs go, I ran the stock carbs on mine at first and they ran great, almost no difference between my 35's. J-Madd, I did not install a pancake bearing, would I have to split the case to install one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert0762 Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 As far as the carbs go, I ran the stock carbs on mine at first and they ran great, almost no difference between my 35's. J-Madd, I did not install a pancake bearing, would I have to split the case to install one? dont have to split cases just pull clutch cover and outer pressure plate to install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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