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is it a bad idea?


banshee racer #113

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what would you guys think about flipping the front wheels and drilling a new hole for the valve stem on the opposite side for some extra width? would the wheel still be strong enough also? and if so how would you recommend covering the old valve stem hole?

 

I've thought the same thing. Some people have said that you'd get a shit ton of bump steer. I looked at some offset douglas wheels on my buddy's shee, and they didn't look too far from where my factory wheels would be, flipped. My plan was to do exactly what you are saying. Drill a new hole directly opposite the factory stem. To plug the hole, just run another valve stem inside out in the factory hole. I'd be interested to see if anyone has done this, and if not, maybe i'll just pick up another set of stock wheels and try it.

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Why bother with the valve? How often do you check pressure, and its not like it would be that hard to get to.

Just flip them, and if you dont like it, flip em back.

because the front calipers will rip the valve stem out and you will have two flat tires in 30 seconds.

 

I have done this on a set of dougless blue labels before but I flipped them so they had less off set (narrower for drag racing) been runnin um for 3 years like that with no problem.

 

I say go for it man if ya dont like it just flip um back

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i havent tried it on my shee but i have a warrior with a streetbike motor on it and it came with the fronts flipped it jast has real short valvstems on it, id look into short stems b4 drilling any hole in my rims :cheers:

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i havent tried it on my shee but i have a warrior with a streetbike motor on it and it came with the fronts flipped it jast has real short valvstems on it, id look into short stems b4 drilling any hole in my rims :cheers:

 

There's only about 1/4" clearance from the caliper with the stock wheel. the only way to do it without the stem rubbing is to invert it and run another valve stem. I'm going to mess with it today and see if I can figure out a way to either move the position of the stem, or something else. I like the look of having no valve stem visible. Maybe a 90 degree stem turned in toward the hub would do the trick?

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There's only about 1/4" clearance from the caliper with the stock wheel. the only way to do it without the stem rubbing is to invert it and run another valve stem. I'm going to mess with it today and see if I can figure out a way to either move the position of the stem, or something else. I like the look of having no valve stem visible. Maybe a 90 degree stem turned in toward the hub would do the trick?

 

 

Just found these on ebay... 90 degree valve stems

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If I recall correctly for the flush valve stems it's a 3/8" hole that I drill.

 

 

According to Summit's eBay ad:

 

"Notes Designed for large 5/8" valve stem holes, will not fit standard 7/16" diameter holes."

 

edit:

 

This is the same part number G1958: eLame

Edited by MattSCESC
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HOLY SHIT! I was on the ice today and had my buddy helpin me hit my points and while we were messin with the sway bar we talked about flippin the wheels and we actually tried it and found out about the stems rubbing. figured I'd hunt some 90 degree valve stems and ironically the hq solved that issue.

But for real I think spacers would be more adequate, and if not I'm already savin up for some +3+1 arms to fix any width issues.

Plus Nos_350x is a true flattrack racer and he says the offset kinda hurt handling, so gotta find alternate to flippin any way.

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Alright, the flip is done. Instead of flipping the stem, I used an o-ringed nut/bolt. Tack welded the nut to the bolt so it cant back off. I pressurized the tire to 25lbs, and no leaks. Not sure how it rides yet, but I'll give it a shot. I'm going to get a pic of my buddy's ITP wheels. With the shee wheels flipped, it is almost identical to the ITP's offset.

 

WheelFlip.gif

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