MatHolland Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 I just got my banshee, and paid for next day air on my stator that it needs, it will be here around noon. I have been waiting on this because I really want to ride it, I just got it, and I have never heard it run haha. I forgot all about the nut on the flywheel. When I got it, the stator had been removed, and never thought about the nut holding the flywheel on. I didn't get the nut with it. I have called every shop around, and they don't have the nut in stock, they would have to order it. My question is, will a 14mm fine thread nut work, or is it a special nut that I have to have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasJeff Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 I just got my banshee, and paid for next day air on my stator that it needs, it will be here around noon. I have been waiting on this because I really want to ride it, I just got it, and I have never heard it run haha. I forgot all about the nut on the flywheel. When I got it, the stator had been removed, and never thought about the nut holding the flywheel on. I didn't get the nut with it. I have called every shop around, and they don't have the nut in stock, they would have to order it. My question is, will a 14mm fine thread nut work, or is it a special nut that I have to have? definately order the one that is designed for the bike.you waited this long to hear it,whats a couple more days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 it's a reverse threaded nut if I recall correcty. Sorry it's been awhile since I have messed with my bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 definately order the one that is designed for the bike.you waited this long to hear it,whats a couple more days? I just now posted it, I am at college. Thats the whole point why I paid 30 bucks for overnight shipping is to get it running. isn't a nut a nut? This doesn't say anything about it being left handed thread. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 I just now posted it, I am at college. Thats the whole point why I paid 30 bucks for overnight shipping is to get it running. isn't a nut a nut? This doesn't say anything about it being left handed thread. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html No, the nut is not LH thread, but the puller is. You can certainly go find a nut to get you going but remember to install a washer under it. To say that all nuts are the same, that is not really the case. Many different fits, pitches, etc. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 well yeah haha, I know that. But I meant assuming you get one that fits it, is there a difference in one that the honda shop can get? And Also, thank you!!! That is the answer I am looking for. I live in a small town and drive an hour and a half to a pretty big town for school. I was trying to get that information so I can go find a place over here that has a bolt. So I just need a 14mm fine thread bolt and a washer correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T_Shee Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 nut. but yea you just need to find out the exact thread pitch. there are at least 3 different pitches for metric and to just say fine thread may not be right. maybe one of the shops you talked to can tell you the pitch of the threads you need. then youll be good to go. put loctite on it also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WantABanshee Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 great looking banshee man... find a nut that fits and your golden how'd it go? u get it running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Thanks. Yeah, i found a nut thanks to the guy above. He sent me a pm with the correct specs of the nut. 12x1.25. I got that and a washer and got it on there. Well sort of.... I got it on and everything and it started right up. It was nearly out of gas. It died just when i had the choke on in the garage, and reving it up a little. I thought hmm im out of gas. So I mix me some 32:1 klotz oil, and went and got some 91 prem. gas. I poured the gas in, and went to start it, and it started up again. It slowly like revved down and died. So I thought plugs. I take the plugs out and they were a little wet. So i clean the plugs, put them back in and she wont start. I checked for a spark, it checked out fine. For some reason (its really colg here) the motor was still cold, but I had been trying to start it. I hear a really loud pop?? So I pull the right plug, then the left. The left side there is a little bit of smoke comming from it where i took the plug out? I am going to pull the stator cover off again, and check the gap, and flywheel nut. Will post back with what I find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 The flywheel is designed to press onto the crank. the key on the crank is only to align the flywheel, it does not hold the flywheel in place or prevent it from spinning on the crank. The correct torque is required to press the flywheel onto the crank. If you're not getting it torqued down correctly, your flywheel might be spinning on the crank, and might have already sheared the key. Are you using an impact gun or electric impact to put the nut on? I'd just go to cascadeinnovations.net and order the correct nut and just wait and do the job the right way. The factory nut is a flange nut, not just your average store-bought nut. Do it right, and order the correct part for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 The flywheel is designed to press onto the crank. the key on the crank is only to align the flywheel, it does not hold the flywheel in place or prevent it from spinning on the crank. The correct torque is required to press the flywheel onto the crank. If you're not getting it torqued down correctly, your flywheel might be spinning on the crank, and might have already sheared the key. Are you using an impact gun or electric impact to put the nut on? I'd just go to cascadeinnovations.net and order the correct nut and just wait and do the job the right way. The factory nut is a flange nut, not just your average store-bought nut. Do it right, and order the correct part for the job. X2, you probably sheared the key. I have never been able to keep a flywheel on without either torquing it or zapping it with an impact. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Get the correct flange nut from Yamaha and torque it to spec properly with loctite on the threads. While you are ordering the nut, also order a new flywheel key so yiu know everything is as it should be. I would also get a service manual for it so you have all the specs. Alot of guys on here prefer the Clymers manual, but I prefer the OEM Yamaha book myself. The Clymers is cheaper, but the Yamaha shows all the specs, where to use loctite and other recomendations. REMEMBER< IT IS ALWAYS CHEAPER TO DO IT CORRECT THE FIRST TIME, than it is to do it wrong once and have to redo it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) I couldn't get a flywheel holder around here. No one around here had one so I used an John Deere 12v impact on it. It rates at like one hundred something on torque. I zapped it, i didn't hold it on there to tighten it over 100 haha. I took it apart and everything still seemed tight. It's getting gas. Plugs are wet if you kick it over a few times. Plugs are still getting spark. I checked the gap and its .016 What I don't get is why did it run ok for just a bit then all of a suddon it wouldn't start. I never even got a chance to ride it haha. I also checked the gap on the plugs, and they are fine. Do I need to order a key and a bolt then or is that what it even is? Edited December 8, 2009 by MatHolland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Still have the parking brake? Ever messed with your wiring harness at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 I just got this quad, so I haven't messed with it. It wasn't running when I got it. Like I said it had a spark, so I don't think it would be sheared would it? The wiring has been messed with. The wires comming out of the carbs have been cut. There is no parking brake. Theres some switch the is hoooked up by the kick lever. There is a spring on it and it pulls down, but its not connected to anything? Im kinda thinking a wiring problem. Because it has a spark, its getting fuel. Has good compression as well, havent used a compression tester, but it will shove your finger off if you pull a plug and put your finger over the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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