projectbanshee Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 hey guys need some advice. ive been wanting to make my banshee a drag bike i wanted to go with a 4mil but im not sure wat to go with for rods and pistons. the bike is guna be a full drag bike. plz enlighten me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 If you're staying with the stock cylinders, I'd recommend the Hotrods 4mil 115 rod crank and Wiseco 795 series longrod pistons. Set it up to run without a spacer by cutting the stock head or using a billet head with stroker domes. What are your current mods and what kind of budget are you looking to put into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drag mx66 Posted December 5, 2009 Report Share Posted December 5, 2009 (edited) It depends on how much u wana spend.(like wildcard said) I started with the 4mill but like alwYs its never fast enough. Im at a 14mill alky on spray racing on asphalt. Shouldve just gone big the first time. Lol Edited December 5, 2009 by drag mx66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
projectbanshee Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 If you're staying with the stock cylinders, I'd recommend the Hotrods 4mil 115 rod crank and Wiseco 795 series longrod pistons. Set it up to run without a spacer by cutting the stock head or using a billet head with stroker domes. What are your current mods and what kind of budget are you looking to put into it? well i actually was thinking of going with a cub or a supercub. wat would you recommend for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I would go cub over super cub. I haven't seen the super run any more impressive than the cub, and with the super cub you're going to have to buy more expensive pistons (72mm) and the head is it's own design, it is not a standard banshee bolt pattern. If you were going to go 72mm super cub, I'd rather go 10mm cub with a 68 mm piston if it were me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
projectbanshee Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 I would go cub over super cub. I haven't seen the super run any more impressive than the cub, and with the super cub you're going to have to buy more expensive pistons (72mm) and the head is it's own design, it is not a standard banshee bolt pattern. If you were going to go 72mm super cub, I'd rather go 10mm cub with a 68 mm piston if it were me... alright so lets say i go wit the 4mil cub. should i port the cubs and wat rods and pistons should i run also wat do i do as far as the head goes. and thanks for all the info so far oh and wat gas... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 if your gonna go 4mill cub, I would get it ported... there is more to be had out of the as cast setup... not as much as a set of stockers, but there is more in them, the 4mill cubs use a 115 rod and they use a 68mm blaster piston, the cub cylinders are taller than stockers so you dont have to run a spacer plate or cut into the domes, you can run a stock head on a cab if you have it milled and rechambered for the big bore, or you can run big bore domes with an aftermarket head, I would pick a site sponsor on here and give him a call, talk it over with him as far as what you plan on doing with the bike etc... they should be able to get ya the right crank, rods, pistons, domes etc.... they should also be able to help ya out with bike setup... because any good racers knows that just because you have a 100hp motor, dont mean its gonna be fast without the correct chassis setup.... if you plan on drag only, alky is the only way to fly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 for asphalt youre gonna need some pretty big power numbers. i would consider building a 10mm cub right off the start. the money isnt too crazy on them and they run hard. ive had mine for 4 years now and its been a great motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 If you have the extra loot, I'd go 10 as well. The crank and case work set you back a little more, all the rest will be the same. That longer stroke really gets you moving down the track easier....and it's easier to go fast on. Don't get me wrong, 4 mils run like hell and dollar for dollar they're a great motor, but the 10 mil has a little more legs upstairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster_M3 Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 hey cuz i think i smell a 10mil alky setup comming!!! the question is do you think its worth the $$$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 badassbanshee and I race at the same tracks and against each other quite often. Friendly rivalry at the track... He's got a 4 mil drag ported by FAST, I have a 10 mil drag ported by HJR. He and I are both 250 lbs plus. He will normally run within a tenth of my time at the strip. His 4 mil is very impressive and rock solid. But he's rode my bike a few times, I think he'd agree, it's easier to go fast on and pulls a big guy a little better than a 4 mil. Figure a 10 mil crank is going to set you back an extra 300 to 500 over a new 4 mil, and case work is 75 to 150 bucks to trench the cases. I think the 4 and 10 mil cub are the best bang for the buck for a drag bike. I think porting by a reputable builder is well worth it, I gained a solid tenth on my bike just from changing porting alone. I ran mine for 2 straight years with only the casting flaws cleaned up by me. This last season I had it ported and it pulled harder up top and averaged a tenth faster in 300 foot at the same tracks I've ridden the previous two years. Porting a cub vs. a set of stockers is no comparison, the cubs are that good out of the box. But...you can still squeeze extra power out of them. It's just not on the same scale as stockers vs. drag ported stockers. What's nice about the cub is you can buy a cylinder (like other aftermarket cylinders as well) that is built/casted for your crank and rod combo instead of a spacer plate, cut domes, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 I have a 10mm cub and my brother just sold his 4mm cub. My 10mm had a noticeable power increase from the 4mm. His 4mm ran fucking awesome, but it definitely lacked a little grunt. When the power comes on the 10mm cub, you better hold on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster_M3 Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 Project banshee is my cusin while he is building his drag shee im planning on building my much milder set-up. i have quick quation for u guys in comparison what would make more power? 68mm bored stock cylinder or cub 68mm?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee332 Posted December 10, 2009 Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 (edited) Project banshee is my cusin while he is building his drag shee im planning on building my much milder set-up. i have quick quation for u guys in comparison what would make more power? 68mm bored stock cylinder or cub 68mm?? a cub hands down, now if you where to have a builder put triple ports in the stock cylinders with a wild drag port and just clean the cub up and would be close. I have seen stock cylinder motors keep up with cubs Edited December 10, 2009 by banshee332 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 In the hands of the very best builders, you could make stockers run that good. But the time and money you had invested in the stockers, the cub would be quicker and more efficient. I can tell you any builder worth their salt is not going to get stock cylinders competitive with a cub for a few hundo...it's going to be expensive. Once you big bore sleeve the stockers (and to go 68mm, you will need to) you cut into the transfer area. That's why you see the bulges on the sides of the cubs, to allow the bigger bore and keep a reasonable transfer area/volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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