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STROKING IT!


yfz450eater

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Kinda know what im doing but i want to stroke my banshee its a 2000 i need to know how big i can go without having to do machine work to the bottom end some people say 4mm and some say 5mm.I've been looking at kits but i just had fresh top end and jugs ported and polished so i want to go without re-doing top end 2. So if i just buy a 4 or 5 mil crank what else will i need spacer plates and what not i know i will need seals.

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stroker crank

795 series pistons

you can run spacer plate but i prefer running a cool head with stroker domes.

 

 

and im sure anything over +7 mil you need to machine the case. I ran a +4 mil with cool head and stroker domes.

 

CORRECTION on a 5 mil setup you have to machine the case a little bit so i would say 4 mil short rod

Edited by 4strokekilla1987
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what is the difference going to be in the long and short rod...and ive seen 2 different kinds of cranks regular and stroker crank what is the difference with them

 

 

What are you expecting out of this motor? What kind of riding?

 

TO answer the questions: +4 mil will fit fine without trenching the cases...long rod or short rod makes no difference there. I have also heard that the +5 mil will fit, but that would be a rare, probably more expensive build.

Short rod vs. long rod: Long rod eases the side load on the piston, therefore theoretically increasing longevity vs. the short rod. Some claim that the short rod motors rev quicker, due to decreased rotating mass. This has not been proven.

 

I'd go with long rod.

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Alright correct me if im wrong if your porting your cylinders they have to be ported for a 4 mill if they are already ported for a stock stroke bike you might need new cylinders. Go with the 4mill 5mm long rod like previously stated longevity of the motor and produces more power than a short rod. I also thought you didnt have to trench cylinders untill you got a 7 mill and up.

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I assume you are saying you want to use the pistons you already have if thats the case and they are 513 series pistons then the 4mill short rod is what will work. As far as your porting goes if its not too extreme especially high on the transfers then you would be allright you can just drop the floors to the new bdc position about 2mm lower but it would run without that. The shortrod will produce just as much power and rev a little harder then the longrod the longrod usually has a little broader curve. The longrod will reduce the rod angle helping with wear, from my experience they will both run fine and be dependable.

Edited by RILS
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the porting isnt that extreme mostly polished so if i go with a 4mm long rod..should i go with a stroker crank or just a regular ive seen both.another question is am i going to need a spacer plate or run a cool head or will it be fine just running stock jugs and head.

 

If you run a 4mm crank you will need to have the head or domes cut or run a spacer plate, the rod lenth has nothing to do with that. I would prefer cutting the head or domes but the plate will work. I have one if you need it. The rod lenth will determine what series piston you will run shortrod will run the 513 or whatever the #on the big bores are and the longrod crank will run 795series. As far as weather you should go with a 4mill crank or not is up to you if u are replacing the crank anyway then theres not a big reason not to stroke it if you have the funds to have the head cut the short rod would save you that much if you are going to reuse your pistons. All thats up to you. I will say the best way to do this is have the head or domes cut and have the jugs ported for the stroke to suit whatever riding you do. If you are taking out a good working crank to replace it with a 4mill then imo its not a big enough gain alone for the money, do it right and it will be a nice difference.

Edited by RILS
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Well my crank now dont have many hours on it its a hot rods stock stroke.when i bought the motor it had just been rebuilt 4 months ago. so is it worth it for me to go with the 4mm or would i not see much of a difference. if that is the case any suggestions for bang for my buck.I like racing other quads but i want it to be dependable.

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Well my crank now dont have many hours on it its a hot rods stock stroke.when i bought the motor it had just been rebuilt 4 months ago. so is it worth it for me to go with the 4mm or would i not see much of a difference. if that is the case any suggestions for bang for my buck.I like racing other quads but i want it to be dependable.

 

 

The 4mill alone I would say no. You have a good crank now. A port job will bring alot more then a crank. I ran a stk crank with a drag port and smoked quite a few stk cylinder 4mill bikes. If your into drag then a cub is where the moneys at.

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