stringbeanbowler Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 (edited) I MAY NEED A NEW CLUTCH. WHEN I FIRST TAKE OFF ON A COLD ENGINE, I PULL IN THE CLUTCH AND DROP IT INTO GEAR AND IT LUNGES FORWARD AND DIES UNDER LOW IDLE. I HAVE TO REV IT UP TO TAKE OFF ON THE FIRST RUN. AFTER IT WARMS UP IT'S FINE. ALSO, WHEN I HAVE IT IN GEAR WITH THE CLUTCH IN AND I REV IT UP IT SLIGHTLY LUNGES FORWARD ON A WARM ENGINE. IT IS ALSO HARD TO FIND NEUTRAL WITH IT RUNNING AND AT A COMPLETE STOP JUST AFTER RIDING. EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS FINE, NO POWER LOSS OR SLIPPING THAT I KNOW OF. IS THIS A SIGN OF NEEDING A NEW CLUTCH SOON? IF SO, WHAT IS A GOOD RELIABLE CLUTCH COMPANY FOR GENERAL RIDING? ALSO, HAVE YOU HEARD OF HAVING TO BUY A NEW CLUTCH IF YOU SWITCH BRANDS OF GEAR OIL? ANY INFO HERE WOULD HELP. I PLAN ON DOING THE WORK MYSELF. WHEN I WAS A YOUNG LAD MY DAD HELPED ME CHANGE THE CLUTCH IN A BLASTER, AND I AM MECHANICALLY INCLINED SO IT SHOULDN'T BE A PROBLEM. I HEARD IT ONLY TAKES 2 HOURS. THANKS IN ADVANCE. BEAN Edited November 28, 2009 by stringbeanbowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 it just sounds like youre clutch is out of adjustment to me. have you played with the adjustment screw on the clutch perch? loosen the jam nut and screw the adjuster OUT (counter clockwise). it sounds like your clutch is still grabbing. by adjusting that out it will allow your clutch to disengage far enough for it to quit gripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman81 Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 it just sounds like youre clutch is out of adjustment to me. have you played with the adjustment screw on the clutch perch? loosen the jam nut and screw the adjuster OUT (counter clockwise). it sounds like your clutch is still grabbing. by adjusting that out it will allow your clutch to disengage far enough for it to quit gripping. X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbeanbowler Posted November 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 it just sounds like youre clutch is out of adjustment to me. have you played with the adjustment screw on the clutch perch? loosen the jam nut and screw the adjuster OUT (counter clockwise). it sounds like your clutch is still grabbing. by adjusting that out it will allow your clutch to disengage far enough for it to quit gripping. THERE IS ABOUT 3/16TH OF AN INCH OF PLAY AT THE CLUTCH HANDLE. SHOULD THERE BE ZERO? THIS IS GOOD NEWS BY THE WAY. I'D RATHER NOT FIX SOMETHING THAT IS NOT BROKEN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 Please take the caps lock off.. this is a no shouting area... on the top of your case there is an arrow right by the clutch arm. on the clutch arm there is a point. when the clutch lever is pulled in the two should line up. If they don't and you can not adjust the perch to do so you have to pull the clutch cover and adjust the clutch at the basket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 Please take the caps lock off.. this is a no shouting area... on the top of your case there is an arrow right by the clutch arm. on the clutch arm there is a point. when the clutch lever is pulled in the two should line up. If they don't and you can not adjust the perch to do so you have to pull the clutch cover and adjust the clutch at the basket. This is not the correct way to do this. The correct way is to push the arm with your finger in the direction the cable pulls it. When it comes up tight the two arrows should line up, if they don't you need to pull the clutch cover and adjust the screw in the center of the pressure plate so they do. After adjusting the screw then you should adjust at the handlebar for 1/16 to 1/8 inch of free play. If you have the clutch cover off, you should inspect the clutch basket. clutch hub and pressure plate for wear and grooves. Grooves on the fingers of the basket or the splines of the clutch hub can prevent the clutch plates from seperating and cause the clutch to drag. The other thing to consider is the clutch push rod and ball inside the shaft that the clutch rides on- make sure the ball has not welded itself to the shaft. You should be able to pull the ball out with a magnet if it doesn't fall out on it's own. If you can't pull it out or if it comes out stuck to the rod that is behind it you will need to replace the ball and rod and get a pancake bearing to replace the adjuster screw in the pressure plate. The pancake bearing will prevent this from happening again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 This is all pretty normal. The plates become a little dry and stick when it sits. It is normal for them to do this when they are cold and dry. Besides you shouldnt be riding your banshee with a cold engine any way. That is a good way to mess the top end up. I have herd guys say that a groved basket will can cause this too. But where your's quits after it is warmed up then I would say it is normal. Mine does this too with a new Hindson Basket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbeanbowler Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 This is all pretty normal. The plates become a little dry and stick when it sits. It is normal for them to do this when they are cold and dry. Besides you shouldnt be riding your banshee with a cold engine any way. That is a good way to mess the top end up. I have herd guys say that a groved basket will can cause this too. But where your's quits after it is warmed up then I would say it is normal. Mine does this too with a new Hindson Basket. When I say cold, I mean I let it idle for a minute or two and then I take off and ride easy for a few. Thanks all for the info, I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 NEVER go by the clutch arm and arrow on the case. they are different in different motors. mine doesnt line up at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbeanbowler Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 it just sounds like youre clutch is out of adjustment to me. have you played with the adjustment screw on the clutch perch? loosen the jam nut and screw the adjuster OUT (counter clockwise). it sounds like your clutch is still grabbing. by adjusting that out it will allow your clutch to disengage far enough for it to quit gripping. I'll try this first. It's the easiest. Then I'll look around inside, and at the arrows and try to figure it out. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 When I say cold, I mean I let it idle for a minute or two and then I take off and ride easy for a few. Thanks all for the info, I appreciate it. If after 5 minutes of riding does it still do it? It does take a little while for the transmission oil to warm up. It doesnt circulate through the engine or crank case so it really doesnt warm up until your riding. Neutral can be hard to find. I have found it easiest to find Neutral when I rev it with the clutch pulled in and shift it in to Neutral as the RPM's are coming back down. What oil are you running in the transmission? What tempes are you riding in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 you should have about 1/8" play when you push on the case lever, untill you fell it stop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbeanbowler Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 If after 5 minutes of riding does it still do it? It does take a little while for the transmission oil to warm up. It doesnt circulate through the engine or crank case so it really doesnt warm up until your riding. Neutral can be hard to find. I have found it easiest to find Neutral when I rev it with the clutch pulled in and shift it in to Neutral as the RPM's are coming back down. What oil are you running in the transmission? What tempes are you riding in? I really haven't got to ride it much. I found a LOT of little things wrong with it that took me a while to fix or adjust. And, I just got a motorcycle, so I've been riding that on the nice days. After 5 minutes of riding, it doesn't jump forward and stall when I shift from neutral to first at low idle, but It does lunge forward with the clutch pulled in and in second gear when I rev it up. My friend that I bought it from said to find neutral before I come to a complete stop. I'll try your tip too. I just put AMSOIL 75W-90 synthetic in, and It was around 55 degrees when I rode. Now it's 40 degrees. The reason I thought I might need a new clutch is because my friend that I bought it from said it was going out. So, I just figured that's why it was lunging forward a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbeanbowler Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 you should have about 1/8" play when you push on the case lever, untill you fell it stop I vaguely remember seeing that case lever and I will definitely check it out. My garage is small and I have to store it standing up, so I have to drain the fuel from the tank and the carbs every time I finish riding. It's a big pain, but worth it to have a Banshee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 If this is the stuff that you put in your banshee then that is probably part of the problem. It also needs to be drained right away. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx This is a Hypoid Gear lube made for differentials in cars and trucks. It has aditives that will cause your clutch to slip. It is also way to thick and probably will make the jumping forward when cold even worse. I would flush it out a couple times with a cheap Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F. You can continue to run ATF type F or put an oil in it that is designed for 2 stroke transmissions. You can run a Synthetic 10w30 engine oil that is designed for wet clutches (pretty much any Motorcycle & ATV specific oil). You can also run 2 Stroke Transmission specific oils. They are a better option than a motorcycle engine oil. ATF type F is going to be the thinest and will need to be changed more frequently than 2 stroke tranmission oil. Here are some good 2 Stroke Transmission oils. I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 http://www.klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KL%2D506%5FQuart&cat=4 Bel Ray Gear Saver is also another good oil. It comes in 75W, 80W, and 85W. The Gear Saver 80W-90, and 75W-140 are Hypoid Gear Lubes and you dont want them. I would run the 75W if you go with Gear Saver. If you shake a bottle of 80W Gear saver and a bottle of 80W-90 Hypoid Gear lube the Hypoid oil is much thicker. The 80W Gear Saver Transmission oil is about like a quart of 10W30 engine oil. http://www.belray.com/consumer/product.fsp?pid=1336 josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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