00sheerzr Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 what is (2-4) i know there gears but what does it do, how do they work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 what is (2-4) i know there gears but what does it do, how do they work 2-4 are the gears that are back cut for the override. You would still have to clutch from 5th to 6th. Not sure what you are asking with "how do they work". Overrides work by back cutting the shift dogs on the gears, modifying the shifting drum and adding springs to apply lateral pressure to the shifting forks. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 If you were to buy a new override today, what would you get and where would you go for it? SP id prolly stick with the 2-4 or get a 2-5. at the hillclimbs i just dont need any more than that. cameron at redline racing cut the one i have now, but i would feel comfortable buying an override from any of the site sponsors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00sheerzr Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 im into trail riding so i dont think they would do me any good , i was just curious what they are thanks guys and im surprised how much you can learn from this site DAMN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 i read some foul shit about WCR. not sure id trust them. Greg and Paula have been nothing but great to me.. I had some issues with my trans about 2yrs after I bought it. Around the same time all the shit was going around. Sent it in.. Greg called me as soon as it showed up. Took a couple days and looked it over.. called me back with what he found and it was on its way back to me. He even threw in a added bonus and gave me the bearing mod to the shift drum and did a new cut on the star. I couldn't be happier with the way I've been treated by them thus far. Everyone is gonna have a horror story about someone in this industry.. I guess just take in all the info you can and make the best decision possible. Its by far the smoothest trans I've ridden so far.. Great trans.. I should be getting my drum back pretty quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul M Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 If you were to buy a new override today, what would you get and where would you go for it? SP WCR I also have heard a few bad things but my self I have had no problems with them and there trannys work flawless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Spurdy go with the 1-5 N down. Its the best one out for your application. I have one 1-N-(2-5)-6 and hate it. Its an old one I have had for 5 years. 1-5 N down lets you launch in 1st (much stronger and wont break like 2nd). Gives you a better range of gears and you will never need 6th out in the dunes. You run a different sprocket ratio for more top end out of 1st and 5th. You also never have to worry about hitting neutral when shifting 1st to 2nd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Limit Powersports Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 We have been selling the wcr trannies for about 4 years now and have had awesome luck with them. Yes they can be difficult to deal with thats why i suggest finding someone that has there stuff in stock like ourselves or jeff @ fast. We are only doing the extremes in stock at this point bc they are the best tranny available and thats what we like to stock, we can cut anything they offer just dont stock anything but the extreme. I do have 4 of them in stock all 1-5nD and all have the level 2 undercut on the pinions to make it really hold up to the power. The trannys are not meant to be down shifted under a load just nature of the cut but if you can get away with it more power to you. IMO the weak part to the stock banshee tranny is the countershaft then 2nd gear in that order. What happens with very high hp machines is that 1st gear is the farthest from the sprocket so a 1st gear start is the hardest on the counter shaft so with high hp machines i would recommend a 2-5 but with anything 110 (imo) and down 1-5 is the best option bc it gives you the most gearing options. All the duneables can be downshifted just fine thats not what the premature wear on the forks is from. The wear comes from back loading the tranny, in other words putting the power thru the tranny backwords (slowing down without pulling in the clutch). Now downshifting can have this affect as well because if you downshift say one gear and let out of the clutch you can back load the tranny. The extreme is a no rules tranny backload it, downshift it, basically ride it just like a stock one except for the full throttle clutchless upshifting. As far as neutral down goes if your going to do any duneing or trailriding i wouldnt recommend it bc its not as easy to find 1st as a neutral in the stock location. If your dragging ND is by far the only way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasJeff Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 We have been selling the wcr trannies for about 4 years now and have had awesome luck with them. Yes they can be difficult to deal with thats why i suggest finding someone that has there stuff in stock like ourselves or jeff @ fast. We are only doing the extremes in stock at this point bc they are the best tranny available and thats what we like to stock, we can cut anything they offer just dont stock anything but the extreme. I do have 4 of them in stock all 1-5nD and all have the level 2 undercut on the pinions to make it really hold up to the power. The trannys are not meant to be down shifted under a load just nature of the cut but if you can get away with it more power to you. IMO the weak part to the stock banshee tranny is the countershaft then 2nd gear in that order. What happens with very high hp machines is that 1st gear is the farthest from the sprocket so a 1st gear start is the hardest on the counter shaft so with high hp machines i would recommend a 2-5 but with anything 110 (imo) and down 1-5 is the best option bc it gives you the most gearing options. All the duneables can be downshifted just fine thats not what the premature wear on the forks is from. The wear comes from back loading the tranny, in other words putting the power thru the tranny backwords (slowing down without pulling in the clutch). Now downshifting can have this affect as well because if you downshift say one gear and let out of the clutch you can back load the tranny. The extreme is a no rules tranny backload it, downshift it, basically ride it just like a stock one except for the full throttle clutchless upshifting. As far as neutral down goes if your going to do any duneing or trailriding i wouldnt recommend it bc its not as easy to find 1st as a neutral in the stock location. If your dragging ND is by far the only way to go. very well put and thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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