locogato11283 Posted November 1, 2009 Report Share Posted November 1, 2009 I used to have a picture on my phone. They are pretty trick looking. They run about 2500 bucks. thats fuckin ridiculous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blewbyu Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Damn it would be a lot cheaper to join Jenny Craig and build a 10mill. Lol Just messin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandnational Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 (edited) I used to have a picture on my phone. They are pretty trick looking. They run about 2500 bucks. dan from a&s is selling one for 1450.. its a 1-5 billet trans... it was made by the robinson dude.. Edited November 3, 2009 by grandnational Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronakidd Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 thats a steal for a bille tranny used or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 dan from a&s is selling one for 1450.. its a 1-5 billet trans... it was made by the robinson dude.. 1-5's aren't full billets. They are a combination of stock and billet parts. I have seen a few explode so far. Heck of a deal, and would hold up great on a standard twin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 I have to be honest here, I'm a big guy too (250 lbs). I've been doing this a few years. IMO...you'd be absolutely crazy to just jump into a 3 second bike. I would build a 4 or 10 mil cub to start out. Learn to tune it. Learn to ride it. Learn to set it up. It will be a much cheaper experience...promise. And tuned right a 10 mil cub will get you into the LOW 4s. On a stock cut chassis mine takes me into 4.2's and I've been 4. teens on two tracks this year. No one just jumps to the top of the heap or food chain overnight...they learn through mistakes how to get there. There's the possibility you never get it tuned right, miss something, etc., and it scares you away or annoys the shit out of you to make you want to quit, as well... We've got a few people over here that have started, quit...are trying to get back in, etc., and it's because they don't have the patience...to be honest. I personally, would walk before I ran. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 bigboybanshee is probably close to your weight and he has run 3.8s I believe on his 10 mil DM. If not 3.8s I know for certain he has run low 3.9s. Yep, 3.89 @80mph is my best, several 3.90, 3.91's. I weigh in at a healthy 298lbs, LOL IMO, you should build a smaller bike, learn how to tune it and set it up for 300' drags, step up accordingly. Don't worry about a number right now, just focus on building a small drag bike and master tuning it. See how the bike reacts to certain changes, etc. There's a lot more to tuning than changing jets. Chassis setup, gearing, timing, tires, clutch spring pressure, lockup weight...it's endless. I've been strictly racing for 4, almost 5 years now and I'm still learning new things all the time. I just feel, that if you go into this with the mindset "I want a 3 second bike", then you're setting yourself up for disappointment, unless you know how to tune your bike to the track and have the HP and chassis to do it. If you DON'T know how to tune or maintain your bike, you'll be one of those that's tearing your bike apart after every couple races. (believe me, I know people that said I want to go "x" time, bought a bike that could run the number, but since they had no idea how to tune it, they blew it up almost every race). There are a lot of factors that have to be right for you to make a 3 second pass at your weight, unless you're running some gigantic engine, which will put you in the 10-15K range at least to get started (engine/chassis). Then you'll have a huge learning curve to pick up, really fast, or else you'll be replacing stuff as much as you ride it. I started with a 350 stock cylinder, then 4mil cub, then 10mil cub, and now 10mil DM. The knowledge I picked up from playing with the 350 carried over to the 4mil, and so on, and it made moving up in power easy because I knew what to expect, what to change, and how to get the results I was after... Some pics for your viewing pleasure, lol First bike - 350cc on gas Second build - 421 cub on gas Third build - 465 cub on alcohol Fourth build - 610 DM on alcohol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 I agree.. didn't seem like too many people liked this idea though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Yeah, and truth be told, a majority of the folks that have problems are the people that jump in head over heels and buy something they don't have a clue about...rather than start with the fundamentals and work their way up. Not trying to be an ass, just being honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlevasseur Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 In my opinion, if you are new to the drag racing scene I would find a builder ( a good builder with experience) Tell him what you are looking for and have him build it. You can learn so much from a builder with years of experience. You can always be involved but having someone to help you and guide you can be a life saver, and after some experience you could do it all your self but it takes a lot of time and patience. Jumping right into a drag bike project with limited experience with the expectation of a 3 sec run is setting you up for a dissappointment. But with a builder, that dream becomes closer to a reality. You can have a 3 sec motor but if not set up right you will never get there. A 10 mil billet twister or DM can get you in the 3's but thats fast and if its all new to you I to agree that you might want to start with a little smaller motor. And trust me, everyone on hear can tell you that it is an addiction and one expensive one. As a 295 lb rider is say good luck and have fun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confederate350 Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 (edited) I have to be honest here, I'm a big guy too (250 lbs). I've been doing this a few years. IMO...you'd be absolutely crazy to just jump into a 3 second bike. I would build a 4 or 10 mil cub to start out. Learn to tune it. Learn to ride it. Learn to set it up. It will be a much cheaper experience...promise. And tuned right a 10 mil cub will get you into the LOW 4s. On a stock cut chassis mine takes me into 4.2's and I've been 4. teens on two tracks this year. No one just jumps to the top of the heap or food chain overnight...they learn through mistakes how to get there. There's the possibility you never get it tuned right, miss something, etc., and it scares you away or annoys the shit out of you to make you want to quit, as well... We've got a few people over here that have started, quit...are trying to get back in, etc., and it's because they don't have the patience...to be honest. I personally, would walk before I ran. I would recommend reading this post a couple times! lol I've been drag racing for 5 years and I'm no pro, don't run the track, just race the hill in the dunes but you don't want to jump off the deep end right away, you'll learn your tuning ability and be able to get your big motor running harder in the long run after you've had a smaller motor or 2 first! Those DM and Cougar motors will empty the bank account and before ou do that you want to be 100% confident you can keep it dialed and running good every trip out......It takes time to be a good tuner and rider and you'll appreiciate it more if you wait until you've had a smaller motor! You definately nned to find a good engine builder who can give you some personal professional advice. I recommend Cameron from Redline Racing in Sweet Home, OR he is a really nice guy and stands behind his work. Not to mention he builds some extremely fast motors that stay together and he will give you great advice about motor choice and tuning! He built my first motor and He's still my builder of choice..... His number is 541-367-BIKE Good Luck with whatever you build and have fun! Edited November 23, 2009 by Confederate350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlevasseur Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 I would recommend reading this post a couple times! lol I've been drag racing for 5 years and I'm no pro, don't run the track, just race the hill in the dunes but you don't want to jump off the deep end right away, you'll learn your tuning ability and be able to get your big motor running harder in the long run after you've had a smaller motor or 2 first! Those DM and Cougar motors will empty the bank account and before ou do that you want to be 100% confident you can keep it dialed and running good every trip out......It takes time to be a good tuner and rider and you'll appreiciate it more if you wait until you've had a smaller motor! You definately nned to find a good engine builder who can give you some personal professional advice. I recommend Cameron from Redline Racing in Sweet Home, OR he is a really nice guy and stands behind his work. Not to mention he builds some extremely fast motors that stay together and he will give you great advice about motor choice and tuning! He built my first motor and He's still my builder of choice..... His number is 541-367-BIKE Good Luck with whatever you build and have fun! That makes two for Cam at Redline, great guy who know's what he is doing. Confederate350 couldn't have stated it any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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