PaddleShee Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Hey guys new here to HQ and drag banshees. Wanting to build my first 300ft drag bike. What would be a good motor to get me into the 3sec mark? I weight 275lbs. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawiking Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Hey guys new here to HQ and drag banshees. Wanting to build my first 300ft drag bike. What would be a good motor to get me into the 3sec mark? I weight 275lbs. Thanks! 10 mil dm , drag chassis ... or bigger . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 10 mil dm , drag chassis ... or bigger . what kind of budget are you working with? and unlimited budget: you can get into the 3's easy and very soon. a tight budget: much harder and your passes have to be perfect to hit them numbers every time. a 10mm dm or twister could get you into the 3's. on spray you can get to the 3's on a much smaller motor but less consistantly. drag chassis would be a must.. there are quite a few different bikes for sale that you could buy a whole bike running that should be up to the task.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddleShee Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 what kind of budget are you working with? and unlimited budget: you can get into the 3's easy and very soon. a tight budget: much harder and your passes have to be perfect to hit them numbers every time. a 10mm dm or twister could get you into the 3's. on spray you can get to the 3's on a much smaller motor but less consistantly. drag chassis would be a must.. there are quite a few different bikes for sale that you could buy a whole bike running that should be up to the task.. Its definately not an unlimited budget lol. I definately wanna get a ridgid frame with all light weight componets I.E spindle mounts, JJ&A aluminum axle etc.etc.etc...... I definatly dont just wanna buy a bike. Id rather build one from the ground up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawiking Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 a big motor will only get you so far ... set up , set up ,setup ... and practice. tou are lookin at alky carbs,overide tranny , lockup, pingel,fuel pump,billett bowls for carbs,oof drag pipes. cub motors are cheaper... super cubs ,dm's,dmx's all need major case work . 7 mil cubs and higher need the cases trenched for the crank. i have 7 k in my suspended drag chassis F.A.S.T. 4 mil cub -- 39pwk alky carbs, wcr 1-5 n-down overide, slingshot lockup ,cyln head dragported and cases ported by jeff at fast racing. lonestar dragaxle, dd spindle mount wheels. also have a whelie bar. whole bike wieghs around #240 lbs. a dm or dmx motor is goin to be $$$$$$$ , custom head and pipes with alot of case work. swingover to atvdragracers.com .. alot of good info on that site. pm KOOLGUYSON... sonny has some sick drag bikes . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 pm KOOLGUYSON... sonny has some sick drag bikes . Lol, thanks Rico. Your weight is the killer element here. 275 is not easy to move. A 10mm DM would probably get you there, but it may not like it. I would go a little bigger if it were me since cost at that point is similar with the only additional expense is crank. A 14mm DM is about as far as I would push a stock tranny too. Or you can buy my 18mm DMX and run 3.70's with you on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Or you can buy my 18mm DMX and run 3.70's with you on it got any pics of that beast? id like to see it run. what does a motor like that cost to build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 got any pics of that beast? id like to see it run. what does a motor like that cost to build? All the video's that I have of it are in 1080p HD format. Plus it takes a hell of a computer just to run it. I think I have a video where I was racing Dennis Packard over in Gilbert, LA last April. I'll see if I can find it. Expect to spend 15k top to bottom on an 18mm DMX done right... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawiking Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Lol, thanks Rico. just saying the truth ... dont get a big head, ur still a ass ,sonny..... lol !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I do think there is a learning curve.. To jump right into a big build like a DM or DMX with no experience.. is going to be a expensive way to learn from your mistakes. most people usually go through a few topends before they understand how to tune alky. I'd start with a 10mil cub and learn with that. A 10mil cub has the potential to run 4.1's and 4.0's with a heavy rider and parts are ALOT cheaper. I know.. probably not what you wanted to hear but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronakidd Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 you want to get into 3s at 275 run a 10mill or bigger build a 10 if you build a 12 you can build a 14 for same price if you build a 16 then you can build a 18 for the same amount give or take 2 or 3 hundred difference and 2 or 3 hundred difference is nothing when building a big motor also some strokes seem to be a magic combination 10 mills or 16 mills both run strong but a 18 mill d.m. run strong as hell my 18mill has beat alot of bigger bikes 24mill twisters and 24mill cougar cyl. 20-24mill bike run fast but 18mills can run with them pass after pass then you have the little 4mill D.M. that is a rocket ship which will get you into the 3s with just a 4mill stroke they run about 2tenths off the big bikes like 18-24 mill and i have seen the 4mill d.m. beat 10mills even a 10mill d.m. but your 275 you need a big motor to haul you wieght down the track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Sonny's bike definitely hauls ass. Just dont let him try his fuel injection again But he is right, 275 is alot of weight to push into the 3's. You could jump right into a big build. But if you spend that kind of money, stick with one builder from beginnig to end. From carbs to pipe, listen to your builder. You will find it much easier to tune that way. Hey punk! I ran a 3.70 with injection. That isn't bad, but it is a far cry from 40's I guess. Don't worry. I took all that junk off so you and I could race carbs vs. carbs at Avi. In all honesty, it costs about the same to blow a big motor up vs. a small motor. They all cost the same to replate, and pistons have all magically jumped into the 150 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Awe come on Sonny. Dont get mad....lol. AVI will be a blast. I hope I get to do some racing. Its still unclear if I will be piloting a bike yet. All of this dieting and it could be for nothing . Someones getting kicked in the nuts if that happens. And if he reads this, he knows i'm talking about him . Pretty small target. Better be a well placed kick. Well hopefully you can ride. It is a lot of fun out there. Hopefully that chassis they are running holds up this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 another good idea would be to tune in a bike on race fuel first, once you have that concept of the moves you make with the tuning for winter or summer. then the move to alcohol would be easier for you. the bigger motors than a 10 can be put into stock cases with alot of work to the cases or it can built very easily into billet cases and go as big as you want.. of course that adds a good bit of the cost.. a 4mm will drop into stock cases with no mods, the cubs will make about 112hp/63tq properly ported and tuned. the bigger motors will make more torque than that of course and with the rider weight of around 275 your going to need it the torque. like it was touched on, practice it will take cutting a great light alot of the time to make it down the track faster than a small rider/jockey on a smaller bike will be crucial. price out building a 10mm cheetah (not a dm or dmx) 74.5mm bore, they are strong motors that have been proven. ive got a 10mm mini twister and am yet to have a problem with them also. of course there is still the chassis set up, a full chassis would be a must. talking with a frame builder about this they should be able to build you a frame that is set up to support you safely and be light enough to make it worth your money. there are alot of builders that can do one or both services for you as well. they all are very good at what they do as well, most done even mind if its only to call for directions or advice on the whole build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 another good idea would be to tune in a bike on race fuel first, once you have that concept of the moves you make with the tuning for winter or summer. then the move to alcohol would be easier for you. This is a common misconception. Alcohol is actually much more forgiving than gasoline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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