dajogejr Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Changing out clutch basket/crank gears is no walk in the park. He'd be much better off to carry 2-3 different front and rear sprockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman81 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Here is the link to the gears. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&cat=CLUTCH/TRANSMISSION&offset=0 I'm a dumbass, i seen those i didn't even think what they were for. LOL Changing out clutch basket/crank gears is no walk in the park. He'd be much better off to carry 2-3 different front and rear sprockets. Yeah, i would be better off. That will only take a couple of minutes and the result should be almost the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 You're wasting your money on all of that. The RZ Drum has a roller bearing on the end. What Whitaker does to the drum is the same thing....for a banshee. The machines down the end and puts a roller bearing on it. Getting your stockers welded and cryo is a total waste of money IMO. Unless you're putting in a big pin rod or a longer than 115mm rod, there's no need to have them welded... You're getting an EZ shift cut, not an override...correct? The reason I want the rz drum modded is so I can get a bigger more smooth bearing on it, since the thing is 20 something years old its time to change any way and 15 more dollars of quality isn't too big a deal. As far as the cases go I'm not welding the seam all the way around, but the area where epoxy would normally go after trenching, and the crank will definitely have longer then 115 rods cuz it will be a 7-10 mill similar to loboboy's setup so I can flattrack and ice race. as for the cryo treatment the little added assurance is worth it cuz I'm not able to afford billit tranny and cases so I gotta do what I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 Gotcha... The most common 10 mil is the 115 rod small pin, in which case you don't need welding, but you already knew that. Be careful when you weld the cases, they can warp on you and that will screw up your sealing/mating surfaces. WCR makes a new "extreme dunable" which I haven't seen yet...but he's willing to warranty it for a year no matter what. He'll have to get your shift forks as well. For TT racing, that'd be the route I go.... In my opinion, once you get a properly cut tranny, you don't need the bearing on the end of the drum. If that drum was spinning around and round...I'd say go for it. But...it's not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Thanks daj... I appreciate the thoughts on the tranny, especially that super dunable. I think I'll throw in just a stock rz tranny this week on my big bore stock stroke bike just to see how it handles the ice cuz it will never see under 3rd or 4th depending on the lake I race. Just wanna see if it works out like the newer 450 dirt bikes, 4th on a straight 3rd in turn, Maybe. just wanna see how it works out and if it is bunk I'll throw the stocker in before actually racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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