-=:RaMMeR:=- Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Hey Guys - I've read the other posts regarding shifting issues but mines slightly different. My banshee starts up just fine but will not shift into any gear. Clutch in/out, will not shift. The shift lever is giving me some resistance like something is in the way. Even when it finally feels like its in gear, letting out the clutch will not get the bike movin. Any advice as to what to look for would be appreciated. I've never taken apart the engine but and perfectly comfortable doing so, just need to know what to look for. Other posts reference the shift-shaft, shift-star, shift-fork. What do these things look like when they're damaged? Pictures are worth a million words, please post them if you have 'em! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Hey Guys - I've read the other posts regarding shifting issues but mines slightly different. My banshee starts up just fine but will not shift into any gear. Clutch in/out, will not shift. The shift lever is giving me some resistance like something is in the way. Even when it finally feels like its in gear, letting out the clutch will not get the bike movin. Any advice as to what to look for would be appreciated. I've never taken apart the engine but and perfectly comfortable doing so, just need to know what to look for. Other posts reference the shift-shaft, shift-star, shift-fork. What do these things look like when they're damaged? Pictures are worth a million words, please post them if you have 'em! Likely that the shift shaft claw has jumped off the shift star. Very common issue. We also developed a fix for it but you may also be able to adjust a few things to get it to stay on better. The shifter will typically not return with a spring like feel if this is your issue. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-billet-shift-star-431 Brandon Mull Engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 Likely that the shift shaft claw has jumped off the shift star. Very common issue. We also developed a fix for it but you may also be able to adjust a few things to get it to stay on better. The shifter will typically not return with a spring like feel if this is your issue. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-billet-shift-star-431 Brandon sounds right on.. But the best thing to do before you go and order parts is to pull the side cover off and check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-=:RaMMeR:=- Posted November 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 Well we decided to go deep with this issue. Pulled the engine, split the case to get a good look at everything. sadly I dont know what exactly Im looking for, I can figure out if a broken part needs replacing if its obvious, but I might need your guys' help here. First thing I noticed after pulling it all apart is that shifting the gears was not very smooth all the way through. went through most of the gears just fine but got to 5/6 and it seemed the front fork bound a bit on the drum. Wondering if this is not an issue when the tranny is under power. Also, should the front and rear gears turn together without feeling like they bind? Seems I get to certain point and they will not spin together. Is there a chance that one of the front gears is not sliding to engage/disengage? Thanks to all in advance, I've never worked on bikes and have little knowledge of how these trannys work. would be great if there was a good explanation of how it should all work I've got a running blog here: http://banshee-blues.blogspot.com -=:RaMMeR:=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 I really think you need to have an experienced engine guy look at it. It is normal to experience some binding when trying to test on a bench because this is a constant mesh sequential transmission. They need to be running and rolling to shift good. To be honest myself as well as many other professional builder may have been able to figure out what you had without opening the cases. At least now you will know what you have. I have seen cracked gears on a few bikes and it takes a seasoned eye to find things like that. I am not sure where you are at but if you want ot come see me in KS, I would be more than happy to find your problem for free. There are probably other builders here that can help you but you need to get this to a pro or you might be pulling your hair out trying to find the prob. Mull Engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-=:RaMMeR:=- Posted November 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Blowit - you might be right, but just letting someone else fix it for you takes the fun out of it. I'm in San Diego, I appreciate the offer to help. I did decide to pull in some expertise. I'm lucky to have a friend who works on engines day in/out. Brought the engine over to him last night and he pulled the gears off the main shaft, found one of the gears had seized onto the shaft which took some serious cranking on the hydraulic press before it popped loose. Anyway, bad news is the gear is junk and so is the main shaft. Worse news is that he also pointed out that one of my rods was discolored and might be on its way out. Time to go shopping, I'll need: - 5th Pinion Gear $ - Seals $ - Main Shaft $$ - Crank $$$ Here's pics of the damage: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Yep, that gear sticks to the shaft commonly and the new part you get will have a better designed bearing on it because of all the problems with that gear. Failure mode is lack of lubrication. Might post a pic of the rod. I have seen many that discolor and run for years. Do your inspections and determine if it is in spec and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-=:RaMMeR:=- Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Yep, that gear sticks to the shaft commonly and the new part you get will have a better designed bearing on it because of all the problems with that gear. Failure mode is lack of lubrication. Might post a pic of the rod. I have seen many that discolor and run for years. Do your inspections and determine if it is in spec and go from there. Here's pics of the rods/crank and one piston. :Rod 1: - - :Rod 2: - - :Piston 1: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 (edited) That discoloration does not appear to be a sign of rod failure from where I am sitting. actually looks like a factory blemish in the finishing process. Localized heating in that type of alloy should have a rainbow look to it. If you can scratch through it with a piece of carbide, that would prove a blemish. Either way, I would not be replacing the crank on that alone. Brandon Edited November 13, 2009 by blowit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-=:RaMMeR:=- Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 That discoloration does not appear to be a sign of rod failure from where I am sitting. actually looks like a factory blemish in the finishing process. Localized heating in that type of alloy should have a rainbow look to it. If you can scratch through it with a piece of carbide, that would prove a blemish. Either way, I would not be replacing the crank on that alone. Brandon You're looking at the first set of pics right? (Rod 1) What do you think of the bearing discoloration as well? The bearing really does look that dark vs. the nice shiny silver color of the other rod. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 You're looking at the first set of pics right? (Rod 1) What do you think of the bearing discoloration as well? The bearing really does look that dark vs. the nice shiny silver color of the other rod. Thanks for the info! That is a hard call with only a pic but I would do some good cleaning with brake cleaner and check tolerances. Side to side movement, thrust washer clearance, etc. It looks more to be like old oil that has cooked on from sitting for a length of time but again, that is a tough call over the Inet. If you are not comfortable with it, replace it. You could also run it and keep an eat on it for a while.. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 Last time I lost a crank it cost me about $700 to repair the damage- I had the crank rebuilt by Twister, bored the cylinders, new pistons,rings and bearings, and had to have the head cut and rechambered to repair the damage to the combustion chamber. Plus I ate a ton of sand towing it in and had to sit around camp for the rest of the riding trip. My point is that you are in to it now and I think you will be ahead to fix EVERYTHING now while you are into it and then you will have a reliable ride in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 actually, what it looks like to me, is that some of that paint that has been flaking off your intake got balled up in the case and smeared on the rod. it'ds the little black specs all over your crank. as stated, i would just check out all your clearances. a little heat could of been expected from the friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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