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flywheel lapping


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put some lapping compound on the inside of the flywheel hub, or the crank stub. Then work the flywheel side to side on it. Rotate it gradually around as you go. Your done when the crank end is smoothed out, and the motion doesn't feel very gritty anymore.

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the surfaces can get worn and glazed, and develop some imperfections that make it hard or imposible to seat the flywheel on the taper completely, or square. also if your flywheel comes loose. if you don't seat it good it can start sheering keys. if you're ever in a pinch, and hve enough tooling, you can clean it up with a file/emery cloth and heat-seat the flywheel. had to do this out camping this summer. only problem is when you need to remove it.....

 

think i remember it coming up as part of a flywheel key discussion, but don't totally remember it for sure. my method is to use the nut tightened down with a flat washer, then backed off just enough to spin the flywheel. don't go too crazy, or you can make a ridge on the shaft that will keep the flywheel from seating all the way, too. apply a little rocking pressure as you rotate it.

either way works. you're just trying to get an even grip on the shaft

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well i usually pack a good toolkit, which happened to include a couple microtorches, files, picks, and other stuff i used, but i heated the center of the flywheel to expand the bore, and installed it on the cool crank when it was ready. only need about 200 degrees to make a kung-foo grip. rode another 10+hrs before going home.

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