flyRTby Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) Mods include.. Toomey t6's, Pod filters, Adjustable timing plate. I live in Michigan, and i believe our evalation is between 900-1200. It's not finished YET. But since the last time i talked to the tuner, he told me i was at 45 HP with -2 timing and a 300 or 310 main, 30 pilot. He has a air fuel meter that measures how rich or lean i am at idle, or WOT to get my jetting perfect. I'm pretty excited but at the same time.. hopefully all goes smooth. Just wondering if this is above or below average as far as HP and potential reliability goes. Also seems to be pretty obvious that everyone is running +4 timing. But are those of you that are running +4 taking your bike to the dyno? I'll be going over there tonight to watch him finish it up.. will post final results and try to get some videos as well.. Thanks for the input Edited October 2, 2009 by flyRTby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyRTby Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 i forgot to mention im running race fuel. i believe its 110 octane.. i got it right outside the silver lake sand dunes @ david and allen racing. torx or torques fuel.. i'm drawing a blank. Wanted some input on the race fuel as well.. if its safe to run or if the bike needs to be set up for it. thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 I know i read some where that too much unnecessary octane can hurt hp numbers. I'm pretty sure the cut off for regular 93 octane gas is when your compression reaches around 160 so if your compression isn't above 160 you don't need to run race fuel. Just a waste of money and octane and even power. Do you have an aftermarket head with domes? or stock head? or even a stock head that has been milled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valin Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Why again are you running race fuel? If you do not require race fuel, then do not run race fuel. It will richen up your mixture quite a bit, and you won't fully burn it. The only reason to run higher octane race fuel is to prevent detonation in your motor from heat. There are 3 things that cause heat in your motor, resulting in detonation........compression, timing, and stinger diameter. Those pipes will not cause your motor to detonate. +4 timing is not too much timing, so unless you're running a huge compression ratio, get rid of it. Tune the bike on the fuel you are going to run. Most people always think that just running race fuel will make them build more power. That is total BS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyRTby Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Valin, I ran the race fuel as a one time thing. i understand the concept of octane. the higher you go the less volotile the fuel becomes. I'd never run higher octane in any of my cars. mid-grade is prime depending on compression, weather and so on. but obviously that's a 4 stroke.. here, were dealing with 2-strokes. doh! obviously i dont know as much about these bad boys as i do the 4 stroke engines's.. come to find out some of the same rules apply to 4 and 2 strokes.i definitely went against my better judgment on this one.. but what the hell. lesson learned. i'll go back to 93. my main concern was the -2 timing. NO one here seems to run a (-) timing.. if same rules apply again.. i'd think a -2 timing would reduce my chances of blowing a hole in my piston.. but at the loss of "how much" performance. I dont tune. thats why someone else is doing it. i figured i could find a few wiz kids on here that could help me out. with a hell ya or a hell no. kodie, To the best of my knowlage the bike has a stock head with stock domes. the only thing missing, and i quote a friend..cause i dont quite understand what hes talking about is... "the little tabs that are commonly taken off when the head is removed". when i first heard this i assumed it was milled.. he seems to think not. ill be going there tonight and wathcing the whole tune go down first hand.. so ill be sure to update on the results.. thats for the input again fellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 let me put it @ you like this- the stock timing curve ranges from +17 and down to, i think, +9. so, you're not actually runing a - setting, just less than stock advancement. and, not many talk about the - timing as much as the advanced timing, but it actually helps with power in the topend, but most people want an increase in the midrange, which is where the advanced timing comes into play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyRTby Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 i had a feeling there was a "base" timing and you advance or retard from there... thanks for clearing that up. that makes much more sense. like i said.. if i knew what i was doing obviously i wouldn't be here asking questions. i appreciate the lesson for the day fellas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokestack Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Any update to the dyno? Been waiting to hear how it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toomey Banshee Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 The easiest way to determine if you need to run race fuel is to check your compression. On our red 99 which is stock except for your common bolt ons, i.e. cool head with 20's, t-5's, and v-force the compression is right about 180lbs. We've run super from the pump for the last 4 seasons with absolutely 0 problems. I'm just gonna do the top end this fall and advance the timing and a few other little things wheras next season we're probably gonna run 3 gallons of race and 2 gallons of super @ 40:1 with yama-lube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valin Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 Cranking compression has nothing to do with the amount of octane you require to run to prevent detonation. Compression ratio is the only thing you need to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyRTby Posted October 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 will post videos, pictures and results later! This shit is wayyy too cool! i want a effin dyno! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 i too, ran 20 cc's on stock timing/porting with a squish of .050" squish and .020" bore. can't remember the cr, since it's on my broken laptop along with the cylinder specs. but, i ran 90 oct without problems untill i switched to 95oct when i bumped timing to +5.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakar Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 ho do u find/ figure out your compression ratio ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkeypuncher Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 i too, ran 20 cc's on stock timing/porting with a squish of .050" squish and .020" bore. can't remember the cr, since it's on my broken laptop along with the cylinder specs. but, i ran 90 oct without problems untill i switched to 95oct when i bumped timing to +5.5 how did you get + 5.5 timing? i didnt know you could advance it in halfs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 how did you get + 5.5 timing? i didnt know you could advance it in halfs? I have mine at +5.5 also. Just set it between #'s 5-6 that = 5.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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