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Help... running hot, is this to be expected?


stokes77

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Hey guys, my Shee keeps getting up into the 230's fairly easy. A lot of my riding is on slower/tight trails not getting past 3rd gear but after riding around for about 15 minutes it gets pretty hot.

 

I only know this with one of those Factory FX stickers on the side of the head, so I don't know how reliable that is, but I can definitely feel a difference in the seat of the pants once it starts running hot.

 

The bike has FMF SST's, Coolhead with 21cc domes, Uni air filter, Airbox Lid on, +4 timing, Boyesen Power Reeds, Pro Design Impeller, 2 inline Rad Hose coolers, 145psi. Elevation is about 2500ft, main jets 290, pilots 25, and needle clip at 2nd from the top. The jetting seems to be spot on, pulls hard through entire power band. Did a plug chop with the 290's and it came back good.

 

Is getting that hot so easily going to be normal for the type of riding that I do? It really is a PITA having to shut it down to cool all the time while all of my buddies can still ride around all day with no issues.

 

Is there anyway that I can check the impeller to make sure it is flowing as much as it should? I just changed out the plastic gear when I did the impeller so I know that is good.

 

I also was thinking that I could be running lean, even though the plug chop says otherwise and it runs great. How does my jetting look? I did a leakdown a when I rebuilt the motor and it came back good too, so I'm confident there isn't any sort of air leaks.

 

What else can I do to bring the temp's down?

 

Sorry for the long post, and any help/suggestions is appreciated!

 

Thanks

 

-Mark

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Stock carbs are not my forte so I can't really give you an idea on your jetting, but if you still running a stock impeller doing hard trail riding I'd invest in a billet one for piece of mind. Hows your overflow tube look? Are you puking any fluid out? Most likely anyone in here will say that an aftermarket rad and/or impeller is just covering up a problem, so I hope someone who rides more trails can chime in and give you a baseline temperature reading.

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Stock carbs are not my forte so I can't really give you an idea on your jetting, but if you still running a stock impeller doing hard trail riding I'd invest in a billet one for piece of mind. Hows your overflow tube look? Are you puking any fluid out? Most likely anyone in here will say that an aftermarket rad and/or impeller is just covering up a problem, so I hope someone who rides more trails can chime in and give you a baseline temperature reading.

 

I've got a Pro Design billet impeller. I haven't been puking any coolant out, but I constantly check the temp and shut it down before I think it would be getting to that point. I had the overflow filled up a few weeks ago and its empty now, but I think that is due to it just leaking out of the breather though, I cut it off a few inches from the bottle and just turned it down.

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I had the needle in the middle clip but I found that I had aa hesitation right around the 1/4 throttle range. Also running water wetter but only like 3 capfulls, i think that's what it said to put it on the back of the bottle. Radiator is a little beat up, but nothing that should make that big of a difference and I make sure it stays clean, just had the whole thing off and flushed it out completely. I didn't do any of the coolant passages anywhere though.

 

When the bike is running, should I be able to see the coolant flowing with the cap off?

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Do you have an aftermarket grille that covers up your radiator more than it should?

 

Yeah I do, here is a pic of it, think this one would do it? I'll hafta try running this weekend without it, see how I do...

 

MayLong09011-5.jpg

 

MayLong09053-2.jpg

Edited by stokes77
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Yeah I do, here is a pic of it, think this one would do it? I'll hafta try running this weekend without it, see how I do...

 

I would say that is part of your problem. Yea the grills look good but they dont allow for air flow. Your going to run hot if your not moving air over the radiator.

 

I dont think those stick on stickers are all that accurate. If it is accuate then chances are the water temp coming out of the head is a lot hotter than 230. You need to get an inline water temp gauge. ESR makes a nice one. It is billit aluminum and comes with a liquid filled gauge so vibration doesnt destroy it.

 

Here is the one on my raptor. You need to put it in the hose that runs from the head to the top of the radiator. You could install one so you could read it through the holes in the gas tank cover.

100_2266.jpg

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