banshee_phil Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 hi there, im new so please bear with me... i recently destroyed my left cylinder. chances are it was my own fault bc the carbs were not set the same and i had constant problems bc i didnt really know how to set them the same...anyways long story short i ruined the left cylinder sleeve. i took both cylinders to a machine shop, the left one could not be bored out. so it was re-sleeved. now here is my problem... the new sleve is roughly 1/4 inch thick whereas the stock sleeve (right cylinder) is about an 1/8 inch (or probably less). i am wondering if i should take the cylinder back. the reason being is that the machine shop machined the inside diameter of the cylinder to get the new thicker sleeve to fit (instead of machining the outside of the new sleeve). now there is less than an 1/8 inch of aluminum between the head studs and the sleeve. i am afraid of two things 1) the studs will pull out 2) the different thicknesses of sleeves will cause one piston to lock up in the sleeve. the reason i think i might pull head studs is bc i have a 5mm crank and 4mm pistons that i am putting in the motor. i am afraid the compression will be too high for the left cylinder because of the distance (or lack there of) between the stud and sleeve. i am taking the cylinders back to the machine shop this friday and demand that they either garantee (for like 90 days) that the pisons wont lock up and i wont pull studs...or...demand that they re-sleeve the right cylinder so that the two are the same and still garantee that i wont pull head studs. im just not sure what i should do at this point...i have a lot of money in this motor and i shouldnt have crappy machine work for what i have paid what are your suggestions??? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HelmanRacingEngines Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Your cylinder sounds correct by what your saying it looks like. The one you had sleeved is going to be bigger on the top that's the counter bore. The stock sleeve is casted in the cylinder where the new one uses the counter bore to keep it from falling down your cylinder. If the shop had cut that off there would have been nothing to hold it in place. Your studs should be ok if you put a big bore sleeve in the counter bore will touch the studs and and they work ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee_phil Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Your cylinder sounds correct by what your saying it looks like. The one you had sleeved is going to be bigger on the top that's the counter bore. The stock sleeve is casted in the cylinder where the new one uses the counter bore to keep it from falling down your cylinder. If the shop had cut that off there would have been nothing to hold it in place. Your studs should be ok if you put a big bore sleeve in the counter bore will touch the studs and and they work ok. ok what you are telling me makes me feel better. my main question is whether or not the different sleeve thicknesses will cause the cylinders to run at different temps therefore causing the stock (thin sleeve) to overheat and seize the piston in the sleeve or not? if you think they will run same temp and that the stroker motor wont pull the studs then i will try running it. otherwise i think i should have the machine shop re-sleeve the right side (stock) so that the two are the same thicknesses (thicker). thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 If it were mine i would have gotten both done,its allways nice to have a fresh start,if the machine shop was good no worries about ripping the studs out,it also sounds like they did it rite.I would have given him the pistons with the sleeve so you dont have to pay twice,around here bore/hone is included with sleeve job.I have also seen mismatched motors that ran for years its just not prime condotions.Also sleeving is expensive I dont know how much you can demand them to do anything,if you came into my shop demanding shit I would tell you to kick rocks,especially if I did the rite job that you asked for.You could have bought used cylinders for that money stock bore and the whole business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee_phil Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 If it were mine i would have gotten both done,its allways nice to have a fresh start,if the machine shop was good no worries about ripping the studs out,it also sounds like they did it rite.I would have given him the pistons with the sleeve so you dont have to pay twice,around here bore/hone is included with sleeve job.I have also seen mismatched motors that ran for years its just not prime condotions.Also sleeving is expensive I dont know how much you can demand them to do anything,if you came into my shop demanding shit I would tell you to kick rocks,especially if I did the rite job that you asked for.You could have bought used cylinders for that money stock bore and the whole business well here's the thing. i took in both cylinders. they said they would bore out the left cylinder to clean it up and then match up pistons for it and bore the right cylinder to match. well they couldnt get the cylinder cleaned up so they re-sleeved the left cylinder without telling me. which increased my price. i bought all my parts through this "performance machine shop"...hot rods 5mm long rod rotating assembly, pistons, gaskets, and spacer plate (and also a new sleeve apparently). i know i could have gotten a used cylinder cheaper (trust me). and i would have had the shop not just went ahead and re-sleeved it. here is a question for you...if i had all this work and spent over $1300 at your shop and i put the motor back together and say it runs a few weeks or a month and either detonates the right cylinder, or pulls left cylinder studs what would you say to me??? because that is my option. go back and demand to have the right side re-sleeved (sleeve costs $112) or run it and hope nothing bad happens. this is not a race bike but im not dumping over $1300 in a motor only to redo it again a month later when a piston melts in the cylinder. i appriciate your opinion. and i too would tell someone to kick rocks if i had a shop and they did that to me....but i also would not have re-sleeved a cylinder w/out approval from the owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee_phil Posted September 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) new sleeve on top, stock on bottom does this look correct or does something look wrong? dont mind the missing stud. i took that out to show the space between the stud and the sleeve Edited September 2, 2009 by banshee_phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 new sleeve on top, stock on bottom does this look correct or does something look wrong? don't mind the missing stud. i took that out to show the space between the stud and the sleeve It looks like the sleeves I had installed in a pair of cylinders that I had re-sleeved. The bore started out at 64mm standard bore, and went all the way up to 68mm bore. I had them punched out to 66mm right off the bat and ran 66mm Blaster pistons with my Hot Rods 4mill long rod crank. Does the cylinder that was re-sleeved still have aluminum against the sleeve like in my last picture. a lot of people knock big bore sleeves claiming they choke the transfer ports down. I am sure the big sleeves that go clear out and in to the cylinder head studs could (72mm Bore). I don't see how mine could because the sleeves didn't even go in to the transfer ports because there is still aluminum in them. Before After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HelmanRacingEngines Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 ok what you are telling me makes me feel better. my main question is whether or not the different sleeve thicknesses will cause the cylinders to run at different temps therefore causing the stock (thin sleeve) to overheat and seize the piston in the sleeve or not? if you think they will run same temp and that the stroker motor wont pull the studs then i will try running it. otherwise i think i should have the machine shop re-sleeve the right side (stock) so that the two are the same thicknesses (thicker). thanks The new sleeve is not as thick as the top is the whole way down. If it was a stock bore sleeve it you don't eaven cut all the original sleeve out. My trail bike has one sleeved cyl and the other stock and no heating problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee_phil Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 jbooker82, my cylinder looks identical to your pics. except for the last pic. when looking at the bottom of mine, there is a gap between the cylinder and the sleeve. if looking at your pic, my gap would be on the left and on the right side of the pic (intake and exhaust side of cylinder). im not sure if that is ok to have or not. i know the sleve is tapered (top is thicker than bottom). but it sounds like from everyone's opinion i should just run the cylinder and i shouldnt have heating problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.